Growing some JBP

[cmeg1]

Are there any JBP varieties that would do well on the Gulf Coast (zone 8b)?

I think I read they can grow zone 6-8, so should be good

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

really nice setup and result... waiting for spring...

 

[Bavarian Raven]

It was mentioned earlier in the threat (sorry to get off topic) but why shouldn't you use aluminum wire with evergreens?

 

[0soyoung]

It was mentioned earlier in the threat (sorry to get off topic) but why shouldn't you use aluminum wire with evergreens?

You can use whichever you want. Dan Robinson advocates aluminum for every species, but I would say that copper is most commonly used on conifers.

Annealed copper bends easily for application but quickly work hardens from bending, so it holds a position very well. Typically it can be left on a conifers for at least two seasons before it starts to 'bite in' and must be removed.

Aluminum is cheaper but doesn't work harden in the same way, so you must use thicker gauges to accomplish the same. It is cheaper as well as easy to reuse, so it is the wire of choice for short term wiring, especially on species such as maples.

And then there is the cosmetics of a tree with wire on it. Thinner wire (copper) is less noticeable or attention getting. It certainly matters during an exhibition, but otherwise, you decide.

 

[cmeg1]

Increased the intensity.
I lowered the light about 4 inches since the pines seem to be setting terminal buds.I thought they may need more light energy,maybe should of done that all along.But anyway they are getting about maximum light intensity.Any more and they would need additional CO 2 to get any gain from additional light intensity( from what I read anyway)

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

ALuminum wire vs copper

For pines and many conifers, the branches stay flexible for a number of years. Wire needs to be on for a number of years for pines in order to get the branches to set. The 2 advantages of copper are first more holding strength. Because it work hardens, you can use thinner wire. Aluminum wire needs to almost be the same diameter as the branch you are wiring to hold the branch. So with copper you can use a thinner diameter wire.

Second, copper wire as it work hardens stays in place. I move my trees around. I found trees wired with aluminum have branches knocked out of position every time I move the tree around. Cat or squirrel brushes against the tree, branches wired with aluminum move. Trees wired with copper hold their shape. They do not move when bumped or brushed against. If you have to leave wire on for 2 years, using copper means it has a better chance of staying in the position you want longer.

Aluminum is easier to use, easier to apply, and costs less. It is great for those deciduous trees that often don't need wire for more than a few months.

 

[cmeg1]

Potted up the Pines.
I believe they will survive the light pruning they take when removing the Rootpouch.All the tips get pruned.Seedlings anyway.
Roots look fibrous enough and compact which should give a good start.
I wanted them in better soil and to also make watering easier so I went ahead with potting them on now.I sure am ready to get these outside growing.

 

[cmeg1]

Repotting went good

Seems the Pines are growing after the repot 3weeks ago.
Buds are popping with new bunches of short needles on many of them.Going to be a long first growing season for these
They can have a proper rest come Winter.
Lots of branching on several.Almost like a yatsubusa qualty.
Something to be said really for 18 hours of direct light Lol

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Yes, 18 hours of light, can, to some degree, make up for the lower intensity of fluorescent light. Nicely done. Those look really healthy.

 

[cmeg1]

They are outside now.


I was getting tired of watering these every morning at 6:30 and recirculating the water manually,so I top dressed the pots and out they went.
Probably get shocked a little,maybe even turn red.I don’t know.
At any rate,they are looking good.Maybe they will eventually push a candle this season.
Seems a good head start.I’ve read of the Forestry Service starting evergreen trees 5 months early and then planting out in Spring and they report better growth and survival rate.

 

[cmeg1]

One week outside makes a difference.


I can already see a difference from being outside for a week in natural sun.
Probably adjusting to the photoperiod.Best I can provide is about seven hours direct sun.
Just want some simple, rather small 3/4” trunk Black Pine bonsai.
Somewhat tall,no sumo’s here

 

[River's Edge]

One week outside makes a difference.


I can already see a difference from being outside for a week in natural sun.
Probably adjusting to the photoperiod.Best I can provide is about seven hours direct sun.
Just want some simple, rather small 3/4” trunk Black Pine bonsai.
Somewhat tall,no sumo’s here

View attachment 235380

What are you using for fertilizer ? 3/4 inch trunk in year 3 is quite doable with a good fertilizer plan.

 

[cmeg1]

What are you using for fertilizer ?

Dyna Gro at the non-circulating hydroponic production rate.1 tsp/ gal. Every watering.
Thanks,that is encouraging.
Just some subtle shapes.

 

[cmeg1]

Got a few small candles pushing.

I downsized the collection of these Pines I grew and just kept four of them.I gave the other 10 to a friend.
These have been growing since October of last year,so no really big candles.I hope to have them next Spring after they get a much needed Winter rest.I’m sure they will be tired by then.Something tells me these are going to be bushes next season.One of them is quite dwarf looking with tons of buds!

 

[cmeg1]

Going to start more over the Winter!

It is just too fun starting these early indoors over Winter,so I bought about 700 seeds from same supplier lol.
I will have them sprouting by end of October again.

Meanwhile these seem to be really vigorous.Probably like they’re growing in zone 9 or something

I took photos today and now I got the fever.
The #3 has about 8 branches around the bottom of it.Might be a good oppertunity to build a fat trunk quickly.

 

[River's Edge]

Going to start more over the Winter!

It is just too fun starting these early indoors over Winter,so I bought about 700 seeds from same supplier lol.
I will have them sprouting by end of October again.

Meanwhile these seem to be really vigorous.Probably like they’re growing in zone 9 or something

I took photos today and now I got the fever.

Careful after the fever comes the cramping! Space issues everywhere!

 

[cmeg1]

Space issues everywhere!

Yes.... the reason I really do not want very big trees.Not enough water anyway.We’ll see what happens.I don’t know why I ordered 700 seeds,you get one chance you know.

 

[River's Edge]

Yes.... the reason I really do not want very big trees.Not enough water anyway.We’ll see what happens.I don’t know why I ordered 700 seeds,you get one chance you know.

Struck me, as i just came in from the nursery after looking at over 150 six year old pines and considering the next steps for them They have been moved outside the fenced in area to make room for the five year old tridents.

 

[cmeg1]

About 600 or so seeds
No patience here ,so the seeds are soaking already.Seems Japanese Black Pine do very well starting early.These will be sewn mid-August.How’s that for an early start
It is actually only a few months longer than the frost dates of typical zone 9,their highest zone.I believe that is why JBP can handle it.

 

[cmeg1]

Candles grew ok for not having a dormancy yet.Should be bushes next year!
Tons of low branches to thicken the trunk.