Golden Mugo “Aurea”

[Pj86]

First time posting on Bonsai Nut, been a long time lurker.

Recently I purchased a named cultivar Pinus Mugo “aurea”. I haven’t seen many memeber try to bonsai a named mugo cultivar.

I went ahead and followed Vances advice in repotting after Father’s Day during early summer. The only concern I have is that tree is a B&B. When repotting it had several fibrous feeder roots outside the root ball and the burlap bag had already decomposed. The main root ball was heavy clay. I went ahead and removed around 50-60% of this clay. My concern is that with B&B the tree is mainly root deficient and some feeder roots might be present in the clay that was removed. Hopefully this was the right call as the clay/potting mix was affecting the health of the new feeder roots. What do you think?

Planted it in a nice loose soil composed of lava rock, composted pine bark, expanded shale, sphagnum moss and vermiculite.

I also suspect it has slight fungal infection. Also, as I was repotting I noticed a few shoot moth larva. I pruned back only dead branches and needles. This opened it up more to air and light. Any tips on how to deal with these issues?

 

[sorce]

Welcome to Crazy!

I wouldn't mess with b&b unless it was a perfect specimen. Even then I'd burn it.

Is it supposed to be that...."golden".

Sorce

 

[penumbra]

Maybe its the picture, but that tree does not look healthy. It also does not seem to have a lot of bonsai potential.

 

[Pj86]

Welcome to Crazy!

I wouldn't mess with b&b unless it was a perfect specimen. Even then I'd burn it.

Is it supposed to be that...."golden".

Sorce

Maybe its the picture, but that tree does not look healthy. It also does not seem to have a lot of bonsai potential.

Thanks sorce, I really like this bonsai forum.
Yea this B&B is going to be a challenging project. Been doing this for 15 years and haven't really encountered information on B&B within the bonsai community.
I wish I can find perfect nursery specimens, been looking for the past 15 years, lol. Most of the trees I encountered require 5 years up to 10 years planning for what I'm wanting to achieve.

No it is not suppose to be that "golden" during the summer. On the other hand, during the winter it is supposedly amazing yellow/gold. I found this specimen neglected in the corner of a large nursery under shade cloth. I suspect the golden is a fungal infection due to the poor condition it was under the past few years. The fungus looks like Dothistroma Needle Blight, I will need to look under the microscope to confirm. It shouldn't be fatal and can be managed with proper care and some fungicide. When inspecting it, it also had shoot moth larva. Also, should not be fatal and can be managed.

Just was wondering if anyone had personal experience with these horticultural issues and any tips on managing.

The pros is that it has a lot of new budding for next year. Also when doing the repotting it had a lot of fibrous roots around the clay ball so it must have been in the pot for a few years. I also suspect that it was meant to be bonsai material as the ball was not a ball but rather look like a thick disk (6 inches), like someone had cut it a few years prior. The fibrous roots were mainly on the sides as the bottom in my opinion was too wet which might have caused some root rot.

Pernumbra. Yes this specimen requires 3-5 years of good horticultural practice before I start styling it. Im thinking more abstract for this specimen, if I were to label the style it will be more of a "literati or bunjin" style.

 

[sorce]

I've seen Mugos all kinds of grafted and layered recently, so you might be able to layer the top off.

Kinda shame to lose all that bark though.

Sorce

 

[Japonicus]

Just was wondering if anyone had personal experience with these horticultural issues and any tips on managing.

Spray the candles in Spring and again when they're partly opened up. This is the best time to get at needle cast anyway.
I rotate Phyton27, Bonide granules, and Daconil, though it wouldn't hurt to address it now, it won't prevent it from
coming back in the Spring and treating the candles in Spring should go a long way in protecting the new growth all year.
Systemic treatment is key.

What is this grafted to? Scots Pine? Is it grafted? If not don't work the roots till July.

 

[Pj86]

Spray the candles in Spring and again when they're partly opened up. This is the best time to get at needle cast anyway.
I rotate Phyton27, Bonide granules, and Daconil, though it wouldn't hurt to address it now, it won't prevent it from
coming back in the Spring and treating the candles in Spring should go a long way in protecting the new growth all year.
Systemic treatment is key.

What is this grafted to? Scots Pine? Is it grafted? If not don't work the roots till July.

I'm not certain what species it is grafted onto. It is most likely not Mugo as it is so tall and the texture of the bark doesn't look like a Mugo.

I probably will start with Daconil and Bonide granules. Phyton27 seems like pretty good stuff but has a lot of precautions for application. Any particular regimen that you follow that was succesful?

 

[Japonicus]

I'm not certain what species it is grafted onto. It is most likely not Mugo as it is so tall and the texture of the bark doesn't look like a Mugo.

I probably will start with Daconil and Bonide granules. Phyton27 seems like pretty good stuff but has a lot of precautions for application. Any particular regimen that you follow that was succesful?

Doing nothing killed my 1st JBP. Took maybe 4 years.

Amazon.com

This is my 1st year to use the granules, but as the candles are extending the Phyton27 followed by Daconil a week later,
stopped last years needle cast with a 2nd round of treatment as the candles open up. Also good the sprinkle MicroMax atop the soil and cultivate it in, in the Spring as well.
Mugo pine are susceptible as any other 2 needle pine. My 2 WPs don't seem to be bothered by it, but they get the same treatment.
I have 4 or 5 mugos, they all, maybe one was not so bothered by it this year, not sure. My Austrian, or pinus nigra had it the worst last 2 years.
It takes a couple years I believe to get it under control, but always will be susceptible. Preventative maintenance is best angle.

 

[Paradox]

I am sorry to tell you this, but that looks more than just a fungal infection. It looks like the tree is on its way out.
The new candles arent even extended they just look dead. Sometimes a bargain isnt a bargain

 

[Pj86]

Quick update on this tree for hobbyist that will find it useful in the future. First the tree is showing signs of recovery. There were several issues that were addressed:

1) Pine shoot moth - mid-summer I began seeing small larva crawling out of the tips of the candles. At this point there was not much that could be done besides treating it with a mild dose of Neem oil and hand picking each candle that was affected. Also, occasionally I would see adults and eggs on the pine needles, I hand picked those out also.

2) Fungal Infection - The tree most likely did not have a fungal infection but just for safety it was treated with a dose of Daconil early summer and then a dose of Phyton 27 early Fall. I will most likely do a dose of each next year.

3) Roots - The root system did benefit from a late repot in the Spring/early Summer to a lava/pine bark mix. Maybe 1/4 of the old clay soils was removed and it was potted in a shallower pot tilted at an angle for better drainage.

4) Frost/Sun Protection - Because this variety does lose its chlorophyll pigmentation during the winter, I believe tips of some needles were not protected during a hard freeze or hot summer spell. It has retained these needles and seem to be functionally but just damaged.

I really like how the healthy needles turn a golden yellow color during the winter. Still a long road to recovery, hopefully will become something special in 5-10 years.

 

[Japonicus]

I believe tips of some needles were not protected during a hard freeze

Possibly in or below zone 4 the roots could be damaged above ground.
Not in Texas.

 

[Pj86]

Making a nice recovery this spring. Treated it 2 times with Phyton; once during Fall and another time around April. Also, it was repotted into a root maker pot to increase aeration. Looking like 2 more years I can begin thinking about some serious work.

 

[BuckeyeOne]

Nice recovery!
I would get in and remove the three year old needles to open up the interior. They are typically brown and dry. You will see a gap between each years growth. It allows sunlight to get into the tree and promotes back budding. Mugos need a little help as they don't backbud easily