The Shohin Tree Thread

Just added this to my collection today! Link to future progress found here:

 

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My smallest crape myrtle finally decided to get going this year. The fine twigs mostly died back but it was due for a pretty drastic cutback anyway. Here it is after cleaning up all the dead ends and cutting back to the new growth.

Curious to get thoughts on the low left branch. I guess it technically breaks the rules because it comes from the inside of a curve. I've been debating whether it should stay or go, but I think the tree is better with it. It does need to thicken up a little though.
Thoughts?

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I don't like it, much better without it.
 
My smallest crape myrtle finally decided to get going this year. The fine twigs mostly died back but it was due for a pretty drastic cutback anyway. Here it is after cleaning up all the dead ends and cutting back to the new growth.

Curious to get thoughts on the low left branch. I guess it technically breaks the rules because it comes from the inside of a curve. I've been debating whether it should stay or go, but I think the tree is better with it. It does need to thicken up a little though.
Thoughts?
Leave the branch this season then prune it off this winter. I think the tree will be better without but first use it to help this year's growth.

Here's a small pomegranate still with last year's fruit, can't bring myself to chop them off! The leaves came very late, it won't flower till probably late june or july now. I really should cut those pommys off.
Pomegranate with last year fruit. May 2020 by Dave bluesky, on Flickr
 
Couple more questions☺
I'm assuming you can only display in (perceived?) zone appropriate groups? So juniper cannot be displayed with ficus? Also are there warmer zones where you could have trees that can grow in colder climates but also grow there? Like pines in Georgia? But if you paired it with say a Natal plum which may also grow in that region it could look weird in a display together? (I was trying to come up with a better example but I couldn't think of anything right now.)
@Adair M , @Brian Van Fleet and all others who may know. Any thoughts about this question that I had? This little mame is leafing out nicely.
 

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Couple more questions☺
I'm assuming you can only display in (perceived?) zone appropriate groups? So juniper cannot be displayed with ficus? Also are there warmer zones where you could have trees that can grow in colder climates but also grow there? Like pines in Georgia? But if you paired it with say a Natal plum which may also grow in that region it could look weird in a display together? (I was trying to come up with a better example but I couldn't think of anything right now.)
I don’t think there is any rule about mixing zones, per se. In the strictest sense, the Shohin display rack represents a mountain, and therefore, high mountain trees (pines, junipers) belong at the top, and lowland trees and accent grasses belong at the bottom. If you are displaying a ficus in your rack, it should be placed in a position that is best represented by the style of the tree. So if it’s a sumo nerifolia that somewhat resembles a fat black pine, it could go on the top spot. If it’s a retusa in a broom style, it could go middle or low.

Some purists reject azaleas in a Shohin display.

Also, you will perceive “theme” displays. Some well-executed themes can be very subtle. Others may showcase pots, fruits, movements, seasons, or trunks. Here is an example of a seasonal display. It is an Ume in flower, which is a dead of winter season, overlooking a bare deciduous tree (Chojubai?, maybe in a Tofukuji pot) as if on a cliff above the forest below. The accent suggests the dormant forest floor.
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I don’t think there is any rule about mixing zones, per se. In the strictest sense, the Shohin display rack represents a mountain, and therefore, high mountain trees (pines, junipers) belong at the top, and lowland trees and accent grasses belong at the bottom. If you are displaying a ficus in your rack, it should be placed in a position that is best represented by the style of the tree. So if it’s a sumo nerifolia that somewhat resembles a fat black pine, it could go on the top spot. If it’s a retusa in a broom style, it could go middle or low.

Some purists reject azaleas in a Shohin display.

Also, you will perceive “theme” displays. Some well-executed themes can be very subtle. Others may showcase pots, fruits, movements, seasons, or trunks. Here is an example of a seasonal display. It is an Ume in flower, which is a dead of winter season, overlooking a bare deciduous tree (Chojubai?, maybe in a Tofukuji pot) as if on a cliff above the forest below. The accent suggests the dormant forest floor.
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Thanks for all the info! Do you, or anyone else know why there was/is discrimination against azaleas?
 
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Same as why "real men don't eat quiche". 😏
Thanks for all the info! Do you, or anyone else know why there was/is discrimination against azaleas?
Y’all both owe photos to this thread. And, it’s because azaleas are kind of in a separate category of bonsai in Japan.
zelkova, early in training. Shibakatsu pot.
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In the strictest sense, the Shohin display rack represents a mountain, and therefore, high mountain trees (pines, junipers) belong at the top, and lowland trees and accent grasses belong at the bottom.
I never connected the dots on this. It makes total sense, though.

Exposed root Exbury azalea coming into leaf.

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I've had this hinoki for a few years, the variety is 'Maureen.' It grows very slowly, even when it was in a bigger pot.
I like the tiny foliage even more than 'Sekka' hinoki.
The pot it's in is a bit big, but I was hoping for more growth and a thicker trunk before it gets a smaller pot. There's a larger base hiding behind the moss. I can't find a grafting scar so it might be a cutting.
 

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