Trident Renovation Project

[River's Edge]

Update on this project. A few weeks ago I had the help of some of my students to repot and check the progress on the Trident. It took some time to carefully remove the tree from the pot, explore the root ball to determine how things were progressing and plan the appropriate work during this repot.
Summary of findings.
1. the area that was addressed during the emergency repot approximately 18 months ago showed the healthiest root growth. This was the central core of the tree where the roots had all died. At the time of the emergency repot the outside edges and bottom showed soma healthy roots the core roots were dried out and dead and the major portion of the root ball was compacted with weaker roots as well.
2. The outer mat of roots on the sides and bottom were very healthy, however when the outside was trimmed off it was very apparent that the perimeter was still very compacted and showed weaker root system throughout. This area was addressed during the repot. The most compacted areas were carefully combed out with chopsticks to remove the majority of the compacted soil. This is a much older tree so the root ball was not bare rooted or washed. I chose to take a slower more cautious approach. By doing so, I hope to be able to continue some of the renovation work at earlier times in the process!
3. Clearly the tree will benefit from being placed in a grow box for several years to bring about the vigorous growth needed for the work planned. If recovery is as expected some work may even be possible this growing season.

Here are a series of photos to illustrate the comments above. The first photo shows the tree on the cart before we started. The last photo shows the condition of the tree today, three weeks after the repot. I will post some others separately to illustrate a couple of key points.View attachment 591599View attachment 591600

This photo shows the exterior root growth which can be deceiving. Once the edges and bottom are trimmed off then we can truly look under the hood and view the actual root ball for overall condition. This is the time to check carefully for weaker areas that may be addressed first when dealing with a revival project. Note how some sections are much darker with compacted soil even before the root mat is trimmed off.

 

[River's Edge]

This photo shows the exterior root growth which can be deceiving. Once the edges and bottom are trimmed off then we can truly look under the hood and view the actual root ball for overall condition. This is the time to check carefully for weaker areas that may be addressed first when dealing with a revival project. Note how some sections are much darker with compacted soil even before the root mat is trimmed off.View attachment 591601View attachment 591607View attachment 591608

Now to the heart of the matter. Once the bottom mat is trimmed away we can truly judge the health of the main root ball. If we were to consider only the exterior show of roots one would be deceived. Check the color variation and root growth pattern in the photo below.I was very pleased to see the results of the previous emergency repot so clearly illustrated by the circle of healthy root growth in the core area excavated and cleared of dead roots on the first go around. An excellent teaching moment for those involved. To recap this area was packed with akadama (medium size particles)

 

[River's Edge]

Now to the heart of the matter. Once the bottom mat is trimmed away we can truly judge the health of the main root ball. If we were to consider only the exterior show of roots one would be deceived. Check the color variation and root growth pattern in the photo below.I was very pleased to see the results of the previous emergency repot so clearly illustrated by the circle of healthy root growth in the core area excavated and cleared of dead roots on the first go around. An excellent teaching moment for those involved. To recap this area was packed with akadama (medium size particles) View attachment 591609

This last photo is simply to illustrate the tie down method used for more established root balls. Note the chopstick driven into the root ball on the side, There is another one on the opposite side and the wires shown are tightened down on the chopstick to hold the root ball firmly in place. The grow box is only a bit larger on the perimeter but was built deeper to accommodate the tree for a longer period of time. This will allow more working time for the changes planned.

 

[River's Edge]

This last photo is simply to illustrate the tie down method used for more established root balls. Note the chopstick driven into the root ball on the side, There is another one on the opposite side and the wires shown are tightened down on the chopstick to hold the root ball firmly in place. The grow box is only a bit larger on the perimeter but was built deeper to accommodate the tree for a longer period of time. This will allow more working time for the changes planned.View attachment 591611

 

[River's Edge]

Now that the tree is beginning recovery three weeks later. By my estimation less than 20% of the original compacted remains at this point
and it is dispersed throughout. Bits here and there because I chose to not bare root and wash the roots. I prefer a staged approach with
older mature specimens.

 

[River's Edge]

Now that the tree is beginning recovery three weeks later. By my estimation less than 20% of the original compacted remains at this point
and it is dispersed throughout. Bits here and there because I chose to not bare root and wash the roots. I prefer a staged approach with
older mature specimens.
View attachment 591612

Update on this project. The next step was to prepare an air layer to remove an unwanted branch that had grown too thick and leggy in the upper portion of the tree. I could have just cut it off but I wanted more material with the same genetics for grafting and the opportunity was there for a second tree. During a session with my students this spring after the recovery from repotting we applied the air layer. Today I separated the air layer and prepared it for the temporary grow pot, prior to an Anderson flat in another year or two.
What was important at this stage was to set the foundation for a good root base. This involves carefully arranging and working with what is possible in the first stage. Being careful to understand staging the work over time and being patient will be beneficial. Here are a few photos to illustrate the process. I will detail the steps in the next post for those who are interested.

 

[River's Edge]

Update on this project. The next step was to prepare an air layer to remove an unwanted branch that had grown too thick and leggy in the upper portion of the tree. I could have just cut it off but I wanted more material with the same genetics for grafting and the opportunity was there for a second tree. During a session with my students this spring after the recovery from repotting we applied the air layer. Today I separated the air layer and prepared it for the temporary grow pot, prior to an Anderson flat in another year or two.
What was important at this stage was to set the foundation for a good root base. This involves carefully arranging and working with what is possible in the first stage. Being careful to understand staging the work over time and being patient will be beneficial. Here are a few photos to illustrate the process. I will detail the steps in the next post for those who are interested.

Steps as follows: ( use a misting bottle to keep roots damp throughout this process)
1. Separate with saw for clean cut and seal cut stub on tree. will finish the cut later.
2. Carefully unwrap the plastic and review the situation.
3. using a wooden chopstick carefully comb out the roots and remove the particles of pumice and sphagnum moss clearing the ball away from the stub.
4. Remove the wire at the bottom of the calloused portion.
5. Cut away the stub below the air layer until flat with the bottom of the existing callus and roots. Seal the cut area and let dry.
6. Attach board prepared to keep roots flat as they develop to improve nebari and the base. Screwed int the base of the tree.
7. Place upright and trim roots as desired to remove those too high up and those too long or twisted after combing then carefully out in a radial fashion.
8. Secure into pot with drainage/aeration layer under the board and suitable substrate. ( 1:1 ration medium particle pumice and medium particle akadama. Gently work substrate between roots. ( pot prepared ahead of time)
9 Water slowly and thoroughly until water runs clear, then return in 1/2 hour and repeat.
10 Finish with shredded sphagnum moss. Mist shredded moss to settle it in place.

 

[luvinthemountains]

Thank you so much for your careful presentation of the process. Very informative!

 

[River's Edge]

Thank you so much for your careful presentation of the process. Very informative!

Thanks, appreciate the comment. It is way more fun when it works out this well. I will post a before and after air layer picture of the outcome for design on the tree once the finished cut is done in about three weeks. Saving that step for hands on with students. Guided practice makes a difference in confidence levels. The section removed was the most leggy portion with the thickest branch in a poor location. Will now be much easier to see and plan the next steps.