Mike Corazzi
Masterpiece
Oh, you Pollyanna, you.
Did I take off too many roots?
- Thread starter C-Jewel
- Start date
ajm55555
Chumono
- Messages
- 702
- Reaction score
- 579
- USDA Zone
- 7b
I'd give it a try, you never know, but it was a risky move for sure.
I fertilized today with bio gold, we shall see, buds are pushing
I’ve got good extension! Let’s hope this thing takes off now.
a few questions
1. Should I continue to only fertilize with bio gold? Any cheaper options? Miracle Grow maybe?
2. I’m obviously letting this thing grow wild this year, should I pull out and look at roots next year?
Thanks y’all! I appreciate all the advice and help! I’ll take the good and the bad, I’m learning by reading and trial and error
a few questions
1. Should I continue to only fertilize with bio gold? Any cheaper options? Miracle Grow maybe?
2. I’m obviously letting this thing grow wild this year, should I pull out and look at roots next year?
Thanks y’all! I appreciate all the advice and help! I’ll take the good and the bad, I’m learning by reading and trial and error
Attachments
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
You can use any fertilizer. The tree cannot read the packet. It is only interested in the nutrients and does not care how they come or how much it cost you.
Next spring would be fine to check your new roots and only then if you have had good healthy growth this summer. You probably won't be cutting a lot off again, just a look to see what happened and maybe some minor adjustments.
Next spring would be fine to check your new roots and only then if you have had good healthy growth this summer. You probably won't be cutting a lot off again, just a look to see what happened and maybe some minor adjustments.
roberthu
Chumono
I’d wait for another month or so to start using liquid fertilizer especially the inorganic soluble ones.I’ve got good extension! Let’s hope this thing takes off now.
a few questions
1. Should I continue to only fertilize with bio gold? Any cheaper options? Miracle Grow maybe?
2. I’m obviously letting this thing grow wild this year, should I pull out and look at roots next year?
Thanks y’all! I appreciate all the advice and help! I’ll take the good and the bad, I’m learning by reading and trial and error
Taking it out to look at the roots next year is fine as long as the tree appears healthy this year. But what are you trying to achieve by checking the roots? I don’t think you should do another root pruning next year so the purpose of checking the roots is the key.
Paradox
Marine Bonsologist
I’ve got good extension! Let’s hope this thing takes off now.
a few questions
1. Should I continue to only fertilize with bio gold? Any cheaper options? Miracle Grow maybe?
2. I’m obviously letting this thing grow wild this year, should I pull out and look at roots next year?
Thanks y’all! I appreciate all the advice and help! I’ll take the good and the bad, I’m learning by reading and trial and error
There is no need to pull it out and look at the roots next year. If the tree continues to grow well, you know the roots are fine.
Just leave it be and let it grow. I would just let it grow even next year and gain strength and root mass. You can repot it the year after that.
I guess what I am referring to on checking the roots next year is to make sure they are spread evenly to start a good nebari.
Ill keep updating throughout growing season.
Thanks for all the replies and encouragement everyone!
Paradox
Marine Bonsologist
your biggest concern is getting the tree healthy.
NEVER disturb a tree unless its necessary to do so. "Just looking" is not necessary.
You can work on nebari once the tree is healthy and vigorous
Dead trees dont make bonsai.
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Unless you are into tanuki of course
well the tree survived this year! Hoping for a good growing season this next year!
My thought is to continue fertilizing and letting grow unchecked this year. I am also going to apply a new layer of spagnum moss that is sieved threw mesh screen to ensure adequate surface root development....
I do think I need to dig into that wound a bit with some knob cutters to help the healing and transition.
1. Am I correct to do that now? Or should I wait until right before spring?
2. Should I prune off anything or let it grow unchecked this year?
I’ll take any advice as this is my first long term chop and 15 year project.
thanks for everything everyone! And a Merry Christmas to all!
My thought is to continue fertilizing and letting grow unchecked this year. I am also going to apply a new layer of spagnum moss that is sieved threw mesh screen to ensure adequate surface root development....
I do think I need to dig into that wound a bit with some knob cutters to help the healing and transition.
