Understanding of seasons and associated work for my climate?

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I'd like to check my understanding of my climate and the "seasons" associated with what work can or should be done.

Plants include basic junipers of different types, boxwoods, azaleas, and bougainvilleas.

1) January through mid-February, coldest portion of winter (~34* at night)- simple watering to maintain health.

2) Mid-February through the first part of March, "beginning" of spring (40's-50's at night, 60's-70's during the day)- repotting.

3) March through April, spring (high 50's-60's at night, 70's-low 80's during the day)- wiring and pruning.

4) May, warming to summer (70's at night, high 80's-low 90's during the day)- wiring and pruning (?)

5) June through mid September, summer (100 at night, 115 during the day)- simple watering (and misting on the more delicate specimens) to maintain health, including limited pruning.

6) End of September through mid-November, cooling to fall- this is my biggest question mark. Since this is a time of "comfortable" temperatures, can I wire and prune during this time?

7) Mid November through December, fall- watering again to maintain health.

Humidity is very low for the majority of the year, with the exception being during July and August monsoons.

Does that seem like a reasonable train of thought?
 
Desert Climate.

Can we change the title to add desert.

You need folks from there to look and reply.

There are a few on forums I know of.

Some good videos from I beleive its, High Desert Bonsai. On youtube.

I wouldn't take ANY advice from folks from any other climate. It is just NOT the same.

Sorce
 
I assume you are familiar with the Phoenix Bonsai Society website: http://www.phoenixbonsai.com/ . Or the Tucson society: http://tucsonbonsaisociety.org/ .

They'd be the best sources of this kind of info, so if you live near one or the other, I suggest you join. By "near" I mean maybe an hour or so. Distances matter in AZ.

(You might add to your profile a BIT more detail on where you live in AZ. Climate zones vary widely there.

I live in NC now, but lived for some time in Nogales and my first two (anciently long ago) years of college were in Tempe and I have been back to AZ frequently.

From the plants you mention, all but the bougainvillea, can be outside all winter long, and even the bougy can stay out as long as it does not freeze. I would include all of February as the best time to repot, transplant, and dig plants. The early part of Sept. thru December would be another period when root work is safe.

Summer will be your real period of dormancy, tho trees that do winter dormancy will find it in January and February. You don't mention it, but watering and especially shade for the azaleas and other broadleafed trees will be important in the heat of summer.

Without more info on what part of the desert you live in, I'll go no further with my "other climate" advice. But do join a club if possible.
 
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I'm in zone 9b, but it doesn't get down to 25 degrees. Local topography and the resulting micro-climate prevents that. I'm closest to the town of Superior, making the Phoenix and Tucson Bonsai clubs out of reach.

Through trial and error, I've been keeping everything in limited morning sun, but full afternoon shade. The azaleas are in the shade all of the time (positioned near other potted plants on the patio). Full sun for a few of my plants that I had resulted in frying them.
 
9b here as well. But such a beginner I cannot help much at all!
Im fortunate to have North / south side yard with overhang for all day diffused sun.
My species are very limited to coastal redwoods and toyo nishiki's, and several pine's and azalea's. All of which I have on my sideyard facing north/south

I have no help! But will be interested in feedback and those links that were put up by jkl.

I've been keeping everything in limited morning sun, but full afternoon shade. The azaleas are in the shade all of the time (positioned near other potted plants on the patio)

This is about all we can do!! ZAP!
curious about your question regarding wiring.

I am located in La Quinta, Ca fwiw
 
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9b here as well. La Quinta, Ca fwiw

USDA hardiness zones are tricky, as they're only concerned with the low temperature. Being in La Quinta outside Indio, I think that we share the same high-temperature concern.

Back in June I had the chance to visit the Chikugo-en nursery and talk to Gary Ishii. We specifically talked about high and low temperatures. The basis of the conversation related to the fact that even though their nursery is in zone 10b, I have greater concerns to worry about with maximum temperatures in 9b. For example, the high that day in Gardena was something like 73 degrees, while the low at home was 85.

Hardiness zones have nothing to say about high temperatures.
 
Hardiness zones have nothing to say about high temperatures.

But you can get some help from the American Horticultural Society's Heat Zone map: http://www.ahs.org/gardening-resources/gardening-maps/heat-zone-map

Again, though, NEITHER map (USDA or AHS) applies very well to growing bonsai, where it is heat or cold on the roots that is of prime importance.
 
the hardiness ratings are a good go by to get a starting point for bonsai culture. I always give + or - 20 degrees F. If the rating is for 0F then I begin protection at 20F. The rating is for the tree grown in optimal conditions, ie in the ground.

A more acurate measure I believe is simply- If I'm uncomfortable, so are my trees. If I'm suffocating in the heat, (most likely I'm out there watering down my trees). When my feet are freezing in the winter I put on my boots, (and I'm out there tucking in the trees with some top mulch). If it's too nasty for me out there it's time to bring some into the barn. Same with coming out in the spring. If I'm still dressing up to go out, woolies and hoodies, it's too early to bring out the stock. Even if it's looking nice out, or maybe you just like doing the spring shuffle. LOL That's my story and I'm stickin' to it. Rick
 
Even with the oppressive heat, all of the plants seems to be doing well with sporadic misting to keep them cool.

My two azaleas are even putting out new leaves, I'm taking this as a good sign.

I'm mostly concerned about those two azaleas and also two junipers that were purchased in California (not CA junipers, just purchased at a nursery there). I've already had dismal results with a procumbens, so I'm keeping a closer eye on these. I'm just going to assume that these four plants are the most susceptible to succumbing to the elements.

I think that my plan will be to re-pot a resilient Italian cypress towards the end of September, and two boxwoods. Those seem to be the most heat-tolerant of my collection (besides the bougainvillea, which doesn't need any work right now).

The mild temperatures reaching into November should be plenty of time for them to re-establish themselves into new pots.

Over winter (January and February), I plan on sticking a infrared bulb out on the patio, to at least mitigate the cold on the two or three nights it actually does reach freezing temperatures.
 
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