pweifan
Shohin
You definitely have a winner here, Mark! 
Glaucus Satsuki Azalea farm
- Thread starter Glaucus
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TrimmyWhimmy
Yamadori
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Breed the hybrids again with a deciduous azalea?
Glaucus
Omono
Yes, breeding this hybrid either with a pure deciduous or pure evergreen may be the way to create more offspring.
However, I am not really interested in pure deciduous azaleas. It may be that either of these crosses will give seedlings that appear basically evergreen or deciduous, hiding the hybrid origins. And that an third cross among siblings is needed to bring out some recessive traits. An evergreen that has some hints of a deciduous azalea flowers would be what I would most like to see.
Glaucus
Omono
Some more blotch-oriented seedlings:
I have so many more nice ones, it is actually overwhelming and I am losing track.
Additionally, some nice pure or near-pure satsuki started to flower.
And there's some with superior foliage which I am curious on how the flowers look.
I actually don't have pictures of the pretty good partial obtusum solid coloured ones, that are now nearing the end of flowering.
Several may be worth propagating. But I can't decide which ones and I rather invest energy in the blotch and variegated flower seedlings.
But I do feel I have some stuff of value, solid-colour obtusum-wise.
The super-dry weather seems to keep petal blight away. Which is very good.
I have so many more nice ones, it is actually overwhelming and I am losing track.
Additionally, some nice pure or near-pure satsuki started to flower.
And there's some with superior foliage which I am curious on how the flowers look.
I actually don't have pictures of the pretty good partial obtusum solid coloured ones, that are now nearing the end of flowering.
Several may be worth propagating. But I can't decide which ones and I rather invest energy in the blotch and variegated flower seedlings.
But I do feel I have some stuff of value, solid-colour obtusum-wise.
The super-dry weather seems to keep petal blight away. Which is very good.
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Way to go Mark!
Cheers
John sends
Cheers
John sends
pweifan
Shohin
As much as I love flowers, I'm always biased toward superior foliage since that's what you see most of the time. That first flower is really nice!!!
Glaucus
Omono
True, but so far I'd say that plant habit and foliage genetics depend mostly on the parents (and grandparents) and it is very hard to find a superior form among siblings.
And apparently foliage quality depends so much more on plant health and growth mode rather than genetics. I was considering if there's a cross i can make specifically for foliage, completely ignoring flowers and parentage. But it is hard to decide on.
Generally, I would say those varieties in the Kozan group that are a bit less dwarf and have a bit more vigor, are ideal for bonsai. For me, that would be Aozora and Hekisui, as I do not have all the varieties. Hakurei and Hakurei seedlings also seem good.
But that generally Kozan offspring are among the nicest, foliage-wise. That said, modern varieties generally have Kozan somewhere in their blood line anyway. For sure most of my seedlings have.
Also, my own We1 seedlings have good foliage.
Anyway, some flower highlights:
Once the growing season ends, I need to look at some codenamed selections and see if I can comment on their foliage quality.
I have several very nice selections. I may want to note the duration of their flowers. Or the number of flowers, etc, as well.
It has been a lot of hard work to select the best flower forms. About 400+ new seedlings made the cut. Too many. But at least I culled a lot as well.
And now I need to repot the plants that did not flower yet as well as clean out my growing field and repopulate it.
pweifan
Shohin
We appreciate your dilligent work! I think you're going to end up with some beautiful specimens, with both beautiful foliage and flowers.
Glaucus
Omono
One of the last flowers for this season. Most flowers have faded, but a few late bloomers are still going. Thunderstorm on Monday. O just a few days and maybe a ll flowers will be gone, Then, 10 to 11 more month until next year.
Glaucus
Omono
There's no webshop, though that would be cool. I wish I had a stock or prebonsai material of these azaleas I am sharing pictures with.
It will take some time to build up plant stock for a potential webshop. And not sure if I actually want to take it that far.
It may be the easiest way to popularize my own varieties, though. And yes, there seems to be a demand for them.
It will take some time to build up plant stock for a potential webshop. And not sure if I actually want to take it that far.
It may be the easiest way to popularize my own varieties, though. And yes, there seems to be a demand for them.
Glaucus
Omono
In my growing field the drought is currently selecting out those azaleas that I did not pick out for their flowers:
The plan was to compost all of these anyway. But most are now dying as I have not watered them. There are two 35C/95F days starting tomorrow. I'll have to see if from these crosses only 1 or 2 plants survive and if that reflects on their genetics.
The plan was to compost all of these anyway. But most are now dying as I have not watered them. There are two 35C/95F days starting tomorrow. I'll have to see if from these crosses only 1 or 2 plants survive and if that reflects on their genetics.
Glaucus
Omono
For those interested in leaves, I have an interesting seedling of Byakuren x Hanatsuzuri:
Generally, Byakuren seedlings (a Juko sport) seem to have good genetics for nice leaves.
But this one seems to have a dwarf sport that doesn't glow down growth rate too much.
The left side clearly seems different from the right side.