1. Am I correct to do that now? Or should I wait until right before spring?
2. Should I prune off anything or let it grow unchecked this year?
I’ll take any advice as this is my first long term chop and 15 year project.
thanks for everything everyone! And a Merry Christmas to all!
Dav4
Drop Branch Murphy
- Messages
- 13,600
- Reaction score
- 32,969
- USDA Zone
- 6a
If the wood in the chop isn't punky, I'd leave it alone, assuming it's carved fairly flush with the callus, though I might apply wood hardener to keep it that way. This spring, as the tree starts to grow, I'd rewound the edge of the callus then seal with duct seal, then let the top grow unhindered to help the callus cover the chop. The following year, plan on chopping the leader to begin the development of a new trunk section.
leatherback
The Treedeemer
I usually remove all growth around a cut site, except for the leader. This includes side branches in the first inch or so on the leader to avoid any knuckles around the cut.
Ok, so should I take off #1 and would I leave #2 to become the new leader? Then next year cut off the main leader above #2 to begin taper?
Attachments
leatherback
The Treedeemer
I think I would take both of these off, and let the current main branch grow to get a lot more closing on the chop.
Ok, so I shouldn’t worry about trying to keep any lower branches right now?
Davidlpf
Chumono
I'm glad that it is still alive, congratulations.
IMHO, it would be better get rid of the straight main branch ASAP, replace the trunk line with a new shoot, wire it, and let it grow. In long term it will produce better taper and movement.
Greetings.
IMHO, it would be better get rid of the straight main branch ASAP, replace the trunk line with a new shoot, wire it, and let it grow. In long term it will produce better taper and movement.
Greetings.
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
Maples are very good at growing new buds on bare wood so there's no need to keep lower branches at this stage.
I would also retain the thicker trunk. It is far thinner than the base so will still give the required taper when the time comes. It is likely you will chop a few inches above the scar when it is time to chop. That will give a change of direction in the trunk as well as adding more taper. removing that thicker trunk and starting again with thinner shoots will add years to the job of getting good taper from the thicker part to the new section.
You have a big scar to close. I would leave as much growth as possible to help that process. Reducing the trunk and replacing with new shoots will be necessary but doing that now will almost stop healing of the wound. Plenty of time for that in the future. This one is a multi year project.
What @Davidlpf has suggested is the way to go eventually but not yet. Get the scar to close first.
It looks like the dead wood is above the live bark at the edges. I find that often happens if large wounds are not sealed right after the cut is made. The tree may be able to heal over that but it will take extra years for the bark to grow up the edges and over the wound. I would trim the dead wood down to level or just below the live edges so the new growth can start rolling over the wound quicker. You may be able to reduce the wood with knob cutters but I have not found it as easy as it sounds. I prefer the arbortech cutting blade for this job. It cuts quick and makes a slight hollow.
Seal the area after you reduce the dead wood. Sealing definitely speeds up the process here.
Davidlpf
Chumono
Hi.
In the magazine Bonsai Actual, nº116, there is an article about how replacing the canopy in A. buergerianum, and they said that is better, in order to avoid create new big scars, closing the wound with the new growth of the trunk line, making leader changes annually.
Maybe it is different with A. palmatum, but I think that it has sense to me to use the same principle.
Cheers and Happy new year!!
In the magazine Bonsai Actual, nº116, there is an article about how replacing the canopy in A. buergerianum, and they said that is better, in order to avoid create new big scars, closing the wound with the new growth of the trunk line, making leader changes annually.
Maybe it is different with A. palmatum, but I think that it has sense to me to use the same principle.
Cheers and Happy new year!!
Attachments
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Dificult balance I feel. You need a lot of topgrowth to close bug cuts. Girth growth increases more or less expotentially with the increase of height as far as I can tell. In other words, letting a leader grow to two metres twice, will get you much less girth than letting the leader grow to 4 metres once. But yeah, also a much larger cut.
I think a balance, even more frequent chopping would be a way to go.
. But we have one member here who grows trident professionally for his nursery. I gladly follow his recommendations based on years (...?) of experience.
