What's the European version of Daconil?

[Gustavo Martins]

For your reference

https://m.facebook.com/notes/housto...ose-on-the-texas-gulf-coast/1384161804947772/

S

Thanks Scott. that was already booked-marked.
1. I did the lime-sulphur while dormant.
2. After budding and me noticing the fungus (and yes I think it's Anthracnose) I did the sulphur once.
3. I have now applied that twice Folpet + Metalaxil (used on vines).

But I am still noticing the fungus... maybe I just need to continue, although the label of the Folpet + Metalaxil says to use only 2 times per growing season... (maybe this refers to food safety requirements?)

 

[markyscott]

Thanks Scott. that was already booked-marked.
1. I did the lime-sulphur while dormant.
2. After budding and me noticing the fungus (and yes I think it's Anthracnose) I did the sulphur once.
3. I have now applied that twice Folpet + Metalaxil.

But I am still noticing the fungus... maybe I just need to continue, although the label of the Folpet + Metalaxil says to use only 2 times per growing season... (maybe this refers to food safety requirements?)

It might have been the two weeks of rain. High humidity, constantly wet foliage and warm nights are trip points for tridents, I believe.

S

 

[Gustavo Martins]

It might have been the two weeks of rain. High humidity, constantly wet foliage and warm nights are trip points for tridents, I believe.

S

Would it be wise to defoliate and treat with lime sulphur now? Or it's a no-no... Maybe later in the season?
I understand that this will demand a lot from the tree which are still just pushing new growth...

 

[markyscott]

Would it be wise to defoliate and treat with lime sulphur now? Or it's a no-no... Maybe later in the season?
I understand that this will demand a lot from the tree which are still just pushing new growth...

I don’t think I would do that - I never recommend defoliating weak trees. Why don’t you try sulphur powder or lime sulphur at growing season dilution rates? Perhaps you can grow through it.

S

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

In rainy weather most treatments will likely wash off instantly, because for them to be active, they need to be dissolved in water.

Can you treat them in a dry place and keep them there for a few days? That should help a lot.

 

[Gustavo Martins]

In rainy weather most treatments will likely wash off instantly, because for them to be active, they need to be dissolved in water.

Can you treat them in a dry place and keep them there for a few days? That should help a lot.

The weather has been better (drier) since I applied the second treatment (I can see the deposit on the leaves). I'm going to wait a bit more and maybe do another application of the above chemical to see what happens...

 

[Anthony]

Interesting Gustavo,

I wonder if your climate is moist or humid and just requires the same treatment
we use for the local willow leaf ficus.
It is a tree, that needs little water and thus the soil is -

An inorganic that can only hold water around itself.
An organic that feeds microbes etc.
Used as 9 parts inorganic to 1 part organic.

We use the quality mentioned by Scott, a shallow 2.5 cm deep pot
that in use will hold more water, because of physics.

Additionally, are you on the borderline for growing maples ?

We can grow them with a fridge, and under light shade, we use trees.
Otherwise they burn, but the air temperature does them nothing.
Our rainfall has no negative effects on them.
Our humidity just hit 45 % two days or so ago.
Heavy shower for 20 minutes this early morning around 3.00 a.m
brought it back up to 60 %.

Now awaiting the breezes to cntinue to dry us out.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[Gustavo Martins]

Interesting Gustavo,

I wonder if your climate is moist or humid and just requires the same treatment
we use for the local willow leaf ficus.
It is a tree, that needs little water and thus the soil is -

An inorganic that can only hold water around itself.
An organic that feeds microbes etc.
Used as 9 parts inorganic to 1 part organic.

We use the quality mentioned by Scott, a shallow 2.5 cm deep pot
that in use will hold more water, because of physics.

Additionally, are you on the borderline for growing maples ?

We can grow them with a fridge, and under light shade, we use trees.
Otherwise they burn, but the air temperature does them nothing.
Our rainfall has no negative effects on them.
Our humidity just hit 45 % two days or so ago.
Heavy shower for 20 minutes this early morning around 3.00 a.m
brought it back up to 60 %.

Now awaiting the breezes to cntinue to dry us out.
Good Day
Anthony

I think my climate is wetter than yours. Humidity > 80% all year. Currently at 84%, 19ºC at 1.00 pm. Showers are frequent, often very quick, then bright sun. Most times, it's not enough to water the plants...
Climate is wet and warm throughout the year. No major oscillation, either daily or seasonal.

Vegetation here is a luxuriant green throughout the year. There's a mixture of deciduous and evergreens. Tropicals are happy. no winter protection needed. Acer negundo, Tilia cordata and others are grown on streets... But I think I am borderline with most Acer species. I've seen Acer palmatum but not common. My own A. palmatum is still leafless ('dormant'). It grew great last year... needs protection from sun in summer. I only had the tridents for one year now. they did great last year in full sun, most of the time. They had a very short dormancy, but I suppose they are still acclimating being this their first winter here (they came from the mainland which is a lot colder).

Subtratum wise: I've been using regular potting soil with perlite and/or LECA to grow out plants in large pots. The 'bonsai' are in a mixture of akadama + pumice + scoria (roughly 1:2:1). Some also have a bit of pine bark. In summer, I find that the latter dries quite well and I have to water most days.