Somewhat reminiscent of Kazan/Rukizon.
Generally, Byakuren seedlings (a Juko sport) seem to have good genetics for nice leaves.
But this one seems to have a dwarf sport that doesn't glow down growth rate too much.
The left side clearly seems different from the right side.
Somewhat reminiscent of Kazan/Rukizon.
Glaucus
Omono
Some notes about satsuki growth habit. Satsuki grow different from most landscaping garden azaleas. An unique trait is their habit to backbud spontaniously on old wood. This happens a lot on young plants. But also happens on trunks of older bonsai.
This seedling is a clear example:
Colour coding which year's growth this all is:
Orange: spring & summer 2024
Red: spring 2025
Purple: Summer 2025
As you can see, there is a whole row of backbud on last year's growth, as indicated by the row of purple stripes.
At the end of the long orange stripe, there likely was a flower bud this year. Before flowering, from late March and April, several new shoots emerged from he base of the flower bud, indicated in red.
After flowering, this was kinda a bald long shoot with a single leader. But after summer solstice and as the days start to become shorter again, backbudding often occurs on brown wood.
In 2023, this was a small seedling and that years's growth is not indicated as a colour. Satsuki like to grow new shoots just above the soil line. Maybe the orange section started to grow from the soil line in 2023. In 2024, some more shoots grew from the soil line. Even this year, a few new shoots started growing from the soil line as well, in parallel to all the purple-lined shoots filling out the bald whip.
Note, this plant was not pruned at all.
If on older satsuki bonsai, you let these types of water sprouts grow freely, this can create tumorous swellings. For older bonsai, it is often best to immediately remove any new growth as soon as a few mm of green growth is observed. It is said that by removing this type of backbudding early, the tree can be 'taught' to not push these types of water sprouts.
On plants of intermediate are, these backbuddings can be used to develop taper or branches, without the need of pruning to induce backbudding.
On azaleas that are not satsuki and low on R.indicum genetics, pruning is often needed to get any backbudding at all.
This seedling is a clear example:
Colour coding which year's growth this all is:
Orange: spring & summer 2024
Red: spring 2025
Purple: Summer 2025
As you can see, there is a whole row of backbud on last year's growth, as indicated by the row of purple stripes.
At the end of the long orange stripe, there likely was a flower bud this year. Before flowering, from late March and April, several new shoots emerged from he base of the flower bud, indicated in red.
After flowering, this was kinda a bald long shoot with a single leader. But after summer solstice and as the days start to become shorter again, backbudding often occurs on brown wood.
In 2023, this was a small seedling and that years's growth is not indicated as a colour. Satsuki like to grow new shoots just above the soil line. Maybe the orange section started to grow from the soil line in 2023. In 2024, some more shoots grew from the soil line. Even this year, a few new shoots started growing from the soil line as well, in parallel to all the purple-lined shoots filling out the bald whip.
Note, this plant was not pruned at all.
If on older satsuki bonsai, you let these types of water sprouts grow freely, this can create tumorous swellings. For older bonsai, it is often best to immediately remove any new growth as soon as a few mm of green growth is observed. It is said that by removing this type of backbudding early, the tree can be 'taught' to not push these types of water sprouts.
On plants of intermediate are, these backbuddings can be used to develop taper or branches, without the need of pruning to induce backbudding.
On azaleas that are not satsuki and low on R.indicum genetics, pruning is often needed to get any backbudding at all.
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Well done and very thought provoking!
There are always exceptions… but not sure if these azaleas have a good chunk of “satsuki” genes given the constant cross breeding that has gone on over centuries.
Would add on a couple thoughts.
- One sign a Satsuki is not robust and healthy (but look ok) and/or is not being treated correctly is a lack of backbudding. Not sure removal of water sprouts will cause these to no longer form. Maybe not in the same spot?
Sorry, I realized the following isn’t in the specific topic above, (I.e. azalea types that backbud). but felt this information should be added on to help folks who are trying to craft and maintain azalea bonsai.
- Improper after flowering pruning technique is a major contributor to lack of backbudding. For example consistently taking an azalea back to 2 branches, each with 2 leaves after flowering will eventually cause these trees to only have foliage on the tips, triggering radical cut backs.
There are so many cases of this in our student trees, it’s a wonder why the 2x2 pruning technique is always recommended as the standard post flowering pruning without caveat in most books and periodicals.
There are at least six different variations of post flowering pruning, all of which can be used in one pruning session.
To further clarify,
There are many azaleas which will backbud if properly pruned. Pruning alone will sometimes not cause profuse backbudding. Frequent misting and a good cool, not cold environment is also needed.
Cheers
DSD sends
There are always exceptions… but not sure if these azaleas have a good chunk of “satsuki” genes given the constant cross breeding that has gone on over centuries.
Would add on a couple thoughts.
- One sign a Satsuki is not robust and healthy (but look ok) and/or is not being treated correctly is a lack of backbudding. Not sure removal of water sprouts will cause these to no longer form. Maybe not in the same spot?
