Heirloom white pine, need advice for windswept styling

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TL;DR (see below for full backstory): I want to give this Pine a slightly more windswept style, because I find the current form somewhat unnatural, so I'm thinking of removing some of the branches on the right, only keeping what's growing with the wind (right to left) and possibly grafting one of the removed branches onto that long bare section of trunk above the graft to interrupt that long taperless line. So my question is would that be enough, is there more I could do to support this windswept style, or is it even just a bad idea basically removing half of the current pyramidal shape?

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So I have this White grafted on Black Pine, which I'm taking care of for my mother, who got it from my grandfather who bought it I think 30-40 years ago if I remember correctly from what my mother told me. No idea why my grandfather bought it because he never did anything with this or other bonsai, and my mom doesn't know nor care for bonsai either, and they both had it buried in the ground, pot included because they thought that's how you keep bonsai small.
Late '23 my mother asked me to care for it, partly because I'd just started learning with the late Teunis-Jan Klein at Deshima near where I live.
So I dug the pot out, cut off one big root that went out of the bonsai pot into the soil, and slip-potted it to a slightly larger pot, and one day took it to Deshima to get Teunis-Jan's help giving the tree its first styling, which was in winter at the end of '23. Spring or end of winter '24 I repotted it back into the original pot. Pot has no signature, clearly mass-produced but still nice and good quality, I think it suits the tree and it being the pot my grandfather had it in I wanted to keep it in there. The original soil was just regular potting soil but compacted over decades to form a clay that was really hard to remove. Of course I left some because you're supposed to, with mycorrhiza and such, but let's just say it wasn't by choice. The nebari seem to be fused with the stuff because trying to remove it to expose the surface roots I couldn't tell when I'd reached wood. Mycorrhiza or not I'd like to slowly remove all of it over the years just because it's so badly compacted and ruining the surface roots.
I know the wire scars on the trunk are criminal, I guess it being one of the first trees I ever wired I did it too tightly, and should've kept a closer eye on it. I'm sure I checked it monthly, or at most two months before, didn't notice anything and thought it was fine cuz it didn't seem to have grown a lot. Then checked it and had a heart attack in August. Beginner's mistake I won't make again.
So now it's doing quite well, though with our weather and especially the way summer's going this year it's been slow opening its needles, and it has several backbuds that are barely moving, though I did pinch candles and did some light pruning in spring. For the next steps I'd like to emphasize the windswept look by removing anything growing against the wind (on the right), because the current styling with the regular pyramidal shape seems a bit unnatural to me in combination with that folded-over trunkline. I'd at least want to wait till next year to do this of course, but I was wondering what y'all think of the plan, cutting roughly where I marked in the photos, and maybe even grafting one of the cut branches onto that long scarred section of trunk, maybe halfway or three quarters of the way up, to break up that long, uninterrupted, taperless trunkline, and maybe introduce some taper.
Let me know what you think.

Here's the tree before and after first styling:
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FWIW. this is not a windswept. Or was it really meant to be.

It is a pretty decent skeleton for an informal upright. The top just needs to be wired in and mature a bit

I would not remove branching to force it into windswept.
 
FWIW. this is not a windswept. Or was it really meant to be.

It is a pretty decent skeleton for an informal upright. The top just needs to be wired in and mature a bit

I would not remove branching to force it into windswept.
So you would just keep and refine the current styling?
 
You have a really twisted and gnarled base but then the tree was allowed to just grow. Next step would be carrying that movement into the straight section of your tree but this will be tricky with how thick that part of the trunk it. You'll probably need some raffia.

Adding some hard bends will also shorten that section and start to compact the form of your tree.
 
So you would just keep and refine the current styling?
Exactly what I would do. Those branches can be wire pretty easily. Pines are flexible. The branching can be composed in a triangular-ish canopy that leans back over the trunk.
 
hard to tell how thick it is - but if you can bend the long straight portion 90 deg to go back to the right of the image you’d have the windswept style. I’d also like to know what the other side looks like.
 
FWIW. this is not a windswept. Or was it really meant to be.
I agree. Windswept style shows a tree that grew in a windy place where all the growth on the windy side is killed or broken but branches downwind can survive.
This tree has a strong trunk to the right but then doubles back to the left. maybe the prevailing winds suddenly changed direction after the first 20 or 30 years to force the top of the tree back the opposite direction?
It could be styled as windswept but that would require most of the top part to move to the right. White pine is pretty flexible so that could be done.

Apex of the tree coming back above the base is technically informal upright. More of a 'balanced ' style. The pics show that's how it was originally shaped so there's no problem continuing to work with that shape. The strong lower trunk provides visual weight on the right side and longer branches provide visual weight on the left so you could probably get away with shorter branches on the right side.

