Tips/Tricks on Japanese Maple clump or forest?

namnhi

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Does anyone have any pointers on creating a Japanese Maple clump or forest? I have seen quite a few pictures of trees in this style but don't see too many thread/article talking about how to pull on of this off. In the past I have planted a few trident seedlings together in the same pot and after a few years the trunks fused together. Doesn't look bad or anything but wondering if there is a better way to create it. Any link or pointer is highly appreciated.
NN
 
Thanks @markyscott. I have seen that before but for some reason it didn't stick with me. My problem is the Japanese maple seedlings I got is about half an inch thick so not sure if it is possible to push them through the hole like what Al did. By the way, I've been wanting to asking. Do you do anything special to keep JM happy in our climate? Most of my have their leaves burnt so badly that there is no fall color on them.
NN
 

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Hi,
Thanks @markyscott. I have seen that before but for some reason it didn't stick with me. My problem is the Japanese maple seedlings I got is about half an inch thick so not sure if it is possible to push them through the hole like what Al did.

I saw a similar technique in an old bonsai magazine, in an article translated from a Japanese magazine. Instead of a terracotta cup, the bonsaika would use a kind of softer tile, I can't remember the name of the thing, but he would drill several holes, according to the size of the trunks. the tile was then put in a plastic cup, fertilized, with some soil above the tile.

Then, as the trunks grew, they would first form a bulge above the tile, then fuse together. When enough roots would have formed above the tile, he would then break the tile, cut the roots on the underside and repot the clump.

It was very convincing because the base of the trees would not fuse "V-shaped", but with a more natural start.

When I have more time, I'll try to find the magazine again.
 
I'm planning for clumps. I know of Al's method, but I'm going to experiment and do a combination of using a board, screws, and grafting. I'm not starting out with seedlings as you are, but with airlayers mostly with good radial roots already. Would try to get them to fuse. F

Fall color for me are hit or miss. The ones that do well were only getting morning sun in the morning. Dappled or indirect sun during the day other times. During spring I keep full sun all day.
 
...By the way, I've been wanting to asking. Do you do anything special to keep JM happy in our climate?...

Some leaf burn is expected, but I hardly had any this year. But we don't grow these for great fall color. We get a bit if we have an early front, but it's rare. I cut all the leaves off as soon as they start to turn. I grow them in APL - - a bit extra A. Make sure it's well sieved. They like low AFP. I cover the soil surface with milled sphagnum during the growing season. I grow them in full sun until the daytime highs are consistently in the 90s, then I move them under shade. Back out into full sun when daytime temps drop again.

Scott
 
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Thanks Scott and TP for the tips on keep Japanese maple looking good... or alive in the hot climate areas. Am a big fan of them but they look so awful come September. I have seen a couple quite old close to my house that planted in almost full sun with very little sun burn. I know it can be done.
 
You might already know, but I'll just say it for others- green leaf ones can take more sun in our hot summers than the red leaf ones.
 
Thanks Scott and TP for the tips on keep Japanese maple looking good... or alive in the hot climate areas. Am a big fan of them but they look so awful come September. I have seen a couple quite old close to my house that planted in almost full sun with very little sun burn. I know it can be done.

Here's a great article on how to avoid leaf burn.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/cratae...leaves-on-deciduous-bonsai/amp/?client=safari

Scott
 
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