Orion_metalhead
Masterpiece
I see a cool final result and I like the large chunky end result. I still think that the loss of future air layers and other material in the haste to get a dramatic transformation and start now is regrettable.
A beginners jump into the yamadori deep end
- Thread starter Sixty’s
- Start date
clem
Chumono
I don't know if this tree will survive or make a sap withdrawal, but, for me, the trunk line selection is good (for this tree and also for the last one you showed that has recover). For me the shape of the tree before was more suitable for a "Niwaki" because it had long sections of trunk that were stiff and without any taper. Your tree now has a good taper and trunk movements.
In my experience, it is better to make large cuts in summer on a vigorous tree. For example, on this tree, you put the 1rst pic tree (with all the branches) in a pot, you let it recover, become stronger for 1 year or 2. And then, in summer, for example August, you trim it severely like your did a few days ago. Normally, in my experience, new buds (and new branches with leaves) appears 3 weeks after trimming.
show us the rest of its evolution, please
In my experience, it is better to make large cuts in summer on a vigorous tree. For example, on this tree, you put the 1rst pic tree (with all the branches) in a pot, you let it recover, become stronger for 1 year or 2. And then, in summer, for example August, you trim it severely like your did a few days ago. Normally, in my experience, new buds (and new branches with leaves) appears 3 weeks after trimming.
show us the rest of its evolution, please
Sixty’s
Mame
Most of what is gone had inverse taper or straight as a pole. Imo they weren’t really worth wasting time with.
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Will need a few days to recover from seeing this thread.
Helpfull note: If you want those root-cuts to pop new roots ake sure they stay well-burried. If the cut ends stick out of the soil the tendency is that they are bad at re-sprouting roots.
Helpfull note: If you want those root-cuts to pop new roots ake sure they stay well-burried. If the cut ends stick out of the soil the tendency is that they are bad at re-sprouting roots.
Gabler
Masterpiece
If the tree recovers and heals those wounds, it could make for an excellent "sumo" tree. That's not my sense of style, but it's also not my tree, and I'm not the one who would have to rent a skid loader to move it around if more of those branches were left in place.
RoadManDenDron
Chumono
Yes he primarily uses it for larger hardwood cuttings,
If you've seen any of the shohin and mame trees he has been displaying in the last few years, all have been from cuttings.
I would highly recommend his talks or at the least speaking to someone who has seen and understood it!
@Sixty’s think less like an air layer and more like almost instant shohin and mame, small section of trunk into new leader and branches, 3 year project to a finished small tree
Sixty’s
Mame
The tree did had a lot of defects, and as you pointed out. Hopefully buds will start showing up soon and just let it do it’s thing this season.I don't know if this tree will survive or make a sap withdrawal, but, for me, the trunk line selection is good (for this tree and also for the last one you showed that has recover). For me the shape of the tree before was more suitable for a "Niwaki" because it had long sections of trunk that were stiff and without any taper. Your tree now has a good taper and trunk movements.
In my experience, it is better to make large cuts in summer on a vigorous tree. For example, on this tree, you put the 1rst pic tree (with all the branches) in a pot, you let it recover, become stronger for 1 year or 2. And then, in summer, for example August, you trim it severely like your did a few days ago. Normally, in my experience, new buds (and new branches with leaves) appears 3 weeks after trimming.
show us the rest of its evolution, please
thanks they are at decent dept with plenty of finer roots to sustain the tree meanwhile
RoadManDenDron
Chumono
@Sixty’s and anyone else interested I just posted the simple set up of this system here
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/aeroponic-propagation-of-jm-cuttings.64968/#post-1129473
Sadly only my example pics, but I have personally seen the talk and examples of the large cuttings possible with this method
I now make almost all of my cuttings this way
Likebull1
Mame
Any updates on this one?
Sixty’s
Mame
There is a few buds starting to push through, it’s a really thick bark.
Should have a better update in a few weeks.
Likebull1
Mame
Can't wait! I've been following this one for a while and I really like the choices you made. Not what I would have done but you definitely saw something I didn't.
Sixty’s
Mame
It’s really taking its time to come out and play. It also appears that it will have two different varieties in the mix.
Sixty’s
Mame
First leaves
gooeytek
Shohin
It's good seeing new growth, I hope it makes a full recovery. What are your plans for overwintering?
Sixty’s
Mame
For the time being it doesn’t look too bad, I should have enough new shoots next year to look at some tread grafts along the cuts to aid healing in 2026. As the bark starts rolling I would have to look at removing some of it.
Sixty’s
Mame
Thank you, me too it has been taking ages to come through, I believe we still have another 3 months here in the uk to get some growth before the winter start, as long as we get that I may not have to give it any protection over the winter period it’s in a big pot so hopefully should be safe
RoadManDenDron
Chumono
Don't count on it!
Looks like autumn coming in already!
We might not get freeze til early next year but leaves will have dropped and growth will stop much before then
Make sure you have a back up plan in place,
This is too nice a trunk to risk losing
Sixty’s
Mame
Last year leafs only started falling mid November, I have a few large frost protection bags and space under the benches for some of the most sensitive trees as a back up plan.