Sorry, I realized the following isn’t in the specific topic above, (I.e. azalea types that backbud). but felt this information should be added on to help folks who are trying to craft and maintain azalea bonsai.
- Improper after flowering pruning technique is a major contributor to lack of backbudding. For example consistently taking an azalea back to 2 branches, each with 2 leaves after flowering will eventually cause these trees to only have foliage on the tips, triggering radical cut backs.
There are so many cases of this in our student trees, it’s a wonder why the 2x2 pruning technique is always recommended as the standard post flowering pruning without caveat in most books and periodicals.
There are at least six different variations of post flowering pruning, all of which can be used in one pruning session.
To further clarify,
There are many azaleas which will backbud if properly pruned. Pruning alone will sometimes not cause profuse backbudding. Frequent misting and a good cool, not cold environment is also needed.
Cheers
DSD sends
Glaucus
Omono
BonsaiPlaza used to have some fat trunked satsuki that had scarring on them that probably came from water sprouts. It was almost like tumourus growth. I planned to post a picture, but I can't find them anymore. Instead of the usual smooth trunks, they were different.
Probably someone didn't remove them in time and yes they grow over and over from specific spots on the trunk. I an sure people have seen these clumps of tissue on mature trees that tend to produce water sprouts. These satsuki bonsai had something similar. So on satsuki, these need to be removed, or removed all but one.
The seedling in the photo is a Hanatsuzuri x Hekisui seedling. This type of backbudding is common for typical narrow leaf, Northern varieties.
I have some wild R.indicum seeldings that came from seeds collected from the wild, growing on the rocks of some mountain road, so I can maybe see how different bonsai satsuki are from wild satsuki.
This backbudding is naturally filling out the entire plant. For ordinary azaleas for landscaping, one would need to prune to make the shrub more bushy and make sure it doesn't have ugly band branches.
But it seems that with satsuki, no pruning is needed. It is very possible that all these purple shoots will get flower buds for next spring.
For growing landscape satsuki, I think one can do so without pruning them at all, and get a nicely filled out plants with plenty of flower buds.
But for some other azalea varieties, one can possibly get ugly spokewheel branch structure with long bald branches, this way.
One can probably get better shaped satsuki for landscape with pruning than without, but it isn't a huge issue if there is no pruning at all.
You can also see that if you articially make a bald whip, it will eventually bud out all over and fill out completely, without needing to prune to induce backbudding.
For the seedling pictured in the photo, I could step in right now for the first time and style it to be a decent bonsai. Like by wiring it right now, carefully inbetween the new shoots, and removing excess branches at the soil line.
And then next spring, repot and look after the nebari.
Probably the early spring red growth helps drive the purple growth. So yes, doing the 2 shoot 2 leaf pruning may have prevented this level of backbudding.
You would need a healthy plant, space for more roots in the pot to support more leaves, enough fertilizer, sunlight falling on the old wood, and then it will backbud once the days stop getting longer.
It is said that misting softens the bark and helps backbudding. Either spontanious or induced by pruning. Not sure if true.
Probably someone didn't remove them in time and yes they grow over and over from specific spots on the trunk. I an sure people have seen these clumps of tissue on mature trees that tend to produce water sprouts. These satsuki bonsai had something similar. So on satsuki, these need to be removed, or removed all but one.
The seedling in the photo is a Hanatsuzuri x Hekisui seedling. This type of backbudding is common for typical narrow leaf, Northern varieties.
I have some wild R.indicum seeldings that came from seeds collected from the wild, growing on the rocks of some mountain road, so I can maybe see how different bonsai satsuki are from wild satsuki.
This backbudding is naturally filling out the entire plant. For ordinary azaleas for landscaping, one would need to prune to make the shrub more bushy and make sure it doesn't have ugly band branches.
But it seems that with satsuki, no pruning is needed. It is very possible that all these purple shoots will get flower buds for next spring.
For growing landscape satsuki, I think one can do so without pruning them at all, and get a nicely filled out plants with plenty of flower buds.
But for some other azalea varieties, one can possibly get ugly spokewheel branch structure with long bald branches, this way.
One can probably get better shaped satsuki for landscape with pruning than without, but it isn't a huge issue if there is no pruning at all.
You can also see that if you articially make a bald whip, it will eventually bud out all over and fill out completely, without needing to prune to induce backbudding.
For the seedling pictured in the photo, I could step in right now for the first time and style it to be a decent bonsai. Like by wiring it right now, carefully inbetween the new shoots, and removing excess branches at the soil line.
And then next spring, repot and look after the nebari.
Probably the early spring red growth helps drive the purple growth. So yes, doing the 2 shoot 2 leaf pruning may have prevented this level of backbudding.
You would need a healthy plant, space for more roots in the pot to support more leaves, enough fertilizer, sunlight falling on the old wood, and then it will backbud once the days stop getting longer.
It is said that misting softens the bark and helps backbudding. Either spontanious or induced by pruning. Not sure if true.
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