Chinese Elm #2

[ColinFraser]

I bought a new elm today. There's some inverse taper at the base, and I'm planning to ground layer it at the widest point [ just wanted to get that out of the way right off the bat ]. I also think the top third or so lacks taper, so a new apex is in order (see the photo with the black towels).
My first Chinese Elm (not counting named cultivars) was pretty much 'stick-in-a-pot' level stuff, so I think this is a better project:

 

[M. Frary]

Good looking tree! A good ground layering could even flare the base a little more.

 

[ColinFraser]

I'm open to suggestions for first steps.

Ground layer vs. root grafting? Air layer vs. chop the top?

I think at minimum I should thin it down to one shoot/branch at any point on the trunk. Maybe then I'll nibble down a few of the lumpier scars and nodules to get them started healing . . .

 

[ColinFraser]

Good looking tree! A good ground layering could even flare the base a little more.

Thanks!

 

[barrosinc]

just chop it... air layering sets you back a year and for what? how much could the equivalent a airlayered elm cost?

 

[ColinFraser]

just chop it... air layering sets you back a year and for what? how much could the equivalent a airlayered elm cost?

Haha, you think like I do. If that top had roots and was in a pot, I probably wouldn't buy it anyway!
Nonetheless, I'm learning to soak on it a while first.

 

[Eric Group]

From pic one, when you ground layer it, consider a tilt left to add some implied movement down low, it looks like the reverse taper swell kind of comes across at that angle anyway... I do not recommend trying to remove all the knobs and bumps an that trunk- that is just character "to a Highlife man" (anybody remember those commercials?)- the scars would not looks any better...

 

[ColinFraser]

I agree about the tilt, and a new leader going right (relative to photo1) from the proposed chop would suit that well.

Thanks for your input on the knobs; I'm holding off on doing anything for now. When I said "a few", I definitely didn't mean I wanted to smooth out the whole trunk. The one that troubles me the most is on the left above the middle in the second photo. That's probably the back anyway, but it just strikes me as a big knobby elbow . . . Perhaps you're right and a scar wouldn't be any better.

 

[sorce]

I like the black towel but I think you should chop it a bit higher on top. Seems an inch too short, that unbarked section.
A bit under proportion with the other longer, graceful, sections of taper.

Definitely ground layer. This year.

Sorce

 

[sorce]

just chop it... air layering sets you back a year and for what? how much could the equivalent a airlayered elm cost?

Forgive me, but I do not understand why folks think Airlayering sets you back a year. Maybe on Pines.....but?

I've layered an elm In a month, they backbud after the ringbarking, grow shoots in the bag sometimes, and generally don't get set back in any way I can see.

A month less of the scar healing?

I do agree, thanks to WP saying not to keep stuff to be "nice" , that the top might not be worth it,......

But if you get a nice root spread, especially being an elm, it could be nice fast!

Sorce

 

[ColinFraser]

I like the black towel but I think you should chop it a bit higher on top. Seems an inch too short, that unbarked section.
A bit under proportion with the other longer, graceful, sections of taper.

Definitely ground layer. This year.

Sorce

Thanks Sorce
I had a hard time getting my high tech black towel system to stay put for a photograph, so it was covering a bit more of that upper section than I wanted. You are right about retaining more of it. In fact, I'm thinking about chopping quite a bit higher or taking all the upper branches off and waiting for buds so I know precisely where to cut back to.

 

[barrosinc]

Forgive me, but I do not understand why folks think Airlayering sets you back a year. Maybe on Pines.....but?

I've layered an elm In a month, they backbud after the ringbarking, grow shoots in the bag sometimes, and generally don't get set back in any way I can see.

A month less of the scar healing?

I do agree, thanks to WP saying not to keep stuff to be "nice" , that the top might not be worth it,......

But if you get a nice root spread, especially being an elm, it could be nice fast!

Sorce

because airlayering takes me more than a month, and all the heavy growing seems to happen at the beginning of spring. Chop it and get all the sap flow to the leader you created. I usually start airlayering a couple of months into spring and remove at the beginning of autumn. Maybe I am mistaken but as a noob, I prefer to advance the most I can on my trees instead because I want to get to a refinement phase as soon as possible.

 

[drew33998]

Maybe air layer across the first big knuckle shown in the second photo. Have to regrow the top on the bottom tree but I think that will warrant the best two trees if you are going to air layer it. Honestly though I like it how it is. Grow the lower branches out super long to thicken them and see how you feel after this season. You can continue to grow them out or choose to air layer next year. My .02 cents

 

[ColinFraser]

Oh, I forgot to take a 'selfie' with the tree for Sorce's totally awesome Elm Selfie Contest! That will be forthcoming.

 

[michaelj]

because airlayering takes me more than a month, and all the heavy growing seems to happen at the beginning of spring. Chop it and get all the sap flow to the leader you created. I usually start airlayering a couple of months into spring and remove at the beginning of autumn. Maybe I am mistaken but as a noob, I prefer to advance the most I can on my trees instead because I want to get to a refinement phase as soon as possible.

Given his location in California's Central Coast, I see no reason not to air layer. From mid-spring to mid-summer, I've been able to pull all (10+) of my elm air layers off within two months, and sometimes as fast as a month, with many roots, all surviving.

 

[iant]

I'd have way too many trees if I airlayered all of my chops. I don't really have enough room as it is for all the canopies on my trees...
Ian

 

[barrosinc]

Given his location in California's Central Coast, I see no reason not to air layer. From mid-spring to mid-summer, I've been able to pull all (10+) of my elm air layers off within two months, and sometimes as fast as a month, with many roots, all surviving.

probably true... don't trust me XD

 

[M. Frary]

Max, you're probably layering maples right? Chinese elms are quicker to put out roots than maples.

 

[barrosinc]

yes, maples.

Max, you're probably layering maples right? Chinese elms are quicker to put out roots than maples.

 

[M. Frary]

See, I do pay attention.