Extended season starting trees indoors

What is the reason to wrap the leaves in wire like that?
It creates the Broom shape( beginnings) rather easily and fuss free.This will be done quite often in the early stages and also during the entire dormant season when no leaves and in winter storage.Not at all during the 2nd growing season…..usually.
Close internodes are EXTREMELY HELPFUL at this stage……and after.
I’m so ready to air-layer these…….probably in about 4 weeks.
**** note the progression of pictures below*****
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It creates the Broom shape( beginnings) rather easily and fuss free.This will be done quite often in the early stages and also during the entire dormant season when no leaves and in winter storage.Not at all during the 2nd growing season…..usually.
Close internodes are EXTREMELY HELPFUL at this stage……and after.
I’m so ready to air-layer these…….probably in about 4 weeks.
**** note the progression of pictures below*****
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Ok I see where you are going! Very cool!
 
Very nice results and interesting to see you expand to more species like Zelkova and Elm.

Any plans to consider growing azaleas any time soon? Long term, I want to give azalea hydroponics a try eventually. Though not sure if I will go for the full humidity and CO2 control setup.

Also nice example of using more blue light to shorten the internodes and set up a plant for bonsai without the need to prune.
I wonder if you also have considered adding localized red light aimed at a sacrificial branch? While the remainder of the plant gets lots of blue.
Would that work and help extend a single branch with long internodes while keeping the rest of the plant very compact? Could be nice on a pine. Or would the branch more out of the red spotlight into the blue light?
 
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Very nice results and interesting to see you expand to more species like Zelkova and Elm.

Any plans to consider growing azaleas any time soon? Long term, I want to give azalea hydroponics a try eventually. Though not sure if I will go for the full humidity and CO2 control setup.

Also nice example of using more blue light to shorten the internodes and set up a plant for bonsai without the need to prune.
I wonder if you also have considered adding localized red light aimed at a sacrificial branch? While the remainder of the plant gets lots of blue.
Would that work and help extend a single branch with long internodes while keeping the rest of the plant very compact? Could be nice on a pine. Or would the branch more out of the red spotlight into the blue light?
It seems best to dwarf the initial growth down at bottom……then change light recipe to normal and let a sacrifice go……….I find it good to remove middle growwth of the sacrifice keeping leaves only at tip and base so as not to kill out the initial/valuable dwarf growth of tree.
 
Ah, yeah that makes sense. Get a few short internodes going first. And then just remove the additional blue light, and go from there, right?

Yeah in a sac branch of course you will remove most leaves except the tip to prevent it shading the remainder of the tree. But you would also keep the leaves at the base of the sacrificial branch?
 
Ah, yeah that makes sense. Get a few short internodes going first. And then just remove the additional blue light, and go from there, right?

Yeah in a sac branch of course you will remove most leaves except the tip to prevent it shading the remainder of the tree. But you would also keep the leaves at the base of the sacrificial branch?
Yup
Yup
The sacrifice can potentially weaken the lower branches big time and they won’t even have any buds…….. and the tree will use more than 30% of its photosynthetic energy just to assimilate the nitrogen needed to fuel this growth.
It weakens roots buds cells and decrease of sugar content(brix)immensely and plants susceptible than bugs and everything
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Zelkova’s on their 2nd shaping

Some of these are on their 2nd shaping,getting density.
Seems a critical state now.The kelp foliar feeds will ideally get bottom buds to break more often,as it would only benefit Zelkova Broom starters.I have seen this in the past where only a select few varients of seedlings will have the propensity to backbud effectively in this manner.

Kelp foliar feeding and indoor co2 fertilized growing environments should greatly increase this effect of growth.

When these are unwrapped in about 10-14 days they will have a rest and maybe even down the fertilizer a tad perhaps.Or more importantly ,I will decrease light intesity😉Then photosynthesis and energy gain and backbud development will be priority.Roots will be energized during this brix building process of photosynthesis ,as many natural rooting stimulants and minerals will come about in the trees innate survival and growth processes that occur naturally when not assimilating added nitrogen growth.

Its important these are strong and the bigger roots air-pruning in the stonewool mini block will increase bio-stimulant availability to the tree.
This will also set the trees on a more proper track to be air-layered effectively and very quickly for much better nebari and a natural flare at base of trunk preceding.

I have another 6 mnths anyways,right?
May as well manipuate these natural processes.

Can see in the pics where I hope to get much better lower branch extensions from the Fulvic acid/Kelp foliar feeding.This will increase quality immensly and develop very quickly as Broom Zelkova.

I have about 150 of these and if all goes well I will be able to do 2 nice crops a year.5-6 mnths in co2 could be fantastic….wish me luck.
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ok ,so been two weeks!
Wrapped green lol

Also a new dunking/submersion method of foliar feeding the Fulvic/kelp for the pine seedling cuttings!!!


These come unwrappequite scuffy,but still healthy nontheless.I will stall these now for at least a month and let them rest and get pumped.
Low ec mother fertilizer…..strength is always good….backbudding,roots and brix.
Will proceed to airlayer at some time,though I have six months more growing time….optimistic these will be worth the effort.
No air layering till around the 3 mnth mark…..from now…..maybe earlier.

