Don't know how to style this big mugo pine bonsai further...

[Nikul]

This is my first bigger specimen, and I don't know what to do style wise honestly. Some time ago cut needles etc off the left side and the bottom, now I'm not so sure anymore what to do/if this is he way to go. The way to go meaning: Going right with the remaining big branch and then maybe bending it down a bit, closer to the trunk. But maybe that's not a good idea, I'm open to any suggestions or reasonings why I should approach it differently.

I obviously don't expect a step by step guide how to get this to be a great mugo pine bonsai, but some directions/tips/guidance would be very much appreciated. And don't worry, I won't keep it like this in the pond basket, a sieve I've ordered arrives in a week, then I'll be able to repot it in the proper soil, as now it's in quite dense earthy soil. Thank you

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Welcome aboard Bonsai Nut!

Please enter your approximate location and USDA plant hardiness climate data on your icon so we can so we can help you best.

Second please look at Vance Woods resource on handling Mugos.

Finally you desired a short write up. See image below.

[

Best
DSD sends

 

[Shibui]

Unfortunately it is hard to see all the branches on your pine from the photo.
The lower branch growing back is hidden but it looks like it is long and bare while the front branch has some side branches that could be useful.
Long, bare pine branches are not great for bonsai but Mughos will back bud if you force them hard enough.

I'm offering a couple of upright, Literati, possibilities.
The first is the easiest without difficult bends. It is more balanced which seems to appeal to some but not very convincing to me.

Only the front, upper branch is used in this design. Convert previous trunk to dead wood. Convert lower branch to dead wood. Remove rear upper branch completely
Bend remaining branch a little more upright and shorten the top as much as you dare. Shorten existing side branches to get ramification. Over time develop ramification on 2 or 3 remaining branches and apex.

Option 2

Only the upper front branch is used because it has side branches.
Dead wood as for previous option. Remaining branch is bent to the left and twisted 180 deg to move the side branches to the left side. Shorten side branches to develop ramification. Develop drop branches - 1 to the left and 1 behind. Develop sparse apex.
This option is more dynamic. The thick trunk base anchors and balances the strong left lean of a tree growing toward the light.

Just trying to make out what @Deep Sea Diver is getting at with his virt. Possible cascade or semicascade? That could be another good option if you are up to the bending involved. Tilting the entire trunk would help bring the trunk down quite a bit I think.
Something like this?

Tilt the entire trunk 45deg left. Bend main trunk down 20-40 deg (use raffia to protect trunk while bending. Might need to partly hollow the trunk to get a good sharp bend rather than a curve.) Twist forward as you bend to bring that upper branch forward or down if possible.
Remove or jin long, bare branches. Develop branching from remaining smaller branches.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Bark looks more like Scotts Pine or even Lodgepole considering growth habit. Are you sure is Mugho?

 

[Paradox]

This is my first bigger specimen, and I don't know what to do style wise honestly. Some time ago cut needles etc off the left side and the bottom, now I'm not so sure anymore what to do/if this is he way to go. The way to go meaning: Going right with the remaining big branch and then maybe bending it down a bit, closer to the trunk. But maybe that's not a good idea, I'm open to any suggestions or reasonings why I should approach it differently.

I obviously don't expect a step by step guide how to get this to be a great mugo pine bonsai, but some directions/tips/guidance would be very much appreciated. And don't worry, I won't keep it like this in the pond basket, a sieve I've ordered arrives in a week, then I'll be able to repot it in the proper soil, as now it's in quite dense earthy soil. Thank you
View attachment 604934

Kind of surprised no one asked this...
Are you keeping this tree inside?
If so, it needs to be outside.
It will die inside.
It looks weak based on that it appears to have lost branches. Needs to gain strength and vigor before any other work is done.

 

[Nikul]

Welcome aboard Bonsai Nut!

Please enter your approximate location and USDA plant hardiness climate data on your icon so we can so we can help you best.

Second please look at Vance Woods resource on handling Mugos.

Finally you desired a short write up. See image below.

[View attachment 604947

Best
DSD sends

Thank you very much for the detailed drawing. Just entered my location and zone. I'm familiar with the Vance wood Pinus Mugo complete guide on here, read it through multiple times already.

 

[Nikul]

Unfortunately it is hard to see all the branches on your pine from the photo.
The lower branch growing back is hidden but it looks like it is long and bare while the front branch has some side branches that could be useful.
Long, bare pine branches are not great for bonsai but Mughos will back bud if you force them hard enough.

I'm offering a couple of upright, Literati, possibilities.
The first is the easiest without difficult bends. It is more balanced which seems to appeal to some but not very convincing to me.
View attachment 604951
Only the front, upper branch is used in this design. Convert previous trunk to dead wood. Convert lower branch to dead wood. Remove rear upper branch completely
Bend remaining branch a little more upright and shorten the top as much as you dare. Shorten existing side branches to get ramification. Over time develop ramification on 2 or 3 remaining branches and apex.

Option 2
View attachment 604952
Only the upper front branch is used because it has side branches.
Dead wood as for previous option. Remaining branch is bent to the left and twisted 180 deg to move the side branches to the left side. Shorten side branches to develop ramification. Develop drop branches - 1 to the left and 1 behind. Develop sparse apex.
This option is more dynamic. The thick trunk base anchors and balances the strong left lean of a tree growing toward the light.

