Advice on another Stewartia trunk chop

[Josh88]

So I had to go with my gut on this one, and go high. I felt that the low chop wouldn’t do justice to the leaf and flower size unless they reduced drastically. I had my little helper with me to make sure I was making good decisions, and to hold some branches out of the way so the picture would better show what I am thinking here. I see bringing the new leader back to the right to keep the gentle graceful movement, and use the second branch on the right and first branch on the left to create an elegant vase shape. Leaving the low branch on the right to keep running and thicken the base a bit more for taper. If I decide I was wrong I can always chop again next year, but this is what I saw when I bought the tree and I’m gonna give the design a go. If I stick with it then root work begins next spring. Thank you for everyone’s input and advice and I’ll update as it moves along.

 

[JudyB]

I like it. It will lend itself to a tall and graceful tree.

 

[Pitoon]

How's the tree coming along?

 

[Josh88]

How's the tree coming along?

It's growing well, but the new leader is a ways away from being thick enough for the next trunk section. I'm expecting at least another growing season or three before the next cutback for taper.

 

[JudyB]

Did you put it in the ground?

 

[Josh88]

Did you put it in the ground?

I didn't. It's still in the nursery container.

 

[JudyB]

I didn't. It's still in the nursery container.

If you have space, I imagine development will be light years faster, and you will get far better chop healing. I’ve seen some of @Owen Reich stewartias that were field grown, and they look like they develop better in ground.

 

[Josh88]

If you have space, I imagine development will be light years faster, and you will get far better chop healing. I’ve seen some of @Owen Reich stewartias that were field grown, and they look like they develop better in ground.

When I redo the landscaping at our house I plan on setting up an area for ground growing, but at the moment the nursery can will have to do. I appreciate the advice greatly, but can’t yet put it to good use.

 

[Potawatomi13]

I’m on team “chop above the second branch” and also team “go get it!” I look forward to the updates

Seconded.

 

[Owen Reich]

It's growing well, but the new leader is a ways away from being thick enough for the next trunk section. I'm expecting at least another growing season or three before the next cutback for taper.

It appears to be Stewartia pseudocamellia. Possibly another one but would need to see the flowers and leaves.

In container culture using heavy peat and pine bark mixes, they can get fungal infections in their roots pretty easily. They love akadama mixes with good drainage from pumice (and a little lava) in my experience. I add a heavy handful of charcoal just be safe.

A final big trunk chop shouldn’t be done until the tree is well rooted in good mix or well rooted in a grow bed in my experience. I also think they really like products like Rhizotonic and sea kelp to increase microbial activity in the soil / media. Covering surface with finely chopped or milled sphagnum is a must.

 

[Owen Reich]

Go big or go home on height imo. They look coarse and clunky as small trees.

Stewartia monadelpha looks good in any size. Here’s one I’ll be keeping from the big group I’m selling now:
Doesn’t look like much now, but the base is 8” and will finish out at 4’ with a 2’ wide flare in about 5-7 years.the last one is one of my teacher’s father’s trees he started from a cutting.

 

[Josh88]

It appears to be Stewartia pseudocamellia. Possibly another one but would need to see the flowers and leaves.

In container culture using heavy peat and pine bark mixes, they can get fungal infections in their roots pretty easily. They love akadama mixes with good drainage from pumice (and a little lava) in my experience. I add a heavy handful of charcoal just be safe.

A final big trunk chop shouldn’t be done until the tree is well rooted in good mix or well rooted in a grow bed in my experience. I also think they really like products like Rhizotonic and sea kelp to increase microbial activity in the soil / media. Covering surface with finely chopped or milled sphagnum is a must.

Thank you for your input Owen! I surely appreciate you sharing your experience and expertise. I will get it into better soil this Spring and try the Rhizotonic. How well do they take to heavy root pruning? That last picture is a beast!

 

[Owen Reich]

S. pseudocamellia I don’t have as much experience with. I wouldn’t get too aggressive with initial rootmass reduction. S. monadelpha on the other hand, can handle some serious root mass removal.

 

[JudyB]

How well do they take to heavy root pruning?

The S. Pseudocamellia that I have been developing is not too cranky about root work as long as the aftercare is good. Mine did sulk for a while after my initial round of removals, but didn't loose any branches.

 

[pweifan]

the last one is one of my teacher’s father’s trees he started from a cutting.

I didn't think they could be grown from cuttings! That's fascinating to find out Do you know how he was able to pull it off?

 

[Owen Reich]

I didn't think they could be grown from cuttings! That's fascinating to find out Do you know how he was able to pull it off?

It's difficult to say whether is was the sacrifice of the baby fur seal, earnest chanting, or the clouds of cigarette smoke that led to rooting success.

Minoru Fujikawa may have just bought it from someone else or it was a seedling. It was never clearly explained as to whether it was a "misho" (seedling) or "sashiki" (rooted cutting). Here's something to read on the matter. My past professors (Dirr and Smalley) of the University of Georgia are mentioned fairly often: https://www.extension.iastate.edu/vegetablelab/files/research/files/Stewartia review article-Ajay.pdf

The text mentions air layering as a viable means of propagation, which I have seen done many times in Japan. Purchasing Stewartia seed of any type will have highly variable germination rates in my experience. I've heard the Chinese species are easier to overwinter the first year from seed.

 

[Wilson]

Hey @Josh88 how has this been growing for you? I have one that I am looking forward to working with.

 

[Josh88]

Hey @Josh88 how has this been growing for you? I have one that I am looking forward to working with.

It has been very slow going with this one. I was not able to repot it this year due to an injury that kept me from repotting any of my larger trees, and the growth has been decent but not vigorous. It has had what seems to be leaf scorch issues the last two growing seasons, and that has set it back significantly, so some afternoon shade will be in order if we get hot again this year. The lower branches have grown very well but what I left as the new leader has remained weak and I haven't gotten the back budding or thickening I need for development. I'm hoping to get it into good soil next spring and hopefully can get it happy and healthy enough to push some serious growth and take some steps forward. Lots of watering and waiting for this one this year...

 

[Paulpash]

Go big or go home on height imo. They look coarse and clunky as small trees.

Stewartia monadelpha looks good in any size. Here’s one I’ll be keeping from the big group I’m selling now:
View attachment 211167Doesn’t look like much now, but the base is 8” and will finish out at 4’ with a 2’ wide flare in about 5-7 years.View attachment 211168View attachment 211169the last one is one of my teacher’s father’s trees he started from a cutting.

Is this the best way to propagate Stewartia? Have you any experience as to how they air layer, @Owen Reich ?

 

[Owen Reich]

They air layer and ground layer easily. This tree was 20’ tall with a few low branches two years ago. I’ll be posting on Instagram (@owenbonsai) a lot more soon. Please forgive the mess . Building my bonsai garden in East Nashville this, and next week.