How do you stop and prevent needle cast

Poor trees.

You might as well go full ham and destroy the entire wordly mycorrhiza network.

Because the trees are planning their defense.

Go trees, Humanicide!

Sorce
It depends upon the fungicide.

when I repot, I find lots of mychorrazzae in the soil.

I have, in the past, had trees die due to needlecast.

Sorce, since you don’t work with JBP, you shouldn’t be advising others on how to manage them.
 
I currently have a mugo pine and two black pines the second one I just bought and they all seem to have a touch of needle cast how do you prevent this what can I do. And they are all outside. Being outside seems to have helped but I still see signs of it also on my bald cypress and my giant sequioa any help would be appreciated thanks
You say keeping them outside seems to have helped . Does that mean you previously kept them indoors? If so its no wonder your pines have had issues with disease like symptoms! Can you post photos so we can see what the actual symptoms are before everyone jumps to conclusions and tries to prescribe you all kinds of wonder- cures!!
 
Nope, but since winter is knocking at the door I might have a go at small scale production of spores so that everyone can enjoy it.
Is 2-3 euros per 1.5L of spraying solution too much to ask? That's 12 euros a year for full coverage of 40-100 trees. I'm terrible at these kind of estimates.

If you produce some and can send it internationally (UK) I would most likely buy some.
For reference on the pricing, this might be worth a look if you don't already know of it - different product but also small-batch production. https://www.probiocarbon.ie/shop-all-products?store-page=Danu-p217399241
 
If you produce some and can send it internationally (UK) I would most likely buy some.
For reference on the pricing, this might be worth a look if you don't already know of it - different product but also small-batch production. https://www.probiocarbon.ie/shop-all-products?store-page=Danu-p217399241
I can always ship it as a free sample and see if we can get it through customs. If you're willing to cover the costs of mailing.
I'm just scoping right now to see if it's economically viable for me to start reproducing spores and on what scale.
Not sure yet if it's worth all of the work and materials. The culturing is a breeze, the storage, handling and packaging are going to be my main concern. Time for a good brainstorm!
But knowing these guys charge 20 euros for a single application makes me think I should stick with the 3-4 euros for a final product.

Thanks for the link and the interest! I appreciate it.
 
You say keeping them outside seems to have helped . Does that mean you previously kept them indoors? If so its no wonder your pines have had issues with disease like symptoms! Can you post photos so we can see what the actual symptoms are before everyone jumps to conclusions and tries to prescribe you all kinds of wonder- cures!!
You’re absolutely right. I thought the same thing yesterday when I read that part
about keeping them outdoors now, and wandered if the BC are being kept indoors.
 
I moved all my deciduous outside, I have a few tropicals that seem to do good indoors. I have my balcony full of my deciduous trees now. They are all looking greener and better! I also took off all the cast and does not appear to be any more thank God!!
 
I also took off all the cast and does not appear to be any more thank God!!
This is incorrect. It is still in the tissues of the plant, it is airborne, it WILL manifest itself worse each year if not treated
systemically and proactively. Still ...no pics
Can you post photos so we can see what the actual symptoms are before everyone jumps to conclusions and tries to prescribe you all kinds of wonder- cures!!
This is great advice, but all replies prior, were based on assuming you knew what you were dealing with.
Pines inside beg to differ with that assumption.
 
@roberthu its not the same chemical. Infuse liquid is propiconazole. The chemical name for the infuse granular product is Thiophanate methyl, sometimes Thiomyl, and the same ingredient as in Cleary 3336.
 
@roberthu its not the same chemical. Infuse liquid is propiconazole. The chemical name for the infuse granular product is Thiophanate methyl, sometimes Thiomyl, and the same ingredient as in Cleary 3336.
Got it. Thanks so much!
 
Alternate spraying with copper fungicide and Daconil. Also, treat the soil with Bonide Infuse Granular Fungicide. Avoid watering the foliage, especially at night.
Do you treat weekly or monthly?
 
Do you treat weekly or monthly?
Adair hasn’t posted here in a while. I treat prophylacticly about every 4-6 weeks from March to November. There are key times to watch: as needles are maturing, when humidity is high, and when the trees begin to get dense. I use Mancozeb, as clearly’s granular tends to clog the soil, and I found Daconil seems to stunt growth.
 
