1st attempt Chinese Elm Cuttings Successful!!!

power270lb

Shohin
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Location
Bayonne, NJ
USDA Zone
7b
Took 9 Chinese Elm Cuttings and stuck in a mix of 2/3 perlite 1/3 Fox farms ocean soil, covered in a plastic bag and put a low intensity light on it misting whenever I saw the bag not filled with humidity and they all have new leaves. Tbh I'm actually shocked I didn't think this was going to work. No idea what to do next. Do I leave in the bag? Transfer under my more intense grow light (I have a great indoor setup with mylar curtains but this is only for winter I just started in November) Watering? When do I transfer to a better soil medium?
 

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How long have they been in there?

I wouldn't change anything for a while.

Those new leaves will show you what you are doing right and wrong. Sounds Goldilocks right now.

Sorce
As of today it's officially 2 weeks. Copy that, what about watering? I've been spraying water a lot and once a week take take the bag off to let breathe.
 
If they're pushing growth from fresh buds, they are also pushing roots. I would leave them alone until the new growth is at least several inches long, at which point your roots will be as well. Keep the air around the foliage humid until the roots are established.

I never messed with elm cuttings for at least the first six weeks, though I have not tried them under artificial lighting, either.
 
As of today it's officially 2 weeks. Copy that, what about watering? I've been spraying water a lot and once a week take take the bag off to let breathe.
I agree with @sorce . I had a similar setup that I used for lavender star cuttings I took in late December. It was entirely an experiment to see how long it would take to form roots, so I kept track of how long it would take to start callousing and then forming root buds at the cut site. While they are completely different species, from what I have read, they are both tough trees that can be grown from cuttings pretty easily so I would assume they would have similar requirements/schedules, not to mention they are both semi-tropical or very close to it.

So far about 2/3 of the cuttings actually produced roots. I found that the older the wood, the less likely to form roots. And obviously since I was just experimenting and removing them from the soil for about 10 seconds once a week to inspect, it may have had an adverse impact on root formation. Also, I used a perlite/DE mix that was about 50/50, maybe leaning a bit more to the perlite side.

Week 1: Nothing
Week 2: All but one cutting had began to form callus around the cut site
Week 3: Not much change
Week 4: one cutting had began to form what appeared to be a single root bud
Week 5: All the cuttings had formed callus, the other cuttings had formed at least one root bud (excluding the 1/3 that would not form roots)
Week 6: I forgot to check, too much school work
Week 7: roots on the largest cutting had begun to branch, roots formed out of the buds on the remaining cuttings. Not root buds from the remaining 1/3.
Week 8: roots from the 2/3 of the cuttings that formed roots had grown to at least 3/4-1 inch in length.
Week 9: the most vigorous cutting began forming its first new bud. No root inspection

That was last weekend. I removed the humidity dome after I saw the new bud forming but have continued to mist as much as I can remember and the cuttings are still sitting on a humidity tray far away from heating vents. If I were you, I would keep them as is for as long as possible and at least for 8-10 weeks. It appears that you have about the same size/intensity light that I'm using so my assumption is that the timing would be relatively similar.
 
Just keep in mind that new growth is adjusted to high humidity. Sudden reductions of humidity might act as a foliage crisper: Reduce humidity over a week or two my making a few small openings in the bag, increasing over time.
 
I was going to say use a clear container, but you have!

There isn't a more accurate way to determine what you need to do, and when you have enough roots!

Sorce
 
Just keep in mind that new growth is adjusted to high humidity. Sudden reductions of humidity might act as a foliage crisper: Reduce humidity over a week or two my making a few small openings in the bag, increasing over time.
Good point, just like @Bonsai Nut said as well. I should clarify, all my cuttings are in the basement. Its constantly humid down there even with a dehumidifier running year round. Removing the humidity dome, in my case, is just to make sure that no mold forms (which has been an issue in past attempts). Since the humidity, with the humidity tray and misting, still stays well above the 60% mark I've found that no dome is necessary after I see new buds forming, but that may not be the case for everyone.
 
Good point, just like @Bonsai Nut said as well. I should clarify, all my cuttings are in the basement. Its constantly humid down there even with a dehumidifier running year round. Removing the humidity dome, in my case, is just to make sure that no mold forms (which has been an issue in past attempts). Since the humidity, with the humidity tray and misting, still stays well above the 60% mark I've found that no dome is necessary after I see new buds forming, but that may not be the case for everyone.
Yes; I was referring to cuttings outside. Not in direct sun, but plenty of dry air. If I pulled protection from them too quickly, they would crisp.
 
Really cool to see. Nice going.

I might have a use for doing this myself in the near future if I get a chinese elm Ive been eyeing
 
If they're pushing growth from fresh buds, they are also pushing roots. I would leave them alone until the new growth is at least several inches long, at which point your roots will be as well. Keep the air around the foliage humid until the roots are established.

