Dewalt Blades - Reciprocating Saw

[berobinson82]

Hi there.

This month, I started digging some local hornbeam, carpinus caroliniana, using my new Dewalt 18V cordless reciprocating saw. (that was wordy)

I was wondering for those of you using similar tools, if it is normal to have to switch out blades after every tree you dig up. I'm not about to go back to using a hand saw, but find it ridiculous that every stump requires a fresh $3 9" blade.

Am I using the wrong blades?

http://www.dewalt.com/tool-parts/reciprocating-saw-blades-wood-cutting-blades.aspx

Thanks. If any of these suckers live, and they should, I'll make a mega post to show you what I found.

 

[Poink88]

I use these carbide tipped blades...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pack-9-3T...970?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5647613f3a

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-DIABLO-SA...964?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6906a43c

Been going through a lot of rocks, sand, brick, etc. and still on the original/first blades. They do not cut as fast as wood blades but great on dirt application.

Good luck!

 

[fore]

And, Depot/Loewes sells cheaper brands of blades than Dewalt.

 

[Poink88]

I also plan on re-sharpening the Bosch 3tpi when it gets dull using Dremel with diamond bit. Should be easy esp since it is only 3tpi.

(I used to sharpen by bandsaw blades using the same tool so I know it is doable)

 

[berobinson82]

I use these carbide tipped blades...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pack-9-3T...970?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5647613f3a

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-DIABLO-SA...964?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6906a43c

Been going through a lot of rocks, sand, brick, etc. and still on the original/first blades. They do not cut as fast as wood blades but great on dirt application.

Good luck!

For the price difference, does one brand work better than the other?

 

[gergwebber]

I like demolition blades anytime dirt is involved:

http://www.dewalt.com/tool-parts/reciprocating-saw-blades-demolition-blades.aspx

All brands make some sort of demolition blade for different materials. Wood will work fastest, and dull fastest, but they are all headed for the trash eventually anyway.

plus for digging, it might be nice to use a 9" or even longer, but be careful as they will bend easier.

 

[Poink88]

For the price difference, does one brand work better than the other?

The 3tpi doesn't clog as easily as the other when you are working on clay soil. I haven't really compared but I believe the cheaper 6tpi blade actually cut faster on wood.

Other differences between the two; the 3tpi is thicker and flex less...so I have that actually in 12" long and use the 9" 6tpi for shallower cuts. I like to have that 12" reach when doing the diagonal cut to get the roots going down.

Also as mentioned above...I can sharpen the 3tpi faster (less teeth LOL )

 

[Ken Duncan]

I use 9" pruning blades from Lowe's, 3 for about $11.00. You can also find 12" pruning blades at Home Depot.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_27179-70-PC760R_4294707863__?productId=1208287&Ntt=saw+blades

 

[Bonsai Nut]

Wood blades sound like the natural choice, and they WILL cut wood the fastest, but the slightest grit will dull them almost instantly (similar to chain saw blades).

In addition to what other people are suggesting, try diamond grit blades. They are designed for cutting stone, cast iron, tile, etc - brittle stuff that they "file" instead of "cut". They will go through wood more slowly - but they will NOT dull in sand or gritty conditions. They are good for cutting roots below the soil line (where you can never get the grit off the roots before cutting). They can also be used to cut terracotta and for other misc bonsai purposes.

Stuff like:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_294633-28303-ES-10833_0__?productId=1208655

 

[Poink88]

Wood blades sound like the natural choice, and they WILL cut wood the fastest, but the slightest grit will dull them almost instantly (similar to chain saw blades).

In addition to what other people are suggesting, try diamond grit blades. They are designed for cutting stone, cast iron, tile, etc. They will cut wood more slowly - but they will NOT dull in sand or gritty conditions.

Stuff like:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_294633-28303-ES-10833_0__?productId=1208655

They work in totally dry conditions (or continuously flushed setting) but will get loaded fast with soil/mud and won't cut (just slide) shortly after. Note that wood (if still alive) have moisture and that is enough to make a paste when collecting trees.

This is one reason why I like 3tpi with wide teeth spacing (and bigger gullet).

 

[Poink88]

Just to clarify, my recommendation is for reciprocating saw blade used to collect trees in ground or cutting dirty roots after.

Top and clean wood is obviously better chopped with wood blade.

