Big Trident Layers

Smoke

Ignore-Amus
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Fresno, CA
USDA Zone
9
In a recent thread I mentioned a couple tridents that I had that were growing in 15 gallon buckets on the ground. They have escaped and have been pushing growth steady since 2011. They were dug from a growing field at that time. Since one has ballooned to a 5 inch trunk, as it had been in full sun since that time. The other still has about a 3.5 inch trunk as it has been in the shade of yard trees only recieving a few hours of morning sun. That second trunk was only discovered tonight and I will explore that tomorrow as it looks like a perfect Mother daughter project.

EDIT: I checked already and it was just the position of that leaf. Damn!

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The top of the full sun trident...Trunks is about 3 inches across on this one.DSC_0004.JPG

The top of the smaller trident. Trunk on this one is about 2.5 inches.

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If possible it would be cool to layer it an angle to make use of rotating the tree up to this angle.

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Cool, Al. That angle should layer just right for a cool tree.
Will you be airlayering them both?
The proposed layer looks very spooky and very ugly. I like it.
 
I figured as much, just wondering if you had an overall two tree plan or a wait and see on the bottom. I have one I want to layer and then replant the bottom in the ground to grow into a clump.
 
You have my respect with your ability with maples...they scare me with all their fungus issues I seen this year alone.
This has been a bad year here too. I have never had the issues I have seen this year. We had a record year for rain and snow, and lots of humidity this year the we never get so fungus has been especially bad.

I just have to remember...This too shall pass....
 
This has been a bad year here too. I have never had the issues I have seen this year. We had a record year for rain and snow, and lots of humidity this year the we never get so fungus has been especially bad.

I just have to remember...This too shall pass....

In other words, winter is coming
 
In other words, winter is coming
yea...that's the main problem..its winter that sets the tree up for problems next year. Many people think this fungus thing is a day by day thing. It's not, the fungus gets in the plant during winter and manifests in spring and then stuck all summer. Fungicides do not cure the fungus, they just help prevent it from coming back. keeping the tree sprayed and using dormant control ( dilute lime sulphur) in winter is best.

This year for me started out the best I ever had. Absolutely no fungus from January till June. Then when it heated up and I began watering so much thats when the problems crop up. I'm still OK but it has been a bad year for fungus.
 
yea...that's the main problem..its winter that sets the tree up for problems next year. Many people think this fungus thing is a day by day thing. It's not, the fungus gets in the plant during winter and manifests in spring and then stuck all summer. Fungicides do not cure the fungus, they just help prevent it from coming back. keeping the tree sprayed and using dormant control ( dilute lime sulphur) in winter is best.

This year for me started out the best I ever had. Absolutely no fungus from January till June. Then when it heated up and I began watering so much thats when the problems crop up. I'm still OK but it has been a bad year for fungus.

We dont get fungus here when its 30 degrees. Usually start seeing things in spring and if its a wet/humid year like this year. Hasnt been too bad here this year though....*knocks on wood*
 
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So.... began work on the tree tonight.

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The two cuts for the layer have been done using a small sharp saw. I cut into the hardwood about less than a 1/16 but gave me a clean edge to work with. It will be cleaned up with a sharp knife later. There is lots of scarring in the layer area and all the stubs where I took branches out in prep for the layer. The are that I hope to have roots is really a mess and I hope this thing does what I want cause the tree on top will be really special. the total height of the tree will be about ten inches tall with a three inch trunk.

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Now the bark has been cleaned away and the tree will sit over night and them wiped down with peroxide and be ready for the soil. Sitting overnight just makes sure any live cells left in the peeled area are dried out and dead.

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I went ahead and used a basket I had and prepared it for the tree tomorrow and the soil.

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That’s very interesting. After scrapping away bark and cambium layer, down to the heart wood (correct if wrong), you leave overnight.
I’ve never heard that little added technique before.. what made you start doing that and have you experienced it making a difference?
 
That’s very interesting. After scrapping away bark and cambium layer, down to the heart wood (correct if wrong), you leave overnight.
I’ve never heard that little added technique before.. what made you start doing that and have you experienced it making a difference?

As stated above, by leaving the scraped section to dry, you greatly minimize, if not 100% kill the chances of the tree healing over. He will probably re-cut the the top side of this section to get fresh cells before applying the airlayer.
 
As stated above, by leaving the scraped section to dry, you greatly minimize, if not 100% kill the chances of the tree healing over. He will probably re-cut the the top side of this section to get fresh cells before applying the airlayer.

Thanks but that’s not what I asked. I read the comment correctly and understood that part.

What I asked was, what made him start doing that (one doesn’t usually just have a premonition of a brilliant idea and do it although it’s possible of course) and also has he experienced it making a difference.
So, again, thanks for trying to answer on his behalf but that wasn’t what I asked and I’d like to know from Smoke, given his experience.
 
So did this layer take? Apologies if there was another thread and I missed it.
 
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