I never messed with elm cuttings for at least the first six weeks, though I have not tried them under artificial lighting, either.
Yes I started this hobby in late November and yes taken control of my life. If anything I'm mad it took me this long to discover this amazing world. I have a way more intense setup would a move there be better? I do plan to move everything outside onto my west facing balcony. Question, balcony doesn't get sun until 230ish. Is that going to be better than my setup? Just hoping for crazy growth, I do have a south facing window that heats my kitchen in the winter to the point I sweat but it's not outdoors.
 
I agree with @sorce . I had a similar setup that I used for lavender star cuttings I took in late December. It was entirely an experiment to see how long it would take to form roots, so I kept track of how long it would take to start callousing and then forming root buds at the cut site. While they are completely different species, from what I have read, they are both tough trees that can be grown from cuttings pretty easily so I would assume they would have similar requirements/schedules, not to mention they are both semi-tropical or very close to it.

So far about 2/3 of the cuttings actually produced roots. I found that the older the wood, the less likely to form roots. And obviously since I was just experimenting and removing them from the soil for about 10 seconds once a week to inspect, it may have had an adverse impact on root formation. Also, I used a perlite/DE mix that was about 50/50, maybe leaning a bit more to the perlite side.

Week 1: Nothing
Week 2: All but one cutting had began to form callus around the cut site
Week 3: Not much change
Week 4: one cutting had began to form what appeared to be a single root bud
Week 5: All the cuttings had formed callus, the other cuttings had formed at least one root bud (excluding the 1/3 that would not form roots)
Week 6: I forgot to check, too much school work
Week 7: roots on the largest cutting had begun to branch, roots formed out of the buds on the remaining cuttings. Not root buds from the remaining 1/3.
Week 8: roots from the 2/3 of the cuttings that formed roots had grown to at least 3/4-1 inch in length.
Week 9: the most vigorous cutting began forming its first new bud. No root inspection

That was last weekend. I removed the humidity dome after I saw the new bud forming but have continued to mist as much as I can remember and the cuttings are still sitting on a humidity tray far away from heating vents. If I were you, I would keep them as is for as long as possible and at least for 8-10 weeks. It appears that you have about the same size/intensity light that I'm using so my assumption is that the timing would be relatively similar.
So far 8 of 9 have produced new leaves but I haven't checked roots. I do have a more powerful light setup which I'm debating moving to that area. I also have 50+ lbs of Diatomaceous Earth, lava rock, pumice, perlite, fir bark but right now it's 2/3 perlite and 1/3 fox farms ocean soil. Almost all my cuttings except one were in between going from green to brown stems. One was a little harder but since my mother tree the Elm has way more increased ramification and leaves are much much smaller. Thank you for the reply.
 
Just keep in mind that new growth is adjusted to high humidity. Sudden reductions of humidity might act as a foliage crisper: Reduce humidity over a week or two my making a few small openings in the bag, increasing over time.
Oh there's already a few slits that I close up upon misting, just make them larger?
 
Good point, just like @Bonsai Nut said as well. I should clarify, all my cuttings are in the basement. Its constantly humid down there even with a dehumidifier running year round. Removing the humidity dome, in my case, is just to make sure that no mold forms (which has been an issue in past attempts). Since the humidity, with the humidity tray and misting, still stays well above the 60% mark I've found that no dome is necessary after I see new buds forming, but that may not be the case for everyone.
What type of humidity meter do u use?
 
Really cool to see. Nice going.

I might have a use for doing this myself in the near future if I get a chinese elm Ive been eyeing
My parent tree initially came very dry so I watered more than normal and it exploded but the growth was very leggy and not a lot of ramification. Plus the previous owner made these cuts on the inside and it looked like a dead forest kinda tree, very peculiar cuts. So I removed some bottom shoots and cut the leggy branches, planted. Since the tree has 100x more ramification and even the dead forest vibe those branches have all new smaller buds making it bushier.
 
Oh there's already a few slits that I close up upon misting, just make them larger?
I would say, once you are convinced there are roots, as shown by strong extention growth, stop plugging the holes and misting. After a fwe days open up further?
 
What type of humidity meter do u use?
My dehumidifier 😅. I move it around the basement every few weeks and while I'm doing that I'll plug it in and run it beside the plant setup for a few minutes just to see. Its not an exact science but it gives me a ball park idea.
 
My dehumidifier 😅. I move it around the basement every few weeks and while I'm doing that I'll plug it in and run it beside the plant setup for a few minutes just to see. Its not an exact science but it gives me a ball park idea.
Haha nice I just added a pretty hardcore humidifier to my set-up
 
Haha nice I just added a pretty hardcore humidifier to my set-up
I definitely want to get an actual meter so I don't have to rely on my wonky dehumidifier experiments. Its going on my bday list along with some pots for my monster trident I got this winter. Hopefully the bday budget allows for both.
 
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