BobbyLane
Imperial Masterpiece
Are you sure thats not beaver damage
next time i try a layer ill be sure to whip out the knob cutters!
Full Moon Maple Development
- Thread starter ABCarve
- Start date
next time i try a layer ill be sure to whip out the knob cutters!
ABCarve
Masterpiece
Dirty deeds done dirt cheapAre you sure thats not beaver damage
next time i try a layer ill be sure to whip out the knob cutters!
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
When you get enough new (adventitious) roots, they could support the part of the tree above the girdle. The original roots could then starve to death and nothing else would be lost. But, if there are problems generating enough adventitious roots, the whole works could be lost.
One can snip off parts of plants (usually branch tips or pieces of the stems near the tips) and stick them in some medium. That 'cutting' (as it is called) may generate adventitious roots and become a new tree, but doing it is a race against time. Some water is lost to photosynthesis and transpiration which desiccate the cutting. The cutting must generate adventitious roots before it desiccates! Hence cuttings are kept in a terrarium-like environment to minimize how much water is lost by transpiration.
With an air layer, the xylem is left intact, supplying water and nutrients to the foliage which, in turn, keeps making auxin to stimulate root growth and carbohydrates to fuel it.
A cutting has no water supply.
Water is supplied to a layer (via xylem/wood).
IOW, that stuff you like to carve, AB, is a water line.
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Pitoon
Imperial Masterpiece
ABCarve
Masterpiece
So far......so good??? I think I’m gonna let it grow and grow......more roots.
Pitoon
Imperial Masterpiece
That green is such a nice color.
I was just going to say the same thing, like it's glowing.
Japonicus
Imperial Masterpiece
Hack Yeah!
Omono
Looks like one of these
ABCarve
Masterpiece
Got mine from Superfly.
ABCarve
Masterpiece
So this is the tree I was referring to when I said "the big cutting". This is a pals Hokkaido elm. It was 11.5" high with a bad nebari and he wanted to make it a shohin. He didn't want to wait on a ground layer and simply sawed the entire trunk off so it was 8.5" high. The trunk is about 2.5" in caliper. This was done in late winter just as the tree was waking up, in the environment of a temperate greenhouse. The trees bottom end was soaked in KLN rooting liquid then placed in a tray of orchid moss. The whole thing was then placed on a heating mat. Within two monthsit was cutback. The second photo is what the stump became. I think they call this a twofer.When you get enough new (adventitious) roots, they could support the part of the tree above the girdle. The original roots could then starve to death and nothing else would be lost. But, if there are problems generating enough adventitious roots, the whole works could be lost.
One can snip off parts of plants (usually branch tips or pieces of the stems near the tips) and stick them in some medium. That 'cutting' (as it is called) may generate adventitious roots and become a new tree, but doing it is a race against time. Some water is lost to photosynthesis and transpiration which desiccate the cutting. The cutting must generate adventitious roots before it desiccates! Hence cuttings are kept in a terrarium-like environment to minimize how much water is lost by transpiration.
With an air layer, the xylem is left intact, supplying water and nutrients to the foliage which, in turn, keeps making auxin to stimulate root growth and carbohydrates to fuel it.
A cutting has no water supply.
Water is supplied to a layer (via xylem/wood).
IOW, that stuff you like to carve, AB, is a water line.
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
Yep. One could probably do the same with most any ulmus. They will sprout from root cuttings and stem cuttings can be rooted. One can also do as you have done with your full-moon maple and get an ulmus two-fer. But I think I can pretty much guarantee that it ain't gonna happen with your full-moon. If there is not a node below the girdle, the (now) roots will die - it is just a question of whether it is before the part you want has sufficient adventitious roots to survive before that happens.
Sorry to be so obtuse.
It was not what I was trying to be.
btw those corky ulmus parvifolias, (Hokkaido, Seiju) make roots so easily that all one needs to do is keep the bark wet. I successfully air layered my Seiju doing nothing more than wrapping a ring of damp sphagnum around a stem (i.e., the same as a conventional air-layer, just without cutting a girdle or applying a tourniquet). The problem with moss on them is that roots pop underneath and push off the corky bark.
ABCarve
Masterpiece
I think we have some good stuff going. Roots are popping out on the surface and sides. I can’t really tell about the “full radial” without being too disruptive. I think next spring will tell the tale.
ABCarve
Masterpiece
Ready for a new pot. It better be a lot lighter. This is on the edge of too big!!
Driftwood
Mame
Looking like a great tree already! What full moon variety is this and what's the difference between them? Plz keep posting pictures.
ABCarve
Masterpiece
So the moment of truth has arrived and now time to do the dirty deed. Pulled off the screening around the layer and poked at it to find a full 360 fibrous root system. The tree was placed on the rack and attacked with the recip-saw slowly removing bottom roots, looking for the plastic separation sheet that was put around the girdled trunk. This provided a clean view as to where the new trunk bottom was. This would have been so much easier using the cement separation layer @NaoTK used for his quince.
ABCarve
Masterpiece
Once most of the original roots were removed the last bits of the trunk were power carved off flush with the plastic separation sheet. The sheet can then be removed.
ABCarve
Masterpiece
Potting up. I'll bet it lost 30 lbs. Great new diet plan.
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Shogun610
Masterpiece
Nice I’m doing the same method for a field maple clump in a few weeks. Ground layer then but below that next year if goes well. Great work.
