Extended season starting trees indoors
- Thread starter cmeg1
- Start date
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
Did a test cycle last evening.
Since the days are quite warm yet I have to run the light cycle during the nightime mostly.
I set it from 6pm-12pm=18 hours on 6 hours off.
The only way I can do this and keep it a sealed environment for co2fertilization is to turn the led boards all the way to the lowest setting.The intensity is relatively adequate probably around 400 par.This keeps the heat from the Meanwell led drivers at a minimum.If they are turned up the heat was very intense bringing the grow house to 95F. At the lowest setting the growhouse did not go above 79F which is perfect for staters.
As it gets cooler in the coming weeks I can run the lights brighter as the cold air will buffer the growhouse heat.
My Rootpouches arive in a few days and I will start filling the resevoir with RO water!
Should have 200 or more plants….these will be bigger this season,but small enought to fit into a 12x12 shipping box…..so priority mail postage rate is affordable.
Since the days are quite warm yet I have to run the light cycle during the nightime mostly.
I set it from 6pm-12pm=18 hours on 6 hours off.
The only way I can do this and keep it a sealed environment for co2fertilization is to turn the led boards all the way to the lowest setting.The intensity is relatively adequate probably around 400 par.This keeps the heat from the Meanwell led drivers at a minimum.If they are turned up the heat was very intense bringing the grow house to 95F. At the lowest setting the growhouse did not go above 79F which is perfect for staters.
As it gets cooler in the coming weeks I can run the lights brighter as the cold air will buffer the growhouse heat.
My Rootpouches arive in a few days and I will start filling the resevoir with RO water!
Should have 200 or more plants….these will be bigger this season,but small enought to fit into a 12x12 shipping box…..so priority mail postage rate is affordable.
Attmos
Chumono
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
Thanks.It is very fun.There is nothing like doing this and seeing results and proving what works best and what does not work.I love the science you put into this and look forward to getting a few more trees in the spring!
They are getting planted tomorrow if my Rootpouch arrive early.I will mix the nutrient today.Thats always fun.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
I WILL MIX NUTRIENT TODAY !!
I will post what nutrients I use and what ratios.Also what bio-stimulants and root starter additives.Thes best and most important thing is to start all of them at the same time….so watering is an appropriate time for all the plants in the same growth stage.
Although I will say that planting in pure perlite can be advantageous in this respect because anything can be watered almost daily since so draining of a medium.So I will definately not add any moisture holding additives at all to the media.These grow great in pure perlite….check photo from a few years ago!
I will post what nutrients I use and what ratios.Also what bio-stimulants and root starter additives.Thes best and most important thing is to start all of them at the same time….so watering is an appropriate time for all the plants in the same growth stage.
Although I will say that planting in pure perlite can be advantageous in this respect because anything can be watered almost daily since so draining of a medium.So I will definately not add any moisture holding additives at all to the media.These grow great in pure perlite….check photo from a few years ago!
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
I got mine from 1st state seed in Newark Delaware…..a garden hydro center.
They also have bagged pumice for when I ever plant in a bonsai pot.
Perhaps search on Amazon or eBay?
They also have bagged pumice for when I ever plant in a bonsai pot.
Perhaps search on Amazon or eBay?
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
These horticultural grades should be the grade #2 I am using……. With the free shipping it’s only $11 more than I paid for my 4 cubic foot bag..Free one day delivery.
**** if planting in pure perlite ,one would definitely use some pH adjusting technique like some general hydroponics pH up and down every watering.****
**** if planting in pure perlite ,one would definitely use some pH adjusting technique like some general hydroponics pH up and down every watering.****
Last edited:
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
MIXED THE NUTRIENT TODAY
Everything ended up being .5 ec.That is very early veg strength.
I mixed the ionic nutrients first and then added the bio-stimulants.
1/8 tsp Cal/Mag
1/16 tsp mono ammonium phosphate/root starter
1/64 tsp potassium sulphate
1/8 tsp vitamin B / magnesium
1/8tsp veg-A
1/8tsp veg-b
—————-
1/16 tsp black humic powder
1/16 tsp amber fulvic acid powder
1/16 tsp kelp powder
1/8 tsp tech grade amino acid
1/16 tsp enzyme powder
1/16 tsp pr/5 gallons yucca powder surfectant
READY TO POT THINGS UP TOMORROW AND GET THEM GOING!!!
