Ebihara nebari musings

[Clicio]

With a wooden growbox the tree can be screwed directly to the bottom of the box. Not sure if that would benefit the whole process. Just saying

Yes. But the benefit of roots strongly growing down after reaching the edges of the board is lost, in that case.

 

[Adair M]

I have been growing trident maples for bonsai commercially now for around 30 years so I think I do know a bit about roots, especially trident maples. I seem to be able to achieve very similar results just by selective root pruning. Initial pruning to remove vertical roots which promotes a number of laterals which are then allowed to grow freely. After a year the roots are again pruned. All down roots removed completely. All laterals cut back to a few cm long which promotes more laterals roots, especially from the cut ends. That gives an increasing density of lateral roots growing from the trunk. Allow free growth for another year then repeat. Always ruthlessly remove any vertical roots and shorten laterals leaving just a few cm of new root each time.
All the nutrients and water coming from lateral roots really causes the base of the trunk to buttress out which is a bonus.
Plenty of lateral roots means they will fuse naturally. There does not need to be a reason except as they thicken the spaces between reduce. Fusion happens from the trunk outward. Roots that are anchored to the trunk cannot move away from neighboring roots as they thicken and the new wood growing between just fills the spaces. Same thing happens to forks in the trunks above.
The only thing that is really necessary is to promote lots of lateral roots from the start and prevent vertical roots. Screw to a board if that excites you but pruning roots is the key to promoting more roots and lateral roots whether the trees are on a board or not. Allowing lots of growth then speeds the process up significantly, especially when the ends of the roots can grow down into cooler, constantly damp soils below.
Layering can also promote plenty of lateral roots but still needs to be followed up with good root pruning techniques aver the following years to get even better results. I use seedlings through metal sheet to get them to do their own layering and then restrict the roots to laterals only. It is quick and produces a high rate of good root systems and flared trunks due to the callus as mentioned in some other responses.

I agree with most of what you are saying. Repeated root pruning is necessary to ramify the root system.

What you are missing is by screwing to a board, the tree cannot make downward growing roots, at least not directly under the trunk. So, the root mass that would grow down and would have to be “ruthlessly cut off” using your method can remain because that growth has been directed into lateral, radial growth.

Ebihara’s method accomplishes the same goal as what you are doing, just more efficiently, and faster.

 

[Canada Bonsai]

I have officially hired a professional translator and bonsai professional in Japan to translate the 11-page Kinbon article (May 2001). I am surprised that this had not been done yet.

When discussing Ebihara's nebari-development method people tend to focus on technique and procedure with--it seems to me--very different understandings of what his objectives were. I am hoping the article will shed some light on Mr. Ebihara's objectives, in addition to providing biographical information and new insights about his techniques.

I am looking into publication permissions and publication outlets (I don't have either at the moment!). At the very least, I'll summarize the article here in my own words.

 

[Adair M]

I have officially hired a professional translator and bonsai professional in Japan to translate the 11-page Kinbon article (May 2001). I am surprised that this had not been done yet.

When discussing Ebihara's nebari-development method people tend to focus on technique and procedure with--it seems to me--very different understandings of what his objectives were. I am hoping the article will shed some light on Mr. Ebihara's objectives, in addition to providing biographical information and new insights about his techniques.

I am looking into publication permissions and publication outlets (I don't have either at the moment!). At the very least, I'll summarize the article here in my own words.

Great idea! Contact Bill Valavanis. He may be interested in republishing it in his new edition of International Bonsai, and he is very familiar about how to go about getting permission to do so.

 

[Adair M]

With a wooden growbox the tree can be screwed directly to the bottom of the box. Not sure if that would benefit the whole process. Just saying

Screwing the trunk to the board is only part of the method. The other part(s) are directing the roots with little nails to asssure even coverage. That would be rather awkward to do if the roots are down in a box. Another part is lifting the tree annually, pruning around the perimeter of the board, pruning off any upward growing growing roots (there won‘t be many, but there will be some) and rearranging crossing roots. Again, difficult to do if it’s on the bottom of a wooden box.

Just saying.

 

[Fonz]

Screwing the trunk to the board is only part of the method. The other part(s) are directing the roots with little nails to asssure even coverage. That would be rather awkward to do if the roots are down in a box. Another part is lifting the tree annually, pruning around the perimeter of the board, pruning off any upward growing growing roots (there won‘t be many, but there will be some) and rearranging crossing roots. Again, difficult to do if it’s on the bottom of a wooden box.

Just saying.

Yeah that annual lifting of the tree from the pot would be sort of a hassle. I hear ya

 

[Canada Bonsai]

Great idea! Contact Bill Valavanis. He may be interested in republishing it in his new edition of International Bonsai, and he is very familiar about how to go about getting permission to do so.

