Eastern white pine

[Paradox]

I believe Paradox is a member of the Eastern Suffolk Bonsai Society.

That is correct

 

[Nybonsai12]

Figured I'd post an update as I love it when others do the same. So here we are a little less than a year later.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Nice. I like it. One reason this tree was 'brittle' it that it might be older than you think. Unfortunately strobus does not form the dark plated bark until it is often more than 30 or 40 years old, your tree looks to be over 20 years to my eye, just judging by the bark. Your branches are clustered at the relatively few whorl points, if you do like the books suggest and get each whorl down to a single branch this tree will look pretty bare. But I would consider doing this in the upper portion of the tree, from whorl 3 on up, maybe whorl 2. I'm afraid you "kind of" need both branches at the first whorl.

It is looking good and healthy, and the foliage is getting more dense. This is good. Give it more time, maybe another year or two of just promoting ramification, and don't cut off much in the way of branches. Then you will be ready for a major styling session sometime 2016 or 2017. It is quicker to beef up a tree, then reduce it into a style, rather than style it and have to wait for it to grow into the style you imposed.

Nice material. Strobus is definitely a species us northerner's should learn how to do. I need to stop typing and go into the yard and look at my strobus, then take pictures.

 

[Nybonsai12]

Thanks Leo! Appreciate the thoughts and advice. I was debating another wiring and removal of some branches this fall. I repotted early in the season and it took it well.

I know that I will have to choose branches sooner or later at the whorls. I'm always hesitant to remove though because I don't want to destroy options and make bad choices but that is part of the learning process I suppose. I know what you mean about the first whorl. I was looking at both branches yesterday trying to decide if I could get by on just one. While the look of two is good, i worry about swelling at the knuckle.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

The lower branches have the least amount of vigor, I doubt with just two branches at the first whorl you will have trouble with a knuckle forming.

On one of my strobus, I had a whorl high up in the tree near the apex. It had begun forming reverse taper. It was in the part of the tree growing most vigorously. I reduced the whorl to one branch and kept that branch pruned for a couple years to slow the growth of it. The knuckle disappeared as the trunk above developed. I would not get concerned too much about knuckles forming, especially if you reduce whorls of branch to just 2, you should not get much swelling. Your tree is in the early phases, if reverse taper does begin to show you have time to smooth it out.

Definitely keep those first 2 branches for a while. And in general, until the tree is bushy, keep as many branches as you can so you will have choices to make when it is ready to style.

You repotted this year. You should let the tree recover for 12 to 24 months without drastic pruning, major bending or other stress inducing techniques. You want a nice flush of buds in spring, and want to let them develop for a year or two to feed the roots and trunk. Get it growing vigorously. Don't skimp on the fertilizer. You have a nice tree with potential there.

 

[0soyoung]

I'm glad I got some back budding, hopefully there is more to come because I tend to snap the branches when wiring, maybe just me but they seem brittle in comparison to other species. Not sure if I did anything to promote the backbuds other than the repot into something much smaller last year and feeding pretty well. Glad you got some as well, did you do anything special?
As for the bark, I can get more pics if you like and PM you or bump up my thread on it, but don't want to thread jack further. It's roughing up well at the base, then gets smooth but then has small rough sections. It's funny because I have monster EWPs in the yard that are smooth like you said.

Your prior bark pix are sufficient. I have yet to see anything similar on my EWP or EWP in my neighborhood, but I am curious about why (i.e., a tree physiology question) and whether it has any connection to backbudding. Usually rough bark goes with old stems and no budding. You are showing rough bark on young (thin, anyway) stems and some budding. I've tried breaking/pinching/removing candles just as the needle scales 'open', JBP-style decandling, and partial shoot pruning after the needles have hardened (both in late fall - circa Thanksgiving - and in spring and I've never seen any back budding, excepting the one I discovered yesterday at a branch collar on my 'minima').

Good nitrogen nutrition is required for budding, so it is no different than any other pine - withhold N when candles are pushing to get short needles and pour it on once the new shoots are hardened. I have been 'pouring' it on year round in the form of Osmocote-Plus as I am not concerned about needle length at this point.