I also sterilized all the smart trays and pumps in bleach water before placing in the 4x8 grow table.
Everything ended up being .5 ec.That is very early veg strength.
I mixed the ionic nutrients first and then added the bio-stimulants.
1/8 tsp Cal/Mag
1/16 tsp mono ammonium phosphate/root starter
1/64 tsp potassium sulphate
1/8 tsp vitamin B / magnesium
1/8tsp veg-A
1/8tsp veg-b
—————-
1/16 tsp black humic powder
1/16 tsp amber fulvic acid powder
1/16 tsp kelp powder
1/8 tsp tech grade amino acid
1/16 tsp enzyme powder
1/16 tsp pr/5 gallons yucca powder surfectant
READY TO POT THINGS UP TOMORROW AND GET THEM GOING!!!
I also sterilized all the smart trays and pumps in bleach water before placing in the 4x8 grow table.
Attmos
Chumono
Ever tried peroxide for sterilization? In hunting for ways to kill black mold I learned that peroxide kills more spores, bacteria, etc. than bleach. It's worked well on the mold, but your grow room has different dangers.
Anyway... just curious.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
I’ve read about that I ended up going for hypochlorous acid, which is hospital and food grade bleach that is like food safe but just as powerful. I need to try some peroxide. I hear it’s a good fungicide too all in all the best thing I learned every two weeks drain the reservoir and then shop vac with a wet dry vac and just wipe the thing out quickly and fill back up.
And also every 2 to 3 weeks, put your garden hose with the city tapwater, flooding and trickling under the smart trays that are elevating the pots just a flush the table out and that’s plenty. You don’t have to lift up the smart trays ………. do thisat the same time you changed the reservoir it can all be done in a half hour except for filling it back up, of course.
Probably by far the best practice!!
Also, don’t let your water get over 74° run that AC at night water between 68 and 75 is perfect
It is a fact when water gets warm over 75 it lacks oxygen and the bacteria and pathogens will multiply when it’s cool. It has more oxygen and the plants love it.
This is where very small amounts of either peroxide or hypochlorous acid. The food grade bleach come in handy if your water is running a little warm sometimes.
RoadManDenDron
Chumono
Excited to see how this batch progresses!
Couple of questions, what are the black things in the reservoir?
Are you pumping the solution into the top beds? Or do you just dip the trays still?
Thank you
Couple of questions, what are the black things in the reservoir?
Are you pumping the solution into the top beds? Or do you just dip the trays still?
Thank you
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
They are hydroponic submersible pumps…..one is on to circulate constantly and another one to plug in when I want to flood the table …..just hosed up to the table inlet.
So when I water the pots….they will be standing on the floodtable smart trays and the one pump will pump the flood table with water deep enough to saturate the standing pots.
Here is pictures from this evening.
I attached the co2 fertilization and calibrated the sensor and organized the wattage flowing through the specific cords(2-12 awg extension cords plugged into a safety gfci outlet).And also tweeked the timers so the AC and DEHUMIDIFIER are never running at the same time
It would be too much amps.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
THE GROWHOUSE ENVIRONMENT SEEMS STABLE!
Lights low for the transplanted cuttings to settle for 2-3 weeks with extra mono -ammonium phosphate….also to keep the heat down.
Humidity kept on the high side of 40%-60% RH
by means of a room dehumidifier ran during lights ‘ON’ cycle.
Lights ‘OFF’ cycle temperature kept around 10-15 degrees cooler than lights ‘ON’ cycle throughout the entire grow season by means of a portable WINDOW VENTED ac unit ran only during lights ‘OFF’ to keep a sealed growing environment for co2 fertilization during lights’ON’…..exhaust must vent outdoors for this……also if temperature goes lower than the 15 degree threshold ther is significant risk of metal ion toxicity from the cold plants not pushing metal ions while in lights ‘OFF’ and then all of a sudden the indoor warm temperatures from lights ‘ON’ will transpire the plants causing an ion overload and you will get the strange purple leaves from mineral toxicity
Also an oil heater will be needed to adjust this ratio to normal as the cold winter approaches.
An oscillating fan to keep a mild breeze over the plants during lights on…extremely important for micronutrient uptake and transpiration of water so plant can cool and stay healthy.
Grow temp of 75-84 with co2 fertlization……75-80 without co2 fertilization.
