I trunk chopped this JM in late winter to an existing branch, with no repot. It grew on one side and I cut the branch back in an effort to get some more budding - with no luck. The tree seems to be fine and I don't see any obvious dieback (yet). There are patches of green on the trunk from the chop site and down. I'd like to get opinions on what I can expect from this tree going forward. On other JMs where this happened, I had die back all the way down to the roots. Those, however, were cut much lower - this one is about 15" tall. Should I expect massive dieback over the winter or will the tree be able to compartmentalize this wound with just the one branch?
What to expect from this JM?
- Thread starter dbonsaiw
- Start date
roberthu
Chumono
I'd keep the tree healthy and not touch it for a season and see if it buds back lower. If it does, I'd chop it again to the lowest sites with buds on multiple sides. Chopping doesn't promote back budding by the way. Building up a healthy and robust tree does.
Maiden69
Masterpiece
Here is my understanding, I may be wrong but it is what I have experienced. The tree already set out the buds it was going to expand after fall and through winter, so when you trunk chop late winter you basically eliminated 90% or more of those buds. Some trees, like elms probably explode every where, some don't. This is why I think a lot of people are moving towards trunk chopping after post flush hardening. I don't have a picture now, but I chopped my BC's late winter and I got a few branches extending from above the cut area. This year I chopped my liquidambar after post flush hardening and I just got buds all over the trunk... my biggest mistake was not protecting the tree from the extreme sun we had this year and most of the buds what were pushed facing south cooked before they were able to extend, but the ones that were protected look like a lion's mane or a mullet... LOL
As far as the dieback during winter, I have seen that here but mostly on trees that were chopped too late into the season, from the inability of the new branches to "winterize" properly. I don't think you will have this problem, but if you are concern provide the tree with some protection.
I know @MACH5 is near your zone, and he has M A N Y years of experience more than I do, so maybe he could shed some light in your specific situation.
As far as the dieback during winter, I have seen that here but mostly on trees that were chopped too late into the season, from the inability of the new branches to "winterize" properly. I don't think you will have this problem, but if you are concern provide the tree with some protection.
I know @MACH5 is near your zone, and he has M A N Y years of experience more than I do, so maybe he could shed some light in your specific situation.
Lot's to process here. The learning curve on bonsai is intense. My concern is that there isn't anything feeding the tree on most of the trunk - that's why I'm concerned about dieback. Perhaps the trees re-route pathways to be fed by the lone branch? Worst case, I'll have an answer in a couple of months.
Maiden69
Masterpiece
I think that if you were going to have an issue with dieback, it would have presented itself by now. Did you seal the chop? I don't see anything on the picture... that usually helps with dieback. But like I said, if you are concern, give the tree some protection.
roberthu
Chumono
The way I look at is there is nothing you can do to prevent the dieback besides letting the tree recoup its energy. Feed heavily in the fall and be on point with watering. Then just hope for the best. Any dieback will have shown by next spring so time will tell.
In fact, I don't remember. But I'm a little OCD with the green goop so would assume I did and either there was bleeding and/or rain.
Maiden69
Masterpiece
If you can get a can of Cut Paste it does go a long way... if not, Home Depot or Lowes AC duct putty is almost the same without the added hormones to help callousing.
In most trees I am using Callousmate now, it dries hard and completely waterproofs the area, while the putty does break as the callous grow and will allow moisture and air in if not pushed tight around the edges.
In most trees I am using Callousmate now, it dries hard and completely waterproofs the area, while the putty does break as the callous grow and will allow moisture and air in if not pushed tight around the edges.
MACH5
Imperial Masterpiece
I would have cut it higher. In any case now is a matter of wait and see how the tree responds. Cover the cut area, not for it to heal, but just to protect the tree and avoid any possible complications at the cut site. Tough to tell and you can never know exactly how a tree will respond. My guess is that it will die back somewhat below the branch on the opposite side. However, the tree, if it grows well, it will heal the dieback area in due time.
Thank you. Is your suggestion to simply cut higher up on the trunk or to specifically cut higher up to where branches were already growing?
MACH5
Imperial Masterpiece
Just a bit higher up (perhaps another 2" or so) in anticipation of some degree of dieback. Best time is early summer.
crab apple
Shohin
Man am I am plenty confused now, I thought trunk chops were early spring before the buds popped. What if you repot in early spring, would you still wait till post flush hardening to do the trunk chop?
BobbyLane
Imperial Masterpiece
@crab apple You can do big chops at any time during the growth season or in active growth, but best to get them done by say july as you want to give the tree enough time to react, left too late and the tree is thinking about dormancy. It can sometimes take up to 4-6 weeks for a tree to react after a trunk chop to no branches so bear that in mind, this isnt hard to find out through experimentation though, you can try it yourself.
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BobbyLane
Imperial Masterpiece
Maple work on garden material, with a big branch chop and no die back into the main trunk. I sometimes post Corin's videos on maples in another thread, not sure if anyone sees them.
Good stuff. Thanks for sharing.
Just wanted to share a follow up - I can't seem to get it to show in pics, but I can clearly see a diagonal at the top of the tree where the trunk is fatter than the area right above it. My guess is that it is dying off on an angle. Will let you know after the winter.
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