So I am submersing the small pine seedlings in the foliar feed…..the fulvic/kelp will increase rooting at the cutting stage BIG TIME!!
Leaving these submersed for 1 hr is plenty…….usually is quite the challenge getting the foliar to absorb evenly into waxy pine needles…….I have developed methods,but this is way more efficient……3 fold really….will root incredibly fast and very even.
The fulvic acid gets the kelp into the cells directly and really pumps these pre-cutting stage
And in entirety really with the submersion method….stem and all.Will be very beneficial right at cut site and be full of natural rooting hormones.
I need a bigger tote for this.
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Just 4 weeks and significant girth in trunks.

More than doubled in many of them.
These will be fat in 6 months!!!
Virtually no top extension either!!!

This is so cool to me.
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ok ,so been two weeks!
Wrapped green lol

Also a new dunking/submersion method of foliar feeding the Fulvic/kelp for the pine seedling cuttings!!!


These come unwrappequite scuffy,but still healthy nontheless.I will stall these now for at least a month and let them rest and get pumped.
Low ec mother fertilizer…..strength is always good….backbudding,roots and brix.
Will proceed to airlayer at some time,though I have six months more growing time….optimistic these will be worth the effort.
No air layering till around the 3 mnth mark…..from now…..maybe earlier.

So I am submersing the small pine seedlings in the foliar feed…..the fulvic/kelp will increase rooting at the cutting stage BIG TIME!!
Leaving these submersed for 1 hr is plenty…….usually is quite the challenge getting the foliar to absorb evenly into waxy pine needles…….I have developed methods,but this is way more efficient……3 fold really….will root incredibly fast and very even.
The fulvic acid gets the kelp into the cells directly and really pumps these pre-cutting stage
And in entirety really with the submersion method….stem and all.Will be very beneficial right at cut site and be full of natural rooting hormones.
I need a bigger tote for this.
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What’s a good application to add kelp/ fulvic acid to outdoor grown pre bonsai? Like in ceramics , colanders or grow bags?
 
What’s a good application to add kelp/ fulvic acid to outdoor grown pre bonsai? Like in ceramics , colanders or grow bags?
In the media just add with every watering @ 1/8tsp fulvic & 1/16 tsp kelp….this is 5:2 ratio( proven to work 50% better).
For foliar feeding no more than once a week or will definately burn foliage,as the cytokineses the kelp initiates will produce heat( cell division).
For foliar is best to add 1/64th tsp yucca powder as a surfectant to spread out the water sufficiently on the leaf surface……yucca is beneficial anyways and is a very mild fungicide.
No more than 1/16th tsp per 5 gallon water though!!!!!!!!!
Yucca is extremely helpful when mixing mineral and organic together as it is a wetting agent and will keep the two types of nutrient in suspension if storing in solution for any length of time like in a resevoir.
 
Planted 72 Trident maple

Need to get priorities straight….thin the herd ( from other species) and clear space for definate winners.

While japanese maples seemed odd in the growtent,The Trident seemed to do quite nicely, aside from the shock of being outside to indoor.
Actually these could be naturals for the i door environment like the zelkova’s,beings they defoliate incredibly.
These will be grown from the start…..using a slow grow method to build energy reserves and preperations for air-layering.I want to shape these a bit and air-layer all of them…..could be VERY interesting.A long 6 mnths!
I better grow them slow!!!!!
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Actually considering clump style mini’s……the kind that are made from a single tree and just cut back to the base repeatedly until there is a nice,fat ,interesting trunk base with several trunks growing.
 
Recently purchasing seeds directly from overseas.

If you contact USDA it is easy to get import labels for free.I had mine emailed to me right away…..8 labels!!!

Many sellers on alibaba will go lower than kilo(1000 grams).
My preferred is 250 grams( about 9oz ).
$6.88 per oz.
Good pricing…..about a third of cost I used to spend and guaranteed fresh as I can choose the freshest crop if I wait till’ January or February.
I could sell as a business,but prepare to make proper germination cut tests as you have to declare viability to sell legally.

They have zelkova,japanese Maple,trident maple and many others……completely fresh harvest around january or so….I always pick the freshest batches.
I could of bought a kilo of JBP for $135=3.82 oz
What would I do with 35 oz?

My next batch of zelkova and tridents will be from alibaba though😉

I can easily go through a whole oz in one crop……especially if straight planting w/out stratification……so a two year supply for sure !
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SOME EUONYMOUS ALATAS

I have a 100 year old bush in the yard…several actually.
Now seems collecting time.I want to make clumps of these in the grow tent…since these are slow growers I believe it would prove beneficial starting with co2 fertilization.
The Autumn color is spectacular and some type of Kabudachi or clump would be awesome.
I need to commit to a crop of these with an indoor and extended season.
Good and fresh seed.
So three months cold stratification it is!!!!!
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FIRST DEFOLIATION ZELKOVA BROOMS!!!!!

Was much needed.The leaves were ratty looking from being wrapped up in leaf.Like night and day now.I am so much happier with them and it is more enjoyable.
seems this way works.Only discarded 12 out of 130 of then.I have about 120 of them.
There really is no rushing these.Strong growth with short internode is everything as these are starting.
I just pulled all leaves of with hands relatively quickly…2.5 hrs.
Buds were set quite nicely and way down the start of the branch thanks to the kelp foliar feeds every week.
Many will have to go in the cold fridge after setting a bit of energy growth.I will grow on about 30.
Space is limited for to grow more pines!!!

Will post pictures in about 45 minutes
 
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