It should be a pretty easy collection. Being that it is easily accessible to you, and probably a nursery bought tree.
Late winter, or early spring is my collection season. As long as it is above freezing and the ground is thawed, I've had very high success rates. I collected 45 trees this spring, 42 of those trees are growing like crazy, 3 are probably dead, but I dont give up till the following spring and continue to water as usual, sometimes they just decide to grow roots for a year and try to scare you, so don't give up on them too soon. I have a beech I collected that has pushed tons of roots into the ground through the pot, and hasn't put out leaves the first year before.
Digging
Here is how I find it safest to dig a rootball. I would just dig a decently large root ball on that tree. Probably 18 inches away from the trunk, dig a trench all the way around the tree, if you have a reciprocating saw, cut a circle first, if not use a sharp saw. Try to avoid prying on the rootball or you will risk damage to the roots. What you want to do is trench out enough soil so that you can start digging under the root ball, and keep it intact. Here is one of my early collected American beech, still in place, but you can see how I dug under the roots, basically horizontally trenching under the roots, and would cut the roots as I progressed.
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I try to keep the soil intact, heavy chunks breaking off can tear needed roots with them. I try to be as gentle as I can when removing the soil, and I generally bare root my deciduous collected trees(unless it is a species that requires micorrhiza). Often I remove the soil with a water hose, slowly working from the outside of the rootball inward washing the roots. Sometimes I use a root pick, depends mostly on the soil, clay is easier to remove by washing.
Potting
I generally put them in a pot a bit bigger than necessary to begin with. Anderson flats give me great results, but you can use an Tupperware tub with tons of drain holes drilled in, or a hot nail to burn the holes. A mix of coarse and fine pumice works great for me, and holds moisture well, but Kentucky gets plenty of rain, and humidity, so your climate may differ. I have also had good results using the 8822 oil absorber diatomaceous earth from NAPA, it is like 15 bucks for 24 quarts. It needs screened as it is dusty though. Similar to akadama in the way it color changes when it dries, which I do like.
More important than anything is securing the tree into the pot as best as possible. The tree shouldn't wiggle around or it will likely die. Wire it into the pot like you would a tree in a bonsai pot. Guy wires supports secured from tree to pot in multi directions also can work. A couple wood strips with holes drilled and wired to the pot on one side of the tree along with a wire securing the tree to the wood works as well, whatever it takes to keep it from moving in the soil! It doesn't have to be pretty. At this stage of development, the tree needs to transition into pot life. Minimal work for 2 years is always recommended, some species can handle more than others.
Aftercare
Keep the tree in shade. I generally go with 70 percent cloth, but the trees get morning sun for a couple hours and they've done fine. Fertilizer is fine, and I recommend it, just not at full dosage, maybe half.
I don't have any experience with that tree species, so I cannot guarantee this is all what will work for it.
