Have you checked out the threads started by @clem ?
He is using wide shallow boxes. His pace and results are excellent. Links below
In terms of materials, I have not found anything better than wood. It is as durable as we need it to be, and allows us to easily fasten nails or staples. I have used tile, plastic, etc. and did not like the fact that I could not use stables. On very young material I use plastic discs (I usually cut out the bottoms of cracked pots), but once there is a need to specify exactly where certain roots should be, wood becomes very practical.
I have also used wood circles in taller pots as opposed to shallow boxes (see 2nd image). I do this knowing that all of my roots are going to hook 90-degrees downward into the substrate. That doesn't bother me because that's the point where I am going to prune all of the roots back to when I repot anyways. I have seen good rapid root-growth with this strategy - as much as shallow boxes, I would say. Its also nice that they take up less space on the bench - I would recommend trying both shallow boxes and taller (as in regular size) pots
hello, here's a project for long time, with 5 trunks of Katsura. Never grown Katsura before but it looks good. I plan to let them grow so that the nebari will grow and fuse. I wish to have 70-80 cm high main trunk In the green house to protect it from the wind (i live near to the beach...
hello, here is another acer palmatum project : a deshojo that i bought 2 years ago. the tree in the nursery in september 2018 -> I bought it because of the nebari (from cutting) and the curve at the base of the trunk -> In march 2019 while repotting it -> In a woodbox to let it grow ->...
hello, here's another palmatum projet : a beni chidori from cutting. The tree is the nursery in september 2019 -> I bought it because of its curves in thr trunk and the nebari -> The tree during repotting in march 2019 -> November 2019 -> The tree today : i think i'll cut the straight...
I bought this palmatum in a nursery 3 years ago. here is the tree in november 2017-> In april 2018, i repot it in a large and flat woodbox + i cut the crown -> The Young leaves of the beni tsukasa cultivar -> In june of 2018 the summer growth starts -> August 2018 -> November 2018 ->...
One issue with the Anderson flats is that they are not rigid enough to avoid gentle deformations when you move them around. Probably not great for the roots...
Simple solution for this is to nest one inside another. Added bonus is improved ventilation and drainage for the rootball. Tip: drill some 1/4 holes along the bottom side edges of the Botton flat for additional air/ drainage. This is not a maple. But displays the concept. If you look closely you can see the small holes in the side of the lowest flat near the bottom edge. That combined with the air space between the nested flats improves aeration and drainage for the root ball. Nesting the two improves the rigidity of the sides ensuring a more stable root system.
hello, i don"t use plastic mesh anymore because the roots grow inside and it is a real pain to remove the rootball during repotting. Look at the result with plastic mesh ->
So now, i just use 100% wood + nails or srews. Drainage is done by the spacing between the wooden boards (2 milimeter is enough to get a very good drainage and also to prevent akadama particles from falling down). ->
It's up to you, but i also advise you to build rectangular wood boxes because we often want to have bigger roots on the side of the nebari than on the front or back.. and the final Bonsai pot is often oval with JM. If you want to create a literati JM you can developp it in a square box as the final Bonsai pot will be round in shape.
My2cents
Interesting nuances within growing out some maples within or around the Ebahari technique, and some great links as well. Mind if I ask where you were able to purchase the Anrea Meriggioli book from? Sounds like a great resource.
Do you own a table saw? If you do you could set the fence to shave a few inches and run it through. Same with a circular saw and a guide after removing the top screws just in case...
Definitely Clem is the only one I have seen here using that box with outstanding results.
My go to grow boxes using 2X4s is 14X14X3.5: 2 14" pieces; and 5 17" pieces. I build the frame with 2 14" and 2 17" and use the remaining 17" for the bottom. Then I drill half inch+ holes and cover with small plastic mesh squares. It's also easier to remove the mesh squares than a mesh sheet.
I have one trident growing in a 30"30"X3.5". I find the edges stay too wet and the soil gets that green film.
Not sure about screwing the tree directly into the box - I'd rather have at least some space beneath for roots to grow. Kind of the reason I'm using the grow box in the first place.
For best drainage, build the four sides of the box with the board and cover the bottom with hardware cloth. Then a few 1x1" or 1x2" stringers across to support the cloth and hold the box off the bench.
Rick
Interesting nuances within growing out some maples within or around the Ebahari technique, and some great links as well. Mind if I ask where you were able to purchase the Anrea Meriggioli book from? Sounds like a great resource.
hello, i don"t use plastic mesh anymore because the roots grow inside and it is a real pain to remove the rootball during repotting. Look at the result with plastic mesh -> View attachment 514396
Ya, I had the same experience when using pet screen.
I'm now using 1/4" galvanized hardware cloth, stapled to the bottoms of the box, with a loose sheet of window screen between the hardware cloth and the substrate.
IMO good results come mainly from culture : to find a good place where your trees can grow quickly. No wind for JM as much as possible. My JM grow very well in my green house but i live in mild humid and temperate climate. If i lived in a warmer and sunnier climate, maybe the green house would give too much heat and maybe JM would prefer to live outside with partial shade and no wind.
IMO good results come mainly from culture : to find a good place where your trees can grow quickly. No wind for JM as much as possible. My JM grow very well in my green house but i live in mild humid and temperate climate. If i lived in a warmer and sunnier climate, maybe the green house would give too much heat and maybe JM would prefer to live outside with partial shade and no wind.
i don't know the humidity level but the T° are often 35 - 40°C (95 - 104 °F) during the day, and 20°C during the night inside the greenhouse.
During heatwaves, T° can grow up to 40°C outside of the greenhouse and more than 45°C inside (more than 113 °F). I have more and more sunburn and slowdown in growth because of heatwaves so i think i will install a shade net to protect my JM next summer.
ps : the green house is opened and there is air circulation inside : the leaves move because of the air ciculation but there is no hard wind that block the growth.
www.bonsainut.com
. But displays the concept. If you look closely you can see the small holes in the side of the lowest flat near the bottom edge. That combined with the air space between the nested flats improves aeration and drainage for the root ball. Nesting the two improves the rigidity of the sides ensuring a more stable root system.
