This Procumbens Has Me Stumped!

Sorry for keeping everyone in suspense. I've been visiting my parents all weekend, and I haven't had much of a chance to get to a keyboard. On the plus side, with then in Gardena, this means that I also spent the weekend at Chikugo-en talking to Gary. I learned a lot and came away with a beautiful Procumbens Nana that I will work on when I have had more practice on the cheap stuff.

There was a lot of great advice given in this forum and i really appreciated everyone's input. At this point in my bonsai journey, I feel that @Eric Group had the best approach. I had never really done any significant wiring and had no idea what its limits really were. And so, I decided to take each one of those five limbs and do something a little different.

First, I tried to dig and find the surface roots... Only to find them about 1/8" below the soil. At that point, I found that the juniper was entirely rootbound since it was growing roots upwards. I did some very basic clean up work (removing dead sections, suckers, etc), but decided to skip any pruning since I was short on time for today.

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For the first branch, I wanted to see how sharp of an angle I could bend. It turned out to be a whole lot more than I thought, even for a young juniper. It of course snapped completely off. I then took this as a sign that it would be a great time to see what it's like to make a jin. Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures of that progression.

For the next branch, I wanted to see how tightly I could spiral the branch (pigtail style as mentioned above). I saw @Smoke 's tutorial on using raffia, and will definitely be trying that with some whips later. This came out much better than I thought it would and established the tree's apex.

The third branch was wired down like a semi-cascade. I had never liked juniper cascades very much, but Gary had a truly inspiring work on display during my visit, so I wanted some experience with it. After wiring the primary and one set of secondary branches, I saw that I was running out of time. I left the rest of the semi-cascade and pad forming for later.

The fourth branch was an attempt to see if I could accentuate the apex spiral with a complementary spiral of jin. I wanted to convey the idea of the tree breaking free of restraint. It too snapped in a few different places.

I didn't have time for the last branch, so I wired it up and moved it in a slight whorl around the tree. I'm not sure what I was trying to accomplish - some sense of balance perhaps?

The resulting pictures can be seen here. Viewer discretion advised. Images of bonsai frankensteinian butchery not for the faint of heart.


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I didn't bother to slip pot it since I'm not sure the tree will even survive this level of abuse. It lost a lot of foliage in this process. If it does survive, I'll probably finish my practice on the semi-cascade branch and then shorten it to something more sensible. The spiraling jin will also be removed.

All in all, i would consider this experiment a success. Although the tree makes the ugly tree look like a cover model for Sports Illustrated, I did learn quite a lot:

1) I have a better feel for when a bend is too much. There's a tension that you can feel when it's on the verge of breaking.
2) Letting the wood relax a little and bending slowly will give you a better chance of not breaking.
3) I learned the importance of accurately assessing which wire to use.
4) When you set a branch in one position, its not a good idea to bend back and put it into an entirely new one. My first attempt with copper showed that it was UNFORGIVING. I wired the rest of this tree with 3mm aluminum.
5) Breaking a branch is completely okay. Sometimes it actually makes styling easier by narrowing your choices, and gives you an opportunity for jin.
6) Never remove a branch until you are absolutely 100% sure you will never use it. When you wire a tree, the shape changes and suddenly what seemed irrelevant becomes critical.

And lastly... The quality of the material matters. This was a bargain big box bonsai that I got for less than $9. The difference between that and the $35 pre-bonsai from Chikugo-en is one of lightyears.

This really was a fun exercise and it's something I feel like every new bonsai enthusiast should try before working on anything quality.
 
Well, you got some good experience and that was the important part! I am far from the one to tell you how to wire "perfectly" and aesthetically.. I look at it mainly as a means to make my trees do what I want, and if it makes the bend I need, it is a success... But I I have been trying to get better about the proper angles and tightness/ neatness...

I will let some of the wiring experts chime in if they want, but this is What I can see from your pics...

On yours I think most would say you out the wire on a little too loose in some places. That isn't a terrible thing overall, but it looks kind of sloppy in the end and if it a live branch that is wired too loose, then the places that are touching the branch have to do all the work and seem to cut in worse... You we ant the wire just tight enough so it looks like it is barely touching, and the places it is not touching it is barely off the branch... Hard to get it right... Overall, practice makes perfect which you got a LOT of!

The angles you used were about right... In that you laid the wire along the branch and didn't coil it too tight like a Spring- that is my most common mistake!

You did a decent job of getting movements in lots of different directions- front back and side to side- on the branches you wired which is good. Might want to focus on getting sharper curves in some of them as well.

Copper is much harder to bend and once set in place, it hardens off again so it IS very unforgiving as you said. Aluminum can be bent several times... But the experts will all tell you copper is better... For big bends on bigger branches it is probably downright necessary to use copper because it is so strong, and for refinement, you can get tiny branches set in place with smaller pieces of copper wire, but I have never seen any difference in your average sized branches in how they react to copper or aluminum... If it makes the bend, then it works and I am fine with it! JMO

Thanks for sharing your work with us, I am glad you are jumping right in and getting your feet wet. See if you can find a couple more little Junipers on the cheap, it is great practice to work on material like this!
 
Annealed copper is soft and gets harder as it is bent. The more you bend the copper, the harder it gets.

If you start off with copper that has not been annealed, it's REALLY hard to bend.

The advantages of copper over aluminum are: you can use a smaller wire of copper to do the same job. Once you bend the branch with copper on it, it will hold its position better. If you use aluminum, sometimes the branch will straighten back out, or lose the bend you put into it. Copper is more resistant to being "bent out of shape" if you accidently brush up against the tree. Copper wire tarnishes to brown, so it blends in. Aluminum starts off painted black, but the paint fades over time, and the wire turns silver.

You can reuse aluminum, but copper will need to be re annealed before it can be used again. Aluminum is less expensive.
 
I just looked and see Sawgrass submitted a tutorial on bending and channeling. Perfect timing! Check that out and see if you are still stumped.
Where is the tutorial, I'd like to see it.
Thanks in advance
 
I bet this will live. You'll see back budding all over the bare spots. Eventually you'll be able to remove some of the excess branching at the junction. Turn them into jin. Junipers will morph a lot over the years. Look at Brian Van Fleet's blog for his juniper progressions:
https://nebaribonsai.wordpress.com
 
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