Very pleased with the Chinese Quince...

Cadillactaste said:
Phone charged...my attempt at a virtual.
Click to expand...

So far I like the way it could go honest :) Being a few year project though I would strongly suggest that you get your hands on some wood files and work on shaping that shoot as below -

20180519_143243virt.jpg

It will take awhile to heal over but so will every thing else :)

Grimmy
 
GrimLore said:
So far I like the way it could go honest :) Being a few year project though I would strongly suggest that you get your hands on some wood files and work on shaping that shoot as below -

View attachment 192871

It will take awhile to heal over but so will every thing else :)

Grimmy
Click to expand...
Thanks...that "shoot" area is a scar wound I need to work on cleaning up. (photo from page 1) it was one reason I contemplated the other side. It looks nicer...but you see better movement on this side. As Judy stated and one's agreed. I did switch to this side as a front. I am not sure I wish for such a definitive V from trunk to branch. For fear how it will heal. Healing a scar is new territory. It may be doable. But I won't be cutting or filing from the bottom. Thinking I read they don't heal well...so...baby steps. In time when I know how it behaves I may grow bolder.
image(2).jpg
 
Cadillactaste said:
For fear how it will heal. Healing a scar is new territory. It may be doable.
Click to expand...

Just a suggestion. That dead wood from the wound will not heal unattended. Removing a lot of it would not only look better but actually give you a great start on exposing the good bark at the edges a bit, seal, and overall be a far smaller wound.

As you said though not your comfort level, just trying to save you a few years is all :)

Good growing

Grimmy
 
GrimLore said:
Just a suggestion. That dead wood from the wound will not heal unattended. Removing a lot of it would not only look better but actually give you a great start on exposing the good bark at the edges a bit, seal, and overall be a far smaller wound.

As you said though not your comfort level, just trying to save you a few years is all :)

Good growing

Grimmy
Click to expand...
From what I heard...I am to drill out some of the dead wood...file around the top to get that live edge to curl. It's done in stages...from what I heard. So baby steps at the beginning. It will get done. I am not afraid to do it...but I don't see doing the bottom section in your virtual is all. (I am afraid of what the scaring would occur.) Nor...taking it completely down to a V from the top. Honestly depends on how far the dead wood goes I imagine. It's an unknown factor to me. But it will be addressed. But not on a stormy day. That's outside work. ?
 
Cadillactaste said:
From what I heard...I am to drill out some of the dead wood...file around the top to get that live edge to curl. It's done in stages...from what I heard. So baby steps at the beginning. It will get done. I am not afraid to do it...but I don't see doing the bottom section in your virtual is all. (I am afraid of what the scaring would occur.) Nor...taking it completely down to a V from the top. Honestly depends on how far the dead wood goes I imagine. It's an unknown factor to me. But it will be addressed. But not on a stormy day. That's outside work. ?
Click to expand...

You never mentioned you had a plan anyways :P For the record that size does not require a drill, I would go with various files and shape as needed then scrap the edges of the live bark, then seal...

I am certain you have received information from those you feel are far more qualified then me but honest for smaller work many overuse power tools. Most of this can be kept quite simple with excellent results and no accidents.

Grimmy
 
This is a tale of two trees.

The lower half is arrow-straight, without much taper, nor visible base. The first branch is under the trunk, which is useless to the current design; and makes no sense from a horticultural or aesthetic perspective.

The upper half reads like the bottom half was grown underground, and the grower spent 30 seconds wiring some movement into what he could see above grade.

If this was mine (and yes, I have actually done this to a disaster of a Chinese Quince I bought), this is what I would do. I would air-layer it right above the first branch. Then I’d have a nice wiggly trunk with radial nebari and continue developing the well-placed branches. I’d keep the bottom branch growing after separating the layer, and use it as a second section of trunk. That would give me a second Chinese Quince with taper and movement, and I’m not trashing whatever trunk thickness it currently has.
 
GrimLore said:
You never mentioned you had a plan anyways :p For the record that size does not require a drill, I would go with various files and shape as needed then scrap the edges of the live bark, then seal...

I am certain you have received information from those you feel are far more qualified then me but honest for smaller work many overuse power tools. Most of this can be kept quite simple with excellent results and no accidents.

Grimmy
Click to expand...
I have an entire carving set for my dremel. The dead wood is above the live edge. I feel I have more control with a dremel. Than a file. But appreciate your thought process...honest. But feel I have more control using that dremel. I have a feeling those tiny bits will make it easier.
Watched a YouTube of Graham Potter. Also Vin I think posted photos addressing tending a scar...and sealing. But...I will see what else I have. A video is much more of a good visual. If they fall in the same lines as what I have seen ones here do. I can't say I would choose someone else over your direction. When it's basically one technique for the most part. Judy addressed this out of season for me to do it. I need to do this I imagine now...for it to have a good time to heal before it goes dormant.
 
Brian Van Fleet said:
This is a tale of two trees.

The lower half is arrow-straight, without much taper, nor visible base. The first branch is under the trunk, which is useless to the current design; and makes no sense from a horticultural or aesthetic perspective.

The upper half reads like the bottom half was grown underground, and the grower spent 30 seconds wiring some movement into what he could see above grade.

If this was mine (and yes, I have actually done this to a disaster of a Chinese Quince I bought), this is what I would do. I would air-layer it right above the first branch. Then I’d have a nice wiggly trunk with radial nebari and continue developing the well-placed branches. I’d keep the bottom branch growing after separating the layer, and use it as a second section of trunk. That would give me a second Chinese Quince with taper and movement, and I’m not trashing whatever trunk thickness it currently has.
Click to expand...

Not saying you don't offer good direction. Just...I have not done an air layer...and this tree won't be my first attempt. I actually liked the virtual I have planned for it. If at some point...I hate it. I will keep your option in the back of my head for plan B. But that base has a lovely movement not seen in 2D. It doesn't go straight up. But curves toward the back then slants before coming back to the viewer. I personally don't wish to see that gone at this time. But...I appreciate the Plan B option. Gives me food for thought.
 
GrimLore said:
That plant has come a long way in a short time - nice work :)

Grimmy
Click to expand...
Thanks Grimmy. The bark on this has me in love. It's been exfoliating...and I love the definition it brings to the trunk. A few have made my favs...this one is on the top four...In no particular order of course. ?

It's got a long way to go. Going to allow the mid to lower sections run...instead of cutting them back like I did and allow that to thicken the trunk/branches. Keeping the top in check. Again...this trunk needs age and one to address it so it can thicken more so the taper it has is more noticeable.

Chinese Quince
Bald Cypress
Neagari Satsuki
Ginkgo
 
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