Urbandori ash/Fraxinus excelsior

[Rawman]

Hallo! Yesterday I dug out an ash tree from debris heap. It has a lot of fine roots near to the trunk so I hope it will make a new root bal easily. Have you ever tried to do a bonsai from ash? I don't know If should I cut out all the top stright branch (the thick one) or just shorten it. What do you mean, about that stuff?
About 50-60 cm high / >10 cm thick at the base

 

[Woocash]

Hallo! Yesterday I dug out an ash tree from debris heap. It has a lot of fine roots near to the trunk so I hope it will make a new root bal easily. Have you ever tried to do a bonsai from ash? I don't know If should I cut out all the top stright branch (the thick one) or just shorten it. What do you mean, about that stuff?
About 50-60 cm high / >10 cm thick at the base

Welcome! I have no experience of Ash as bonsai, but they are not commonly used because they have large compound leaves which are difficult to reduce and coarse growth with long internodes. It has been done though. I would leave the long section for now because when you prune ash trees they tend to die back to a bud or branch so just let it do its thing for now.

 

[Rawman]

I hope these compound leafs will not be so bad compare to tree heigh. But it will be little challenging due to its specific pruning needs. I will leave it to surprise me wih new sprouts and then sen picrures from summer.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Three small Ash here. Best suggestion for bending do while growth still green stemmed or just after harden off. Partial defoliating of bigger leaves as well as directional cut backs creates smaller leaves/more branching. Trunk cut back does make more branching. Hardened off branches very stiff. Much bending will cause cracks/breaks. If this happens STOP! Apply cut paste in this position without moving at all and see if branch survives. Attempt to bend back will break for sure. Notching can be used also.

 

[Rawman]

Three small Ash here. Best suggestion for bending do while growth still green stemmed or just after harden off. Partial defoliating of bigger leaves as well as directional cut backs creates smaller leaves/more branching. Trunk cut back does make more branching. Hardened off branches very stiff. Much bending will cause cracks/breaks. If this happens STOP! Apply cut paste in this position without moving at all and see if branch survives. Attempt to bend back will break for sure. Notching can be used also.

I am not sure i fully understand that straight branch bending. It is about 6 cm thick, I think it is not possible to bend it anyway, or are we talking about that thinner upward branch? Do u think i shall not to cut it more and wait till it makes new sprouts? Thank you for your time.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Straight section would cut back but leave stub 1/2 to 3/8 inch above bud or branch to allow for dieback. Bending reference is for smaller new branches. If wanting to bend bigger branch can notch instead.

 

[Shibui]

Ash are very tolerant. You should have no problem with this tree surviving. You have been particularly lucky to get a good trunk shape. Most are dead straight with very little taper.

They can make good bonsai. They are hardy so great for beginners and hotter climates. Older, cracked bark on lower parts of the trunk and smoother bark on branches looks great. The compound leaf is a drawback but wisteria also have similar leaves and are quite popular. Ash are generally fully defoliated before a show and look spectacular if you get the timing just right and have very small leaves just opening.

This tree has just been dug and potted. I would probably have cut that thick trunk way shorter but you have already potted it up so I think it should now be left alone for a year to settle into life in a pot. The long trunk won't do any harm and may even help the tree get established. Leave it for now and wait until you see where new shoots come from.

 

[Rawman]

Ash are very tolerant. You should have no problem with this tree surviving. You have been particularly lucky to get a good trunk shape. Most are dead straight with very little taper.

They can make good bonsai. They are hardy so great for beginners and hotter climates. Older, cracked bark on lower parts of the trunk and smoother bark on branches looks great. The compound leaf is a drawback but wisteria also have similar leaves and are quite popular. Ash are generally fully defoliated before a show and look spectacular if you get the timing just right and have very small leaves just opening.

This tree has just been dug and potted. I would probably have cut that thick trunk way shorter but you have already potted it up so I think it should now be left alone for a year to settle into life in a pot. The long trunk won't do any harm and may even help the tree get established. Leave it for now and wait until you see where new shoots come from.

Thanks a lot. I will leave that trunk to nex year spring and then shorten it to the thinner branch point. I have one more ash with interesting base, but it is only 1 year dug, so it has been newer pruned or wired. Here in Ostrava grows a lot of ashes, and maples and often are shaped by string trimmers and has an interesting shape.

 

[Rawman]

Pics of the other ash (thumbnails from old mobile, sorry for the quality)

 

[Shibui]

I think the string trimmers could make some very interesting trees for bonsai. The urban equivalent of rabbits or deer keeping trees pruned small and creating dead wood.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Good eye for starter trees.

 

[0soyoung]

Compound leaves are not necessarily a problem --> they can be select-a-size leaves by just cutting off part of the leaf along the stem. With Japanese maples, one often cuts away half the leaf to get light inside the canopy or to selectively reduce vigor, and it looks less natural than what one gets cutting part of a compound leaf!

 

[Rawman]

Today update. Repoted and a bit pruned.