Doc's Spruce tanuki

[doc spring _work]

Been thinking about doing a tanuki (Phoenix graft) for a long time debating different trees and styles.

Yesterday I was at the nursery getting another bald cypress to air layer when I saw a weeping Norway spruce.

I decided I would finally grab some of the sage deadwood I've collected, sat there grinding a channel into the wood and coated it in pine tar (as a seal and coloring agent... I know it's not traditional)

Upsized the pot using mostly perlite and a top layer of peat, I intend to let the tree grow quite a bit more before doing anything.

Dew for scale, thoughts appreciated.

 

[Ruddigger]

Could be cool to use that species as a tanuki. But in my opinion you need more interesting deadwood to build off of.

 

[doc spring _work]

Should've taken good photos of the wood before I started, it's gorgeous. May make more of these in the future, but I wanna see how this comes out first

 

[Nera]

Should've taken good photos of the wood before I started, it's gorgeous. May make more of these in the future, but I wanna see how this comes out first

Definitely keep us updated with your progress!

 

[doc spring _work]

Could be cool to use that species as a tanuki. But in my opinion you need more interesting deadwood to build off of.

Should've taken good photos of the wood before I started, it's gorgeous. May make more of these in the future, but I wanna see how this comes out first

Closer image of what I anticipate to be the front if all goes well, part of the wood is buried and being held by a rock, I find sagewood to incredibly beautiful, sinuous wood with deep cavities and small fibrous holes throughout.

Older worn wood becomes very fibrous so cleaning it up was necessary, I chose pine resin for its hydrophobic capabilities allowing me (in theory) to burry the wood under soil without concern of wood rot.

May not be perfect, I did have other pieces of sage deadwood but I thought my first tanki

 

[Ruddigger]

I still think it’s not interesting. Good luck with it though. I tried using sage wood for a tanuki and it rotted out fast, even though I lime sulfured it.

 

[doc spring _work]

I still think it’s not interesting. Good luck with it though. I tried using sage wood for a tanuki and it rotted out fast, even though I lime sulfured it.

I've always wondered why lime sulfur... I mean I know it makes the wood pop sure... But really it's very short term, it acts a general "pesticide" killing fungi pests and bacteria but it doesn't actively seal the wood... Further it's water soluble so it slowly breaks down... I know it's a traditional method but I just don't understand why you wouldn't coat valuable deadwood in something that activity extends the life span past a year or two,

Sage is very fibrous, so without a deal I would imagine it would rot extremely quickly.. idk maybe it's just the "stupid American" mindset of trying to reinvent the wheel.

 

[DonielDoom]

I've always wondered why lime sulfur... I mean I know it makes the wood pop sure... But really it's very short term, it acts a general "pesticide" killing fungi pests and bacteria but it doesn't actively seal the wood... Further it's water soluble so it slowly breaks down... I know it's a traditional method but I just don't understand why you wouldn't coat valuable deadwood in something that activity extends the life span past a year or two,

I've also wondered what the "go-to" wood hardener or preserver is for folks looking for that kind of application. It's a bit of a tough search term when looking from the Bonsai lens, as you get mostly lime sulfur results. From a woodworker/carpentry lens, there's too many options out there (though, I'd imagine many of which would do a great job).

I think largely the context of where that deadwood is guides the material use. If it's in the soil or other medium that will keep moisture on it or near it frequently, then hardening and preservation may be the key. If it's in the air and not in direct contact with something that will cause moisture retention, then lime seems a fine option (with aesthetic and traditional properties, of course).

I was reading 'The World of Ficus Bonsai' by Jerry Meislik this morning and came across some relevant info. This snippet comes from the section outlining creation of 'strangler fig or hemi-epiphyte' styles where one tree grows over and around another to the eventual death of the host tree. He briefly discusses both letting the host tree rot out intentionally and trying to preserve the host. It's not in depth on that preservation, but here's the juice...

 

[doc spring _work]

I've also wondered what the "go-to" wood hardener or preserver is for folks looking for that kind of application. It's a bit of a tough search term when looking from the Bonsai lens, as you get mostly lime sulfur results. From a woodworker/carpentry lens, there's too many options out there (though, I'd imagine many of which would do a great job).

I think largely the context of where that deadwood is guides the material use. If it's in the soil or other medium that will keep moisture on it or near it frequently, then hardening and preservation may be the key. If it's in the air and not in direct contact with something that will cause moisture retention, then lime seems a fine option (with aesthetic and traditional properties, of course).

I was reading 'The World of Ficus Bonsai' by Jerry Meislik this morning and came across some relevant info. This snippet comes from the section outlining creation of 'strangler fig or hemi-epiphyte' styles where one tree grows over and around another to the eventual death of the host tree. He briefly discusses both letting the host tree rot out intentionally and trying to preserve the host. It's not in depth on that preservation, but here's the juice...

View attachment 604860

Love to see my thoughts aren't alone here, I know there where tons of options for good preservation.

I figured since most Tanki are conifers that would imply the wood should naturally be resin filled.. this in combination with the nice dark color given by pine tar made it a very appealing choice.

Given it's antifungal and hydrophobic capabilities also added to that. At the heart of rot is typically moisture. That's why you can go out into our deserts and find pretty great deadwood from sage,

By applying something that actively prevents moisture penetration and that isn't water soluble then you can extend the woods lifespan.

I know my choice of preservation is unusual, especially in our art form, many like the very pale color supplied by lime sulfur, I don't know what about darker colors appeal to me so much but I'm quite happy with the result of the deadwood.

I'm eager to see my tree grow into the deadwood and to continue the design, and even to discuss it.. although I know the next bit will be me admiring it while watering and waiting for it to grow

 

[doc spring _work]

Minor update, added sand on top of the peat... This is closer to how my other confers that are handling the heat well like it and with temps hitting three digits regularly I'm focusing on keeping plants alive as best as I can

 

[leatherback]

I am making a tanuki.
As part of the work I soaked the deadwood in Paraloid 72 dissolved in Aceton, pretty much with the thinking you voice here..

Interestingly, this is one of those videos where it seems people are not aware of the problem, as rarely it is watched.

 

[doc spring _work]

I am making a tanuki.
As part of the work I soaked the deadwood in Paraloid 72 dissolved in Aceton, pretty much with the thinking you voice here..

Interestingly, this is one of those videos where it seems people are not aware of the problem, as rarely it is watched.

That is a fantastic video! How much did the process set you back? This seems like a highly effective and professional way to be handling material...

I did primarily make do with what I had on hand with farm stores and such.. I know pine tar should work as it has a rich history of maritime use as well as in construction...

I did choose a less then ideal deadwood but I do truly just adore it's shape and texture dispite being a density similar to pine, it's known for burning easily due to the porous nature of the wood, that very same feature I'm hoping will allow treatment to prolong the material,

Pine tar also does have the limiting factor of turning wood much darker which can be seen in my second tanuki... Which is subpar dispite my best efforts the material I think was too old to work into the deadwood,

Hopefully photos illustrate the color difference significantly enough, I like how they all look but it's certainly not a traditional nor natural look,

All I can do at this point is twiddle my fingers and see how the composition ages, especially once I get to take these trees into refinement and out of growth. But that takes time so I get to smile and watch them grow.

 

[leatherback]

How much did the process set you back?

Dunno. Do not keep track. A few bucks. Maybe 10, certainly not more.
I mean a full kg of resin costs about 30 euro, and MAYBE 100g is used.. A bottle of acetone costs 7 bucks, half of which is used..