Thanks @Adair M ! Mr. Valavanis was the first person I reached out to It turns out that Bonsai Focus owns the translation rights to Kinbon for all languages except Chinese. I am now waiting to hear back from Bonsai Focus. My hope is that they will simply allow me to share this article myself.

 

[Adair M]

Yeah that annual lifting of the tree from the pot would be sort of a hassle. I hear ya

The worst part would be trying to arrange the roots out radially, and tacking them with little nails, working from above. Remember, the tree will have a canopy, which will be in the way! It‘s difficult enough just doing it on a board! (I’ve done it.)

And, you’ve also lost the advantage of allowing roots to get to the edge of the board, and grow down to a lower level of soil. This really aids in thickening. Have you ever noticed how “circling roots” stay thin? They’ll get long, but they don’t really thicken. Downward growing roots, on the other hand, tend to thicken.

A tree in nature, not in a pot, uses roots to anchor it’s place in the soil, and also to absorb water and nutrients. It need thick, strong roots to do that anchoring. In a bonsai pot, we use wire to anchor the tree in place, so the tree doesn’t need anchor roots. A large part of bonsai culture is encouraging small feeder roots, right? But, if we want to create the dinner plate nebari, and do it quickly, we want “thick roots”. The trick is to do it in a controlled manner. Screwing on a board is the best method devised, so far. Even if the goal is to just have a nice, spreading nebari, the board method works. Just don’t do it for a long of a time.

Even using a board, to create the dinner plate nebari takes a long time.

 

[BobbyLane]

There is a guy in Ireland who creates incredible nebari on deciduous trees by field growing on a tile and trimming the roots back every few years.

 

[leatherback]

So what I have tried.. Two nails; Two roots. Hold them together. Then wire around to keep the roots in place.

 

[BobbyLane]

Looks legit Mr surgeon

 

[Davidlpf]

So what I have tried.. Two nails; Two roots. Hold them together. Then wire around to keep the roots in place.

View attachment 346577

I wouldn't use wire so close to the trunk, it could let marks in the bark if the roots grow strong, and you might be surprised how fast can some roots grow. It's better use some kind of natural rope (cotton or rafia), that will disintegrate in a few months after do its job.

A. palmatum deshojo screw in a table in 2018



The same tree in 2020



The result is simply amazing



Photos source

Cheers

 

[leatherback]

incredible nebari

Hm.. Not sure about that beech. It looks off to me. Maybe due to the lack of remification in the nebari?
It is a skill to get it that way, but I am not sure I like it

 

[leatherback]

it could let marks in the bark if the roots grow strong,

Good point. Guess I will see at the next repot.
But.. This is a practice tree. Will never be great; see the nice chop there...

he result

Very nice indeed. This is what I have in mind when I tell people that for trees in early development, grafting of roots is not often needed.
On tip from my side would be to not have the root ends so evenly cut. I think visual lines might develop in your nebary when all the cuts are aligned. Our eyes are masters at spotting patterns

 

[clem]

Good point. Guess I will see at the next repot.

you can also check before next repot : for example in August or July, you remove the soil surface above your nebari, and then you check if roots are swelling because of the nails constriction, if roots are growing in the wrong direction etc. Your tree will not suffer from this as the distal roots (the rootlets to the teremities) are still in the soil.
I've done this in August on my youngest palmatum cultivars from cutting, and i was suprised to see that their roots had grown very much since March. I'll even check the nebari and eventually cut ugly roots growing the wrong way sooner (in July) next year. Doing summer nebari check up enables to check & improve the nebari & the tree doesn't suffer at all (as long as you spray water on the roots before they dry out) in my experience from this summer.

 

[BobbyLane]

Hm.. Not sure about that beech. It looks off to me. Maybe due to the lack of remification in the nebari?
It is a skill to get it that way, but I am not sure I like it

I think for European Beech, it doesnt get much better than this example.

 

[leatherback]

I think for European Beech, it doesnt get much better than this example.

I guess we have a different view here

 

[BobbyLane]

I guess we have a different view here

maybe you have higher aspirations, but in re to the beech in the oval pot that is exceptional radial nebari. im not a fan of the plated ones.

 

[Davidlpf]

View attachment 346575

Ummmmhh It reminds me something..



I think it could be improved with a good root pruning.

I do prefer Walter's beech

Cheers.

 

[BobbyLane]

Ummmmhh It reminds me something..

View attachment 346739

I think it could be improved with a good root pruning.

I do prefer Walter's beech

Cheers.

i think the roots are pretty realistic to how Beech roots would look in the wild.
could it be more 'perfect' as in cut back in places, sure why not. impressive none the less.