Just trying to make out what @Deep Sea Diver is getting at with his virt. Possible cascade or semicascade? That could be another good option if you are up to the bending involved. Tilting the entire trunk would help bring the trunk down quite a bit I think.
Something like this?
View attachment 604953
Tilt the entire trunk 45deg left. Bend main trunk down 20-40 deg (use raffia to protect trunk while bending. Might need to partly hollow the trunk to get a good sharp bend rather than a curve.) Twist forward as you bend to bring that upper branch forward or down if possible.
Remove or jin long, bare branches. Develop branching from remaining smaller branches.

Thank you for you multiple styling ideas. I actually moved this fella more upwards, it was initially leaning exactly like in your last drawing. I understand the idea behind it, but I'd prefer a more upwards leaning style. But your comment aided me in the decision making that that one front branch with more side branches is probably the most suitable option going forward further.

 

[Nikul]

Bark looks more like Scotts Pine or even Lodgepole considering growth habit. Are you sure is Mugho?

Lodgepole is impossible as this one was collected in the Alps. Scotts pine could be a possibility, but I'm not an expert on how to differentiate these trees.

 

[Nikul]

Kind of surprised no one asked this...
Are you keeping this tree inside?
If so, it needs to be outside.
It will die inside.
It looks weak based on that it appears to have lost branches. Needs to gain strength and vigor before any other work is done.

The photo is outside, and this tree has always been outside since it was collected. As I wrote in my initial text, the left side was cut by me. And don't worry, I won't continue working in this any further this year regarding cutting off branches.

 

[Paradox]

The photo is outside, and this tree has always been outside since it was collected. As I wrote in my initial text, the left side was cut by me. And don't worry, I won't continue working in this any further this year regarding cutting off branches.

Is it a roofed/shaded balcony?

 

[Nikul]

@Deep Sea Diver @Shibui @Potawatomi13 @Paradox Here are some more pictures, now repotted, in various angles. Let me know what you think

 

[Paradox]

@Deep Sea Diver @Shibui @Potawatomi13 @Paradox Here are some more pictures, now repotted, in various angles. Let me know what you think
View attachment 604970View attachment 604971View attachment 604972View attachment 604973

It would be easier to advise if you gave us pictures from the side and not angled from above. It's easier to see the tree structure from the side.

I understand why you think you needed to repot as you stated it was in "earthy", ie loamy/heavy soil. But now is the wrong time to repot, IMO. Repotting is best done in early spring as buds are swelling. The tree is well beyond that now.

Better yet, find others that keep scotts/mugo pines in your area get a definite ID on this tree and ask them when they do repotting of that species. They are treated similar but there are some differences. Vance advocated for summer repot for mugos and scotts. It worked for him but it doesn't not work for everyone so that is why I suggest asking people near you how they treat these pines. I've repotted mugo in summer with success but I've found the trees recover better if repotted in spring. I've never successfully repotted a scots in summer and only repot those in spring.

So my advice is to water the tree and do nothing else this year because repotting now will set the tree back and it might be slow to recover.

 

[Nikul]

Is it a roofed/shaded balcony?

The place it is now is roofed and the awning? (not native english speaker) is out currently while I'm working outside on the tree, normally not out though so probably close to full sun for 6-8 hours

 

[Nikul]

It would be easier to advise if you gave us pictures from the side and not angled from above. It's easier to see the tree structure from the side.

I understand why you think you needed to repot as you stated it was in "earthy", ie loamy/heavy soil. But now is the wrong time to repot, IMO. Repotting is best done in early spring as buds are swelling. The tree is well beyond that now.

Better yet, find others that keep scotts/mugo pines in your area get a definite ID on this tree and ask them when they do repotting of that species. They are treated similar but there are some differences. Vance advocated for summer repot for mugos and scotts. It worked for him but it doesn't not work for everyone so that is why I suggest asking people near you how they treat these pines. I've repotted mugo in summer with success but I've found the trees recover better if repotted in spring. I've never successfully repotted a scots in summer and only repot those in spring.

So my advice is to water the tree and do nothing else this year because repotting now will set the tree back and it might be slow to recover.

Thank you for the extensive answer. Here's a picture from the side:

I picked this up from a very well established guy from my area, he collected it himself. He said it's a mugo. Further, he told me he had very good experience in repotting July till September, aligning with the advice by vance. But well this is now repotted, no going back possible sadly.

 

[Paradox]

Looking at the tree and the options mentioned above, I'm not sure what would be the best one for this tree.

 

[Nikul]

Looking at the tree and the options mentioned above, I'm not sure what would be the best one for this tree.

Same honestly. At least I got it for a good price considering it's age...

 

[Ruddigger]

I’d cut off everything above the first branch, raise that way up for a tall trunkline and drop the branching down.

 

[Nikul]

I’d cut off everything above the first branch, raise that way up for a tall trunkline and drop the branching down.

Like this?

 

[Ruddigger]

Like this?

Like this:

 

[Potawatomi13]

Lodgepole is impossible as this one was collected in the Alps. Scotts pine could be a possibility, but I'm not an expert on how to differentiate these trees.

Oops. I was looking a the growth habit and needles and not location.