EBIHARA BRANCH RELOCATION

Perhaps Boon may have done it already? Tagging @Adair M here. But at least I wanted to document my process clearly for the greater good hopefully.
I don’t believe Boon has done it. That’s where I learned about, however.

I do know Juan Andrade has done it.
 
One more question, why are you waiting until spring to 'plug it in'?
Is it just going to be in the way of your doing other things with the tree in the meantime?

In part yes. But also if I do it now not much will happen until spring in terms of fusing the vascular layers.
 
I don’t believe Boon has done it. That’s where I learned about, however.

I do know Juan Andrade has done it.

Yes he's even tried the ultimate one which is taking the middle section of a trunk out and then joining top and bottom perfectly. What??? I saw him trying it on at least one trident although I do not know if it was successful?
 
Last edited:
Good luck with the final stage, Serge. Are you going to use a micrometer to measure depth and diameter of the peg? It will need to be so precise to work.
 
WHat I find so interesting is that this is so complex for woody species. Yet for succulents it is commonly done.
View attachment 327280

Yes but here you don't have to worry about precise matching of vascular layers. As you know there is a much more exacting aesthetics requirement in bonsai.


Good luck with the final stage, Serge. Are you going to use a micrometer to measure depth and diameter of the peg? It will need to be so precise to work.

Thanks Paul. Yes it will need to be pretty precise to work but not necessarily to the degree that you'd need a micrometer.

There is a good article about this technique done by Nobuichi Urushibata in issue 115 of Bonsai Focus. In this article, Mr. Urushibata uses hand tools (grafting knife, etc) to carve the peg and uses a drill for the hole in the trunk. The work is very clean and professional but I don't think it necessarily requires that level of exacting precision. With that said, sure if you happen to have one around by all means use it. It most certainly cannot hurt ;)

My recommendation: Make sure have a very steady hand, eat a full meal beforehand, don't drink at least a few hours before the procedure and check that you have all your fingers afterwards! 😜
 
This is so exciting @MACH5 so happy you're documenting this!! ... and killer tree, too! 😍

The work is very clean and professional but I don't think it necessarily requires that level of exacting precision

Yes! People tend to overstate the required degree of precision in terms of alignment! The attached images reveal that there is considerable 'wiggle room' when executing the peg-step, although a lot of work undoubtedly goes into controlling and maintaining the healing process!

I dont know if its been attempted or documented in the west.

Yves Létourneau at Les Bonsai ENR in Quebec has done it, and the branch is still alive 12-15 years later. He has a powerpoint on maples that includes documentation of the process, which he's been presenting this in Montreal and around Quebec for years.
 

Attachments

  • ebihara.shoten apex.3.JPG
    ebihara.shoten apex.3.JPG
    393.8 KB · Views: 239
  • ebihara.shoten apex.4.JPG
    ebihara.shoten apex.4.JPG
    219.3 KB · Views: 214
  • ebihara.shoten apex.5.JPG
    ebihara.shoten apex.5.JPG
    241.3 KB · Views: 233
This is so exciting @MACH5 so happy you're documenting this!! ... and killer tree, too! 😍



Yes! People tend to overstate the required degree of precision in terms of alignment! The attached images reveal that there is considerable 'wiggle room' when executing the peg-step, although a lot of work undoubtedly goes into controlling and maintaining the healing process!



Yves Létourneau at Les Bonsai ENR in Quebec has done it, and the branch is still alive 12-15 years later. He has a powerpoint on maples that includes documentation of the process, which he's been presenting this in Montreal and around Quebec for years.


Yes, there is some wiggle room with this technique although once again the more precise and clean your work is the better. Great photos and thanks for sharing. It is great to see that branch (or what looks like a whole new apex!) has done well after so many years which indicates that it is a sustainable technique.

I found a pic from last April. The green pot is a thread graft which I recently completed. The tan colored pot towards the back is the sapling just grafted to the branch to be relocated.

IMG_4402.jpg
 
Phase 2: All systems go.

Just completed the second phase and the most critical.

My first step was to create the peg.

tempImageF0yucj.png

tempImageCqgz2Y.png




The peg was created by lightly carving the end of the branch using a combination of concave cutters and a grafting knife leaving some of the cambium in place.

tempImageDRrdMx.png




Houston we have a problem. After removing the cut paste and inspecting it carefully, the new selected location had not healed nearly as much as I had expected. If I had gone ahead with this location it would have delayed the grafting process and potentially compromise the entire operation. So time for plan B!

tempImageQN9LC9.png




Plan B activated: A second location for the graft was predetermined months ago just in case. This new location now faces towards the right. One big advantage is that now then scar that will be left after I eventually cut off the grafted sapling will face away from us. On the other hand, one disadvantage is that the relocated branch will need to be shortened not using its full length as previously planned.

IMG_5301-2.jpg




A small pilot hole was drilled first. Then a half inch hole was made which matched the diameter of the peg. This part is critical as the work needs to be very precise and carefully calculated otherwise the branch will exit at the wrong angle.

tempImageKjpOnF.png




I used high strength wood glue to further help secure the grafted branch in place.

tempImageYylt3n.png




Branch now inserted into its new location.

tempImagekiiURM.png




Finally the entire operation is well secured with wire and some grafting tape. It is extremely important that it does not move at all during the entire procedure. I am estimating roughly a 2 year timeframe for this graft to be fully completed.

tempImageb2K50e.png




The final step was to cover the graft with cut paste to keep the area free of dirt and water.

Notice how the pitch of the grafted branch corresponds to the ones of other branches in the tree.

IMG_7827.jpg
 
Wow! Just wow! Thanks for the play-by-play, Sergio. This technique is really "next level". Bravo!

I'm just curious, though, do you think that branch is so much further along than if you'd done a thread graft here? It's difficult to gauge size from the picture. The "new" branch has older bark on it which if you'd thread grafted a branch it most likely wouldn't. From the picture it seems to be about the size of your thumb.

Cory
 
Wow! Just wow! Thanks for the play-by-play, Sergio. This technique is really "next level". Bravo!

I'm just curious, though, do you think that branch is so much further along than if you'd done a thread graft here? It's difficult to gauge size from the picture. The "new" branch has older bark on it which if you'd thread grafted a branch it most likely wouldn't. From the picture it seems to be about the size of your thumb.

Cory

Thanks Cory! It is. But, in an ideal situation your branch should be a fully developed one with lots of secondaries and tertiaries. Mine is not nearly as developed but wanted to try this technique anyway since it has haunted me for years. It is unfortunate that I had to cut back the branch so only a portion now is being used. The branch is about 3/4" thick with some age and very nice movement.

My "scape hatch" if I need to abort will be to refill the hole with two-part epoxy. Once healed, I will resort to a thread graft. But hoping this works out!
 
Back
Top Bottom