Surface/circling roots on mugo nursery stock . . .

aren't plants supposed to be re-potted about every year?
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And for coniferous plants you can double that.

Only very few species take well to annual rootwork (In bonsai, repotting means rootwork too, use uppotting if you just move to a lagrer container). Elm, potentialla, Willow are species that come to mind that fill their containers so fast that repotting annually is fairly common. For pine 5-10 years between repottings is not uncommon.
 
That is good advice. I am also reading up on the mugo threads...
So 1 insult a year- aren't plants supposed to be re-potted about every year?
I don't know if I would glorify my repotting as a formal insult, more like a snub. I just removed the cheap plastic pot and put it in a crock pot with a drainage hole.

Other than a simple slip potting where you dont touch the roots, messing with the roots of a tree is a major insult, period.
The roots are how the tree gets water which is vital to the rest of the tree.
The tree loses water through its foliage and if it isnt replaced adequately, the tree suffers.

Most major health problems besides most pests and fungus are usually boiled down to a root problem.

And NO trees are most definitely not repotted every year with a very few exceptions.
The only tree I repot every year is my trident maple which grows roots a foot long in one season.
Pines are repotted every 3 years in development and every 5 years or more when "finished"
 
Ab
So
Lute
Ly
NOT

And for coniferous plants you can double that.

Only very few species take well to annual rootwork (In bonsai, repotting means rootwork too, use uppotting if you just move to a lagrer container). Elm, potentialla, Willow are species that come to mind that fill their containers so fast that repotting annually is fairly common. For pine 5-10 years between repottings is not uncommon.

So annual re-potting is common for some species, just not conifers. That's why I asked the question, I was looking for clarification.
 
I think you want to remove crossing roots (you get to pick the winner) and bury them back in soil, if they are above ground they will dry and unless you are doing exposed roots, you proly won't get fine roots.
 
I bet there is some kind of truly structural roots under that set of small visible/semi-exposed roots. I’d leave the tree alone for this year and reengage with that issue next summer, do a soil refresh and then lower the soil line after finding the true nebari.
 
That dogma is intense, my friend.

Plus, I have a greenhouse full of willow cuttings. ;)
I think he was trying to inform you.. that the exceptions are STILL amongst a minority....

Very few trees in containers (that aren’t extraordinarily tiny or like up-potting cuttings) would benefit from annual repotting... very few.
 
My experience is that the 2nd year after repot is when the highest growth begins and extends until rootbound, all other things being equal. It is species-specific. My experience is mostly with deciduous.
 
I think he was trying to inform you.. that the exceptions are STILL amongst a minority....

Very few trees in containers (that aren’t extraordinarily tiny or like up-potting cuttings) would benefit from annual repotting... very few.
You look for the best in people. I admire that. 👍🏻
 
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