Big Trident Layers

Thanks but that’s not what I asked. I read the comment correctly and understood that part.

What I asked was, what made him start doing that (one doesn’t usually just have a premonition of a brilliant idea and do it although it’s possible of course) and also has he experienced it making a difference.
So, again, thanks for trying to answer on his behalf but that wasn’t what I asked and I’d like to know from Smoke, given his experience.
There used to be a guy named Ripsgreentree that was very vocal about bonsai on bonsaiTALK. The net was a flame about the fights Rips and I used to have. We got nicknamed Itchy and Scratchy after the duo on "the Simpsons" that fought all the time. In real life Glen VanWinkle ( his real name) and I were best of friends. Just another reason the internet is a poor medium of judging character. We used to laugh about it when we would meet at the local bonsai nursery and come up with new reasons to fight on the net. Then sit back and laugh...

I was having a hard time with bridging in my maples. Tridents are such fast growers that the plant would start bridging while I'm peeling the bark off! I asked Glen what I should do. Glen is one of the best Propagators in the state back in the day. His material is all over the USA and was used and sold by people like Ted Matson, Boon Manakitivipart, Kenji Miyata and many more. He sold many of these people material for workshops and for specimen bonsai. I only have one piece in my collection from Glen. It is a clump style Elm that I was able to make root cuttings of Neagari style bonsai from. The clump is doing pretty well too.

So Glen told me to let the tree sit a day after peeling, even two days. There will be no harm. Just make sure the cambium is good and dry before covering with medium.

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So did this layer take? Apologies if there was another thread and I missed it.
Oh yea... The trees all have roots and will be taken in the Spring. I could take them now but why sever them and force them thru winter as new plants. Spring will be good with the new root activity in the Spring.DSC_0005.JPG

The one on the right is a big cork bark elm. I am taking off the tree on top.

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The maple in the middle above is the subject of this thread and was not able to take the tree last year. This tree has been really stubborn about issuing roots. Could be the size of the trunk is just so large that it need more top to grow roots, I don't know. I switched from the basket and soil to plastic wrap and moss. I have no idea if that was a factor but I have roots now. So, there you go.

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The leaves are very papery and I just went ahead and took them off so you can see the trunk. I'm not too worried about branch placements at this point since I can grow all new ones in a couple seasons.

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This is around the later planting angle?

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There used to be a guy named Ripsgreentree that was very vocal about bonsai on bonsaiTALK. The net was a flame about the fights Rips and I used to have. We got nicknamed Itchy and Scratchy after the duo on "the Simpsons" that fought all the time. In real life Glen VanWinkle ( his real name) and I were best of friends. Just another reason the internet is a poor medium of judging character. We used to laugh about it when we would meet at the local bonsai nursery and come up with new reasons to fight on the net. Then sit back and laugh...

I was having a hard time with bridging in my maples. Tridents are such fast growers that the plant would start bridging while I'm peeling the bark off! I asked Glen what I should do. Glen is one of the best Propagators in the state back in the day. His material is all over the USA and was used and sold by people like Ted Matson, Boon Manakitivipart, Kenji Miyata and many more. He sold many of these people material for workshops and for specimen bonsai. I only have one piece in my collection from Glen. It is a clump style Elm that I was able to make root cuttings of Neagari style bonsai from. The clump is doing pretty well too.

So Glen told me to let the tree sit a day after peeling, even two days. There will be no harm. Just make sure the cambium is good and dry before covering with medium.

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thanks :) obviously forgot I asked that question. But good to know, very interesting, thank you. The technique came from a well experienced source.
I’m glad they are all doing well.
 
I have this signature Bigei that would be just right for the cork bark Elm. If it fits I will be happy. The base of the layer is about 3.25 inches. I don't know if this pot will accommodate it. That part of the problem with taking large diameter shohin trees. If you have to put it into a Kifu or Chuin pot it defeats the whole reason for taking out the large tree. In that case it would be better to take a taller layer for the larger pot. We'll know in a couple months.
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Ripsgreentree, (Glen VanWinkle/Rip VanWinkle)
This photo at the local Bonsai Nursery, Nee-Hai

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Out at the field making Calidama soil. Rips sold tons of this stuff thru the years. Literally tons, think 30 or more. His custom built shaker for sifting.

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Alternating demo at the California Shohin Convetion in 2012. Ted Matson and Glen

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I remember him advertising the Calidama a few years ago. Is he still selling it?
 
I remember him advertising the Calidama a few years ago. Is he still selling it?
Nope, just physically not able any more. He sold off most of his trees and just concentrates on staying alive now.
 
I'm sorry to hear that. Good health is a gift that a lot of us take for granted.
 
Your going to see shifts in soil sooner rather than later. It's starting to become much easier.
 
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