EWP are infamous for being 'brittle'. To me, bending EWP stems is like bending soda straws - bend too tight a curve and the stem 'kinks' like a soda straw does (as opposed to simply snapping off like most 'brittle trees'). As you know, it happens quite suddenly and with no warnings. So you windup with curvy branches that leave you wondering why you didn't go a little farther with and stubs where you wish you hadn't pushed it quite so far. It makes EWP a very frustrating specie for bonsai. But I enjoy working with them just because they have so many more horrible traits, all on one tree (i.e., they are a great test bed). AND, I love those long, soft needles! - oo-oo-oo .

 

[Nybonsai12]

Current pic, did a little wire and prune last fall. letting grow now.... Needs some filling in but I think it's taking shape.

 

[GrimLore]

Current pic, did a little wire and prune last fall. letting grow now.... Needs some filling in but I think it's taking shape.

Actually a little bending and work it looks close to a nice Bunjin already - If it was here it would be in a pot before the weekend was over Nice one and thank you for sharing it!

Grimmy

 

[sorce]

Real nice going NY.

Sux I missed this. Watching for future !

Sorce

 

[Dav4]

I just saw last spring's update on this one and I like the styling so far. In the future, I would consider jinning the lowest left branch....less is more, as they say. Keep up the good work, NY.

 

[Adair M]

Get some gauge 4 copper, and put a little curve in the straight portion of the lower branch.

I also think it's a bit too tall. Looks like you could do a trunk chop about 2/3 the way up where the cluster of branches is.

 

[erb.75]

keep us updated...i might be getting an EWP soon. feel free to give me any advice!

 

[Adair M]

erb,

The best advice I can give you is to avoid EWP. I have seen many EWP bonsai, But never any really good ones. Some species just frustrate you rather than reward you.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

He can't avoid it, he already has it, let's help him make it the best tree possible for the material he has. Jim Doyle has a good one, it is possible. I agree it is a difficult species, but if you already have one that is as nice as this one, why not continue to try to make it better?

 

[Nybonsai12]

I just saw last spring's update on this one and I like the styling so far. In the future, I would consider jinning the lowest left branch....less is more, as they say. Keep up the good work, NY.

Thanks Dave. Words of encouragement are always appreciated, especially I've had lots of discouragement with pines this season. Still trying though!

 

[Nybonsai12]

He can't avoid it, he already has it, let's help him make it the best tree possible for the material he has. Jim Doyle has a good one, it is possible. I agree it is a difficult species, but if you already have one that is as nice as this one, why not continue to try to make it better?

Thanks Leo, i think Adair was just responding to Erb's post where he indicated he may be getting an EWP.

 

[Nybonsai12]

Get some gauge 4 copper, and put a little curve in the straight portion of the lower branch.

I also think it's a bit too tall. Looks like you could do a trunk chop about 2/3 the way up where the cluster of branches is.

Thanks adair. I'll try and post an updated pic. I think it is the picture above that makes that branch appear so straight. As for it being too tall, you are probably right, but I'm not ready to chop anything at the moment. I didn't work it this year at all and it had a fight with pine tip moth. I'm likely going to be leaving it alone for another year to ensure it gets healthy.

 

[Adair M]

Thanks Leo, i think Adair was just responding to Erb's post where he indicated he may be getting an EWP.

That's true, I was trying to respond to Erb's post.

There seem to be a great many posts that I didn't see when I made my post. It's like my iPhone didn't show them.

Anyway, sorry for the confusion.

 

[Adair M]

Thanks adair. I'll try and post an updated pic. I think it is the picture above that makes that branch appear so straight. As for it being too tall, you are probably right, but I'm not ready to chop anything at the moment. I didn't work it this year at all and it had a fight with pine tip moth. I'm likely going to be leaving it alone for another year to ensure it gets healthy.

Sorry, again, I mistyped! I meant "lower TRUNK", not "lower branch".

Maybe I better stop while I'm behind

 

[Dav4]

Sorry, again, I mistyped! I meant "lower TRUNK", not "lower branch".

Maybe I better stop while I'm behind

Hmmm, posting from the wine cellar again?