Adair hasn’t posted here in a while. I treat prophylacticly about every 4-6 weeks from March to November. There are key times to watch: as needles are maturing, when humidity is high, and when the trees begin to get dense. I use Mancozeb, as clearly’s granular tends to clog the soil, and I found Daconil seems to stunt growth.
Thanks. I have needle cast now. I think the person I just got the ponderosa from kept it to wet. We also just had a ton of rain here in Massachusetts
 
Following this threads advice I got a bag of infuse granules to treat a JPB I recently purchased. I treated it with Daconil last week when I received it and saw how bad the needle cast is. If you zoom in on the photo it is pretty bad and must have been overhead watered. How much infuse do you normally use on pre-bonsai? And how long should I wait to put on the granular since I just treated last week?
 

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Following this threads advice I got a bag of infuse granules to treat a JPB I recently purchased. I treated it with Daconil last week when I received it and saw how bad the needle cast is. If you zoom in on the photo it is pretty bad and must have been overhead watered. How much infuse do you normally use on pre-bonsai? And how long should I wait to put on the granular since I just treated last week?
For that size of container would use 1/2 teaspoon of granular. distribute evenly on the surface and it will gradually dissolve with regular watering and be taken in by the roots acting systemically. You can apply it now.
 
Following this threads advice I got a bag of infuse granules to treat a JPB I recently purchased. I treated it with Daconil last week when I received it and saw how bad the needle cast is. If you zoom in on the photo it is pretty bad and must have been overhead watered. How much infuse do you normally use on pre-bonsai? And how long should I wait to put on the granular since I just treated last week?
From what I see, Bonide infuse granules do not control needle cast.

FROM GOOGLE: "No, Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease granules do not control needle cast. While Bonide Infuse is labeled for some conifer diseases, it is not effective against needle cast, a common disease affecting blue spruce tree and some pines." U You will need to find something that lists needle cast as one of problems it takes care of like Daconil and some others.
 
From what I see, Bonide infuse granules do not control needle cast.

FROM GOOGLE: "No, Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease granules do not control needle cast. While Bonide Infuse is labeled for some conifer diseases, it is not effective against needle cast, a common disease affecting blue spruce tree and some pines." U You will need to find something that lists needle cast as one of problems it takes care of like Daconil and some others.
From actual experience it does, even though it is not listed. AI is wonderful except when it is not.
 
From actual experience it does, even though it is not listed. AI is wonderful except when it is not.
That doesn't surprise me. I have had some strange answers and suggestions from Bonide in the past and have always wondered who was running what back there.

Another article said:
Fungicides containing chlorothalonil or copper are effective in preventing and controlling needle cast diseases. Specifically, chlorothalonil is labeled for both needle cast diseases and can be applied 2 months after bud break, with treatments usually starting at bud break and repeating monthly, according to Watonwan County, MN. Copper-based fungicides, such as Bordeaux mixture, are also recommended, especially for Rhizosphaera needle cast. Does "Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease granules" have either one of those chemicals?
 
That doesn't surprise me. I have had some strange answers and suggestions from Bonide in the past and have always wondered who was running what back there.

Another article said:
Fungicides containing chlorothalonil or copper are effective in preventing and controlling needle cast diseases. Specifically, chlorothalonil is labeled for both needle cast diseases and can be applied 2 months after bud break, with treatments usually starting at bud break and repeating monthly, according to Watonwan County, MN. Copper-based fungicides, such as Bordeaux mixture, are also recommended, especially for Rhizosphaera needle cast. Does "Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease granules" have either one of those chemicals?
Definitely something you can check on the internet. Copper based fungicides are somewhat effective as contact treatment not considered systemics. The active ingredient in Bonide Infuse depends on which of their products you purchase? The one that I have used successfully is pictured below. They make several formulae in different packages with slightly different names and marketed for different purposes. This product contains thiophonate-methyl, Daconil contains Chlorothalonil. The Bayer is a useful systemic for borers.IMG_1165.JPG
 
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