What a difference a pot makes!

The pictures of the tree in the plastic pot are the old soil. It was unsigned pumice and lava. No akadama that I could tell. It was the mix the tree was in when I purchased it.

I think this tree is a Japanese import. The guy I purchased it from had been to Japan, and I suspect he bought it there, and shipped it home. I don’t know for sure, I bought it thru a third party.

What I found when I performed the repot was evidence of a nice, flat base that had been incompetently potted. That is to say it was in a pot that was far larger than it should have been. The soil was very coarse, but had fines in it, too. It had apparantly not been sifted. The plastic pot had been drilled on the sides in an attempt to make it “air prune” the roots. But of course, roots don’t circle the sides, they circle the bottom. And the air holes were totally ineffective. The roots did not “air prune” and back bud, they were long and circling.

Under the trunk, there were numerous crossing roots and roots growing straight down. I could see that it had once been grown on a board or tile, but when he pitted it, he allowed some roots to run under the trunk from one side to the other.

I fixed all that.

My soil is my Shohin sized Boon mix. I use sifted Aoki soil with added sifted pumice. Aoki has a fairly large percentage of akadama. So pumice helps. When it gets refined to go into a show, I could put it in a shallower pot.
 
I find most of my trees respond just the opposite. Root pruning provides fresh soil and plenty of room for new feeder roots so growth after repot is stronger than before. It will be interesting to see what you get.


This is important in all bonsai whether they be maple, oak or conifer and I think the techniques to manage it are pretty similar too.

My best results when refining JM come from summer pruning. Regrowth after summer pruning tend to be more restrained so internodes are usually shorter. I now regularly remove all new spring growth with long internodes some time in late spring or early summer and get much better regrowth to build ramification.
See what sort of growth you get this spring but consider late spring/summer pruning to remove any long internodes that may develop.

JM thicken quickly where multiple shoots are close together, even small shoots will cause a problem, not only when growing but scarring after pruning also causes thickening. JM have a strong tendency to produce clusters of extra shoots, especially after pruning but often just spontaneously. I now look closely under leaves to try to spot new shoots growing from the trunk and major branches. Those are rubbed of as soon as possible before causing problems. End of branches after pruning is another place to watch for clusters of new shoots.
I would normally agree that trees respond with strong root growth after a repot. In this case, I removed 90% of the roots, the new soil has a high percentage of akadama (which slows root growth) and it is in a much smaller pot.

We’ll see...
 
My soil is my Shohin sized Boon mix. I use sifted Aoki soil with added sifted pumice. Aoki has a fairly large percentage of akadama. So pumice helps. When it gets refined to go into a show, I could put it in a shallower pot.


ok so about 1:1 pumice and Aoki? I am not familiar with Aoki. About how much of the Aoki do you guess is akadama?
 
Aoki is probably 50% akadama.

I add 25% pumice.
 
Aoki is probably 50% akadama.

I add 25% pumice.
And you use this same mix for tridents and other deciduous?

Reason I ask, is I am wondering if I should be doing something different for my deciduous
 
And you use this same mix for tridents and other deciduous?

Reason I ask, is I am wondering if I should be doing something different for my deciduous
I use pretty much the same mix for everything.
 
Aoki is probably 50% akadama.

I add 25% pumice.
Do you feel it’s necessary to add pumice? I always use 100%akadama for my maples.
Works fine for me so Just wondering why you add pumice if it’s already only 50%akadama
 
Oh, I probably didn’t need to. For a maple. I make up batches of soil. When I sift the Aoki some particles are a bit smaller, and I used them for Shohin. The others are regular sized trees. I add pumice sized for both. (Fines are sifted out)

95% of my trees are pines and evergreens.

Like I said, I use the same mix for everything. I dont have enough maples to warrant having a bucket of soil just for them.

And I’m retired. I don’t mind watering twice a day if I have to.
 
An article in Bonsai Today that Boon gives out on "Creating a Japanese Maple Bonsai in a Short Time" stresses the importance of hard cutback of the roots to invigorate the tree so that the branches will be invigorated as well.
 
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