Spots on Pinus thunbergii 'Corticosa' needles

[Michigan Tree Murderer]

What am I looking at here? Fungus, scale, or?

 

[WNC Bonsai]

Lophodermium Needlