Winter IS coming, start preparing

[Velodog2]

My Crape never dropped its leaves or even lost their color so yeah, got crispy, too. I've gotten conflicting information on the indica myrtles but it seems they can handle down to 0F so I'm goign to try the window well since it is supposed to be a mild winter. I do have a root cellar but I don't trust it. The last time I put BR trees in there they got covered in mold but that may have been because they were wet when put down. I need to test.

Ok down to zero? I just don’t believe it. I’ve never had them survive winters long term in my yard even when it hasn’t been that cold. The roots survive for a few years and send up new shoots but the above ground part dies back. Exposure to wind might be a factor, but regardless that’s too dicey.

 

[Dav4]

May have had a light frost a week ago... day time highs in the 60's for at least the next week... I'm fertilizing today....

 

[Dav4]

My Crape never dropped its leaves or even lost their color so yeah, got crispy, too. I've gotten conflicting information on the indica myrtles but it seems they can handle down to 0F so I'm goign to try the window well since it is supposed to be a mild winter. I do have a root cellar but I don't trust it. The last time I put BR trees in there they got covered in mold but that may have been because they were wet when put down. I need to test.

Ok down to zero? I just don’t believe it. I’ve never had them survive winters long term in my yard even when it hasn’t been that cold. The roots survive for a few years and send up new shoots but the above ground part dies back. Exposure to wind might be a factor, but regardless that’s too dicey.

Totally cultivar dependent, though siting in colder climates would be very important as landscape trees. Most Crapes are zone 7 cold hardy( 0 F ), with some getting down to zone 6 (-10 F ), but I don't think they like having their roots in frozen soil for long periods of time. One of the reasons I never owned a Satsuki azalea when I lived in zone 6 MA was because they're a lot like Crapes when it comes to winter cold, and adequate winter protection for them would be tenuous where I lived. Here, in N GA zone 7 b, they stay on my benches for most of the winter, and only get placed on the ground for the brief, really cold arctic air we get 2-3 times every winter.

 

[just.wing.it]

I assume you mean any remaining leaves got toasted, which is fine of course. But I don’t let my crapes experience anything more than a light frost. I’ve never tried leaving them out in colder, but IME they are not reliably winter hardy here in the ground, so I assume them to be less so in a pot. They overwinter in my “root cellar” with my maples.

It hadn't even begun turning fall colors, still green...and yes the leaves are wilty and curled up... hoping for the best.
We'll see.

 

[Cable]

Totally cultivar dependent, though siting in colder climates would be very important as landscape trees. Most Crapes are zone 7 cold hardy( 0 F ), with some getting down to zone 6 (-10 F ), but I don't think they like having their roots in frozen soil for long periods of time. One of the reasons I never owned a Satsuki azalea when I lived in zone 6 MA was because they're a lot like Crapes when it comes to winter cold, and adequate winter protection for them would be tenuous where I lived. Here, in N GA zone 7 b, they stay on my benches for most of the winter, and only get placed on the ground for the brief, really cold arctic air we get 2-3 times every winter.

Absolutely. It is also important to note that I work at a nursery and my crape was one of our test plants. It's already been overwintered twice in a hoop house and survived. BUT, that doesn't mean I can do it!

 

[JudyB]

Absolutely. It is also important to note that I work at a nursery and my crape was one of our test plants. It's already been overwintered twice in a hoop house and survived. BUT, that doesn't mean I can do it!

I'll bet that test subject wasn't in a bonsai pot. They get less hardy when in a pot, by about a zone. The only way I can keep mine is with a heat mat to keep the roots happy.

 

[Cable]

Good point. It wasn't then and it isn't now. I'll rethink if it survives when it eventually does go into a bonsai pot.

 

[BigBen]

Glad I`m watching this thread, thanks also for all of this info..
Looks like I`ll be moving my newly purchased Crepe material into the shed too, when temps drop again here on Long Island.
Will probably also bring-in the small Bloodgoods.

Man, I LOVE this place!!!

 

[coh]

With the benefit of hindsight...it was probably not necessary to move all my trees into shelter for this cold snap. Our temp never got much below 20 F. Bill V did a live stream yesterday (it was on Bonsai Empire on facebook) and he left most of his larger trees outside, only the shohin were moved. Oh well, many are already back outside and will probably stay there most of the month (based on the long range weather forecasts I'm seeing).

 

[Cadillactaste]

Realistically...I look at trees that have developed further while on my bench...and think...my mental number sounds more reasonable than ever after putting them into the greenhouse for this cold snap we are having. Things need more space than they did when they first landed on my benches. Those with large numbers in your collection...I commend you the time and the space you find for wintering if your northern bonsai folk who have to prepare their trees for the season's cold blast. It also makes it easier to cut back harder...lol

 

[rockm]

All of my trees freeze solid every year and 24 degrees is no big problem at all. Cold and freezing effects is completely relative to species.

Well, yeah mine freeze solid every year too, but not on Nov. 9 after 70 degree days and no frost in October.

I also have southern tree species, live oak, bald cypress, cedar elm. Trident maples too. None are very good at handling 23 F out on the benches. All are mostly in full leaf. Want a dead trident, leave it out in full leaf in 23-30 temps for two days on the bench.

I brought all my trees into the basement Friday-Sunday. Back out on Sunday, temp forecast 30 lowest for next week, providing a more gradual slide into cold.

 

[sorce]

My problem last year was that my "cold" room did not stay cold enough and I had trees budding out in February. I will skip installing the insulation this year. That greatly reduces the prep work anyway.

Yeah....this is old....ain't been here.....

But I think EVERYONE had trees budding in February.

With the late dormancy this year.....
It shouldn't be a problem.

Sorce

 

[rockm]

Yeah....this is old....ain't been here.....

But I think EVERYONE had trees budding in February.

With the late dormancy this year.....
It shouldn't be a problem.

Sorce

The "late dormancy" really has nothing to do with when trees "wake up." Depends on the species' "chilling hour" requirement. If it is fulfilled with a deep cold snap in Dec. and January, then it's ready to bud anytime after that. It's very very hard to predict early bud break based on when the first freeze arrives. A warmish February is a better indicator of a possible early bud break. If I recall correctly, the D.C. area had several days in Feb. last year when temps climbed into the low and mid 70's. That kind of warmth leads to problems with early dormancy

 

[VAFisher]

Well, yeah mine freeze solid every year too, but not on Nov. 9 after 70 degree days and no frost in October.

I also have southern tree species, live oak, bald cypress, cedar elm. Trident maples too. None are very good at handling 23 F out on the benches. All are mostly in full leaf. Want a dead trident, leave it out in full leaf in 23-30 temps for two days on the bench.

I brought all my trees into the basement Friday-Sunday. Back out on Sunday, temp forecast 30 lowest for next week, providing a more gradual slide into cold.

That was my fear with this snap too - the sudden drop with no gradual decrease. I was out of town this weekend, so I brought everything in the garage on Friday afternoon - even the really hardy stuff. I didn't get back until late last night so they are still in there. I figured the extra time in the garage was better than exposing them suddenly to 20 degrees on Friday night. Planning on putting them back out tonight based on what I'm seeing for a forecast.

 

[sorce]

The "late dormancy" really has nothing to do with when trees "wake up." Depends on the species' "chilling hour" requirement.

If you must put in x hours and show up late...
You must stay late.

Sorce

 

[rockm]

If you must put in x hours and show up late...
You must stay late.

Sorce

Well then by that logic, bud break would be delayed...not early.

 

[M. Frary]

But I think EVERYONE had trees budding in February.

You would be thinking wrong. I know one guy who didnt.

 

[sorce]

Well then by that logic, bud break would be delayed...not early.

Yes.

Sorce

 

[crust]

Well, yeah mine freeze solid every year too, but not on Nov. 9 after 70 degree days and no frost in October.

I also have southern tree species, live oak, bald cypress, cedar elm. Trident maples too. None are very good at handling 23 F out on the benches. All are mostly in full leaf. Want a dead trident, leave it out in full leaf in 23-30 temps for two days on the bench.

I brought all my trees into the basement Friday-Sunday. Back out on Sunday, temp forecast 30 lowest for next week, providing a more gradual slide into cold.

I guess I was being mindlessly geo-centric and surprised so many people were startled by cold temps for their trees not realizing how warm and suddenly cold it has struck there out in the eastern US, here in the Northern Midwest, even if it creeps up, we have had plenty of frost and freezing weather. I was surprised to hear that Bill V just has put his best trees away just the other day.

 

[JudyB]

It has been a very strange fall here in the midwest, with very little frost in the early portions, mostly hot and dry. Then came sudden -20 for several days, so our trees have not had the preparation for the season of cold. It's a reverse scramble of the spring, so hoping to get them ready. Most of mine never lost the green color. Have been trying to defoliate those that will pop off easy so as to put them away without the mess and bug issues leaves can cause in the g-house. Hope to not have issues from this, so far so good, but there is a lot to get thru to full dormancy on these. A lot of my trees put on new growth only 3-4 weeks ago, so trying to keep the damage to a minimum. Weather patterns are not predictable at all now. Next year is coolbot budget year.