I'd say all the branches need pruning. Pine growth habit means branches just get longer and longer. As older needles drop the branches become bare with tufts of needles at the ends to look like a poodle. You'll need to learn how to manage white pine growth. Probably start by shortening all branches back to healthy needles or to shorter side branches to try to get back buds to build ramification. It would certainly help to get first hand advice on pine maintenance pruning from someone who knows. Internet advice is confused and contradictory because even beginners seem to feel they are experts and can tell us how to do it. Much better and easier to get someone to show and tell.
 
I agree. Windswept style shows a tree that grew in a windy place where all the growth on the windy side is killed or broken but branches downwind can survive.
This tree has a strong trunk to the right but then doubles back to the left. maybe the prevailing winds suddenly changed direction after the first 20 or 30 years to force the top of the tree back the opposite direction?
It could be styled as windswept but that would require most of the top part to move to the right. White pine is pretty flexible so that could be done.

Apex of the tree coming back above the base is technically informal upright. More of a 'balanced ' style. The pics show that's how it was originally shaped so there's no problem continuing to work with that shape. The strong lower trunk provides visual weight on the right side and longer branches provide visual weight on the left so you could probably get away with shorter branches on the right side.

I'd say all the branches need pruning. Pine growth habit means branches just get longer and longer. As older needles drop the branches become bare with tufts of needles at the ends to look like a poodle. You'll need to learn how to manage white pine growth. Probably start by shortening all branches back to healthy needles or to shorter side branches to try to get back buds to build ramification. It would certainly help to get first hand advice on pine maintenance pruning from someone who knows. Internet advice is confused and contradictory because even beginners seem to feel they are experts and can tell us how to do it. Much better and easier to get someone to show and tell.
Yeah winds suddenly changing direction is not very realistic so my logic was maybe it grew in a sheltered position when small, and then branches started reaching out of shelter into the wind and that's how it got folded over.

I did learn a lot from Teunis-Jan Klein, a European master, over the course of a year before he passed away, and he had a big influence in the styling so I don't want to completely overhaul it to make it a true windswept, just wanted to give it a slightly more naturalistic, flowing look. Here's a small sketch I made of I what I had in mind.

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I agree it needs compacting and refining, but I didn't feel comfortable pruning it back any harder yet as it's only the second year it's in my care and doesn't seem super vigorous yet, but I'm slowly applying the techniques Klein taught me, candle pinching, regular pruning, wiring obviously and needle plucking, but like I mentioned it only has a handful of backbuds so far and they're not really growing (maybe precisely because it needs harder pruning?). Also the candles last year and this year were only 50% or less needles, the rest pollen cones, and Klein taught me to always leave around ten or so clusters of needles on each candle so some I couldn't even touch.
 
Yeah winds suddenly changing direction is not very realistic so my logic was maybe it grew in a sheltered position when small, and then branches started reaching out of shelter into the wind and that's how it got folded over.
The sheltered position when young is possible but I'd expect the trunk to be more upright. I guess other factors could have pushed the lower trunk to the right at some stage but I'm still not convinced it is windswept.
Having said that, your sketch shows an impressive, dynamic bonsai, using the strong lower trunk to balance the apex leaning in the opposite direction. You may notice I mentioned shorter branches on the right side which seems to be just what you've drawn so we must be thinking alike.

I mentioned it only has a handful of backbuds so far and they're not really growing (maybe precisely because it needs harder pruning?)
Back buds not developing is often a factor of the outer and upper shoots growing too well. Some selective pruning should encourage those smaller buds to grow a bit and maybe some more to develop.

Also the candles last year and this year were only 50% or less needles, the rest pollen cones, and Klein taught me to always leave around ten or so clusters of needles on each candle so some I couldn't even touch.
New shoots with pollen cones means elongated new shoots and bare sections along the branches. Think forward a few years if that continues. What will branches look like then?
Pines do need to be reduced at some stage. You need to manage growth rather than allowing the tree to grow as it wishes. From experience, it takes many, many years to recover a bonsai that has developed long, bare branches. Much better to manage growth earlier, even if that means slowing development by a few years IMHO.
 
New shoots with pollen cones means elongated new shoots and bare sections along the branches. Think forward a few years if that continues. What will branches look like then?
Pines do need to be reduced at some stage. You need to manage growth rather than allowing the tree to grow as it wishes. From experience, it takes many, many years to recover a bonsai that has developed long, bare branches. Much better to manage growth earlier, even if that means slowing development by a few years IMHO.
It was frustrating seeing all those pollen cones, limiting options with pruning and pinching. But how do I prevent it from doing that again next year, even if I had pruned it back hard this year? Can an adjustment in fertilizer help, or is it just a genetic trait that I will have to deal with?
 
You can't stop a mature tree from flowering. You can only manage the growth afterwards - which means removing the long, Spring shoots to force shorter replacement shoots. White pine is a single flush species. Difficult to explain in writing so you really need to find an experienced grower in your area to show you the full process.
 
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