Elm carve ...... Smooth or rough cavern? Higher carve?

[Tieball]

This is my Water Elm......it has a long ways to go yet. This is the second year of recovery after I lost all branches, lost right to the trunk, during a harsh and cold winter. The branches came back slowly over the two year since loss....but are developing. The branching came back like arms stretched straight out. What I'm trying to accomplish now is movement through selective bud growth. The base of the trunk is 5". The height is 18". There's a lot of growth and maturity to develop over the years ahead. It has potential for backyard bench level showing.

I have a question on carving.......well, at least I think that carving is the solution. There is an area below that first branch on the left. I attached a close-up of that specific area. Would you think that carving that old branch out and creating a carvern below the branch would look okay?

If carved, should I keep that branch above the carve or eliminate the branch? Above that branch you can see a branch loss hole. My imagination says eliminate the branch and carve up to include the hole above the branch. I think it might look more natural and create a different overall appearance.

If carved, should I go for a smooth hollow or should I rough that area up? By rough up I'm thinking rough like a previous tree trunk rotted off and broke away. By smooth I'm thinking that the area was created by nature's growth years ago and has had time to heal over and roll in smoothly. Rough or smooth?

The healing on the lower trunk is slooooow.........if at all.

I also attached a close-up of the new apex in development is that helps the imagination based on other elements.

It's all progress after starting over and simple hoping that the makes it through winter. This year it has a good moist green color below the branch bark......a good sign.

 

[sikadelic]

I had a water elm pass away over this winter. I am not 100% that it's gone so I am treating it like it is still alive...time will tell.

About your question, I think that would be a good area for carving as the wounds aren't healing well for you. Would you be able to rotate it a bit counterclockwise to make it a focal point? If not, maybe you could bring the carving more to the center. That is just my opinion though. Looks like you have a nice tree on the way!

 

[Tieball]

I had a water elm pass away over this winter. I am not 100% that it's gone so I am treating it like it is still alive...time will tell.

About your question, I think that would be a good area for carving as the wounds aren't healing well for you. Would you be able to rotate it a bit counterclockwise to make it a focal point? If not, maybe you could bring the carving more to the center. That is just my opinion though. Looks like you have a nice tree on the way!

Let me explore a little rotation tomorrow in the daylight. What do you think about eliminating that branch and carving up to the branch loss hole?

My tree looked dead that year. Branches were veined with a ripple effect. No green. I set the tree out in the hot sun all day and watered it a lot...like 3-4 times a day. It came back early summer.

 

[sikadelic]

I think that it totally up to you. If it were me, I would keep it. It seems well developed and will only continue to develop over time so in my opinion, it adds to your tree.

Good call on the rehab. I need to get mine on the bench and in more sun. I had been afraid to move it since it's on the mend. It has a high organic potting mix to keep it damp but it could definitely use more sun.

 

[Tieball]

Keeping the branch. You're probably right. With all the winter die back I've had, once cut off and carved there will not be future growth in that area likely.

I think my plan this year will be to let it leaf out and keep the branches clipped back so it doesn't get to bushy and wild.

When my tree recovered it was in almost all Turface MVP? .... With a small amount of aged pine bark added. For me that seemed to hold the moisture very well about a half inch below the soil surface with good drainage. A lot of very fine hair like roots developed. In late spring, well after most all trees were growing, even oak and beech, I began to trim back branches trying find live tissue. None. The branches were dry sticks. The sap at some point just turned to chalk. So I watered the bare trunk that was left....just not wanting to give up yet.....and I just set it out so I could easily water it when passing by. I was lucky I guess. Growth happened. I do know that the tree wants as much hot and direct sun as I can give it all day to grow.

This last winter I buried the entire plastic pot in sand outdoors and surrounded the tree with a windshield fence. The plastic fabric fence is like a 90 shield. Stops the cold winds but allowed snow to accumulate inside as an insulation layer. It seemed to work this winter and will be the plan for the next winter.

 

[sorce]

I like the low how it looks now.

The branch could stay or go, but I reckon you might should cut your branches back to the first branch all over.

Good save!

Sorce

 

[Tieball]

I like the low how it looks now.

The branch could stay or go, but I reckon you might should cut your branches back to the first branch all over.

Sorce....I don't understand a part of your comment and don't want to miss some good thinking. What do you mean by "...cut your branches back to the first branch all over"? Can you clarify so I follow your thinking?

 

[sorce]

Sorce....I don't understand a part of your comment and don't want to miss some good thinking. What do you mean by "...cut your branches back to the first branch all over"? Can you clarify so I follow your thinking?

I was thinking something like this
View attachment 70619

Just for movement and taper.

But I don't k n ow if you're at that point yet!

Sorce

 

[Tieball]

I was thinking something like this
View attachment 70619 View attachment 70620

Oh...okay...I get it. That illustration helps a lot. Thanks for the extra effort.
Best done now during dormancy while buds are not yet swelling yet or after leaves harden?

Maybe best after leaves harden so I know I am cutting to a good live branch point. And, perhaps, if I'm lucky, some adventurous buds form on the cut branch because of the good sap flow. Sound about right?

 

[tmmason10]

I think cutting that branch and adding a cavernous hole would look pretty good but it is a little drastic. Best advice is to proceed as is until you figure out if that is the direction you want to go or not. Nice tree.

 

[Tieball]

I think cutting that branch and adding a cavernous hole would look pretty good but it is a little drastic. Best advice is to proceed as is until you figure out if that is the direction you want to go or not. Nice tree.

The tree is not all that attractive to begin with so trying a new look might be good. The tree will not likely ever present itself as a solid bonsai....however, it can be a good learning experience in trying new directions.

 

[sorce]

I can't make a horticultural call for you like that!

I'd probably let some runners go may be till midsummer, and keep those clean of inner leaves so your first branches (the stuff you'll use), gets good sun.

I'd keep a close eye on em and cut em as they get where you want this year.

I find its easy for them to get outta proportion, a fall cut back May be
Too late!

But I am really not even MY go-to guy for horticultural knowledge!

Jusluvulmus! <Changed to ridiculous at first......hmm, thanks phone!

Sorce

 

[Tieball]

Played with the photo editor to see what the tree might look like carved. A rough look anyway. Just thinking.

 

[sorce]

Oh that does look Nice!

Sorce