Resevoir temperature between 68-75 degrees……not any colder or plants will be slow to metabolize……not any hotter or the risk of excessively lower oxygen in warm water will breed pathogens and bacterias.
Yaaay!
Once tweeked and adjusted it is fun………even a power failure really will not kill the plants……just ease them back slowly when power comes on back on
Lights low for the transplanted cuttings to settle for 2-3 weeks with extra mono -ammonium phosphate….also to keep the heat down.
Humidity kept on the high side of 40%-60% RH
by means of a room dehumidifier ran during lights ‘ON’ cycle.
Lights ‘OFF’ cycle temperature kept around 10-15 degrees cooler than lights ‘ON’ cycle throughout the entire grow season by means of a portable WINDOW VENTED ac unit ran only during lights ‘OFF’ to keep a sealed growing environment for co2 fertilization during lights’ON’…..exhaust must vent outdoors for this……also if temperature goes lower than the 15 degree threshold ther is significant risk of metal ion toxicity from the cold plants not pushing metal ions while in lights ‘OFF’ and then all of a sudden the indoor warm temperatures from lights ‘ON’ will transpire the plants causing an ion overload and you will get the strange purple leaves from mineral toxicity
Also an oil heater will be needed to adjust this ratio to normal as the cold winter approaches.
An oscillating fan to keep a mild breeze over the plants during lights on…extremely important for micronutrient uptake and transpiration of water so plant can cool and stay healthy.
Grow temp of 75-84 with co2 fertlization……75-80 without co2 fertilization.
Resevoir temperature between 68-75 degrees……not any colder or plants will be slow to metabolize……not any hotter or the risk of excessively lower oxygen in warm water will breed pathogens and bacterias.
Yaaay!
Once tweeked and adjusted it is fun………even a power failure really will not kill the plants……just ease them back slowly when power comes on back on
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
BROUGHT THE SEEDLING CUTTINGS INTO THE GROWHOUSE PRE-TRANSPLANTING.
I believe these will all be good.I adjusted to co2 fertilization to be around 700 ppm.
Once they are growing and vigerous I will up it to 900ppm and by the end of the grow around 1200 ppm.
These will green up for sure.
Even the ones that were not fully rooted will suprise you later on and root bigtime and green up too……this seems to occur more with indoor growing environments that can be perfected.
Hoping to transplant today if my pots arrive on time
I believe these will all be good.I adjusted to co2 fertilization to be around 700 ppm.
Once they are growing and vigerous I will up it to 900ppm and by the end of the grow around 1200 ppm.
These will green up for sure.
Even the ones that were not fully rooted will suprise you later on and root bigtime and green up too……this seems to occur more with indoor growing environments that can be perfected.
Hoping to transplant today if my pots arrive on time
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
SIX WEEKS TO GET HERE
This took 6 weeks to strike and root the cuttings to this point.
They were actually brought out from the humidity domes @4 weeks.
PERLITE ROOTS THESE BETTER,A BETTER AND MORE VIGOROUS SUCCESS RATE.EASIER TO PLANT A VERY ROOTED CUTTING TOO WITHOUT HAVING TO TRIM ANY DELICATE ,TENDER ROOTS…..PLANT INTO A ROOTPOUCH!!!
This took 6 weeks to strike and root the cuttings to this point.
They were actually brought out from the humidity domes @4 weeks.
PERLITE ROOTS THESE BETTER,A BETTER AND MORE VIGOROUS SUCCESS RATE.EASIER TO PLANT A VERY ROOTED CUTTING TOO WITHOUT HAVING TO TRIM ANY DELICATE ,TENDER ROOTS…..PLANT INTO A ROOTPOUCH!!!
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
FOLIAR FEEDS AT THIS STAGE
I have learned not to foliar feed the kelp like I used to at this settling stage and also during the rooting process niether.You run the risk of burning them.
In a week or so when I know they are vigorous I will definately start foliar feeding the fulvic acid/kelp 5:2 ratio weekly foliar feeds.
These look greener in just the few hours today in the warmth and co2 fertilization!
I have learned not to foliar feed the kelp like I used to at this settling stage and also during the rooting process niether.You run the risk of burning them.
In a week or so when I know they are vigorous I will definately start foliar feeding the fulvic acid/kelp 5:2 ratio weekly foliar feeds.
These look greener in just the few hours today in the warmth and co2 fertilization!
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