 

[bob shimon]

I collect sierra junipers and encounter dirt, rocks, and decomposed granite. The best blade that I have found is made by Vermont American and called "the ugly." I noticed on line that Skil also makes a blade called "the Ugly," but i've never used it and am not sure if it is the same. Good luck

 

[berobinson82]

Thank you for the replies gents

Alright! I've ordered a few from amazon and picked up the diamond tipped one from Lowe's.

It does seem that the blade dulls when I'm sawing roots rather than chopping the trunk. It would make sense to me that the sandy soil is the culprit as these hornbeam are growing near the banks of streams.

Thanks again for the input gentlemen.

 

[Kevster]

Since I use these blades all the time I can say from experience brand names don't matter when it comes to cutting into the dirt.

I have never tried any of the cast iron blades for cutting wood since I get all my blades free BUT there is one blade for cutting cast iron (I do this a lot when cutting cast iron pipe) that is worth every ounce in gold. And that is the Lenox Diamond Blade. 1 blade will set you back $20. But when we cut cast iron these blades last at least 4 times longer then any other type.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3685704&cagpspn=pla

 

[Zach Smith]

Hi there.

This month, I started digging some local hornbeam, carpinus caroliniana, using my new Dewalt 18V cordless reciprocating saw. (that was wordy)

I was wondering for those of you using similar tools, if it is normal to have to switch out blades after every tree you dig up. I'm not about to go back to using a hand saw, but find it ridiculous that every stump requires a fresh $3 9" blade.

Am I using the wrong blades?

http://www.dewalt.com/tool-parts/reciprocating-saw-blades-wood-cutting-blades.aspx

Thanks. If any of these suckers live, and they should, I'll make a mega post to show you what I found.

I use the 6" or 12" Milwaukee pruning blades (Home Depot, five for I believe $14-15 or one for $8, respectively) depending on application, and usually they're good for a number of trees. I don't recall ever getting in a situation where it was one tree, one blade. But I don't typically have any rock to deal with.

I'd say try the Milwaukee brand and see if they work better for you.

Zach

 

[Poink88]

I use the 6" or 12" Milwaukee pruning blades (Home Depot, five for I believe $14-15 or one for $8, respectively) depending on application, and usually they're good for a number of trees. I don't recall ever getting in a situation where it was one tree, one blade. But I don't typically have any rock to deal with.

I'd say try the Milwaukee brand and see if they work better for you.

Zach

Zach, I always encounter rocks here. In natural setting, most are the typical; caliche, TX holey rocks, sand, pebbles, and river rocks. In residential areas, I encounter same PLUS bricks, concrete, CMU, scrap metal, etc. Some people just throw any debris in those planting holes!!!

I love it when I collect on pure soil...it is like heaven and usually have the plant out in less than 5 minutes. LOL That...against possible hours when there are rocks.

 

[Zach Smith]

Zach, I always encounter rocks here. In natural setting, most are the typical; caliche, TX holey rocks, sand, pebbles, and river rocks. In residential areas, I encounter same PLUS bricks, concrete, CMU, scrap metal, etc. Some people just throw any debris in those planting holes!!!

I love it when I collect on pure soil...it is like heaven and usually have the plant out in less than 5 minutes. LOL That...against possible hours when there are rocks.

Yeah, 5 minutes is about the max, with a few exceptions here and there.

I feel your pain on the rocks and stuff. My addition to this is from a bald cypress dig this past weekend, where I seemingly hit the "mother load" of broken bottles and, for the grand prize, a complete intact bottle enclosed in roots. I resisted the urge to do a "root around bottle" planting.

Cheers,

Zach

 

[gergwebber]

Oh, and sometimes I use a shovel to dig trees!

 

[Vance Wood]

Oh, and sometimes I use a shovel to dig trees!

Who-da-thunk-it? Old military intrenching tool works well because it can double as an ax.

 

[Poink88]

Oh, and sometimes I use a shovel to dig trees!

He-he-he...I thought we were only talking about recip saw blades.

My tree collecting/digging arsenal is much more than that.
28V Sawzall/recip saw plus extra battery
Lopper
Pruning saw
Transplanting/trenching shovel
Large pick
Small pick
Throwel
Crowbar
Hatchet/hammer
Machete
Come-along
Chisel
Cheap concave cutter

Trash bags
Packing tape
Heavy duty carrying bag
Rope
Goggles
Gloves
Back support
Water bottle
etc.

Most stay in my vehicle and just get pulled when needed. I haven't gone real "yamadori" hunting but if I do, I know this list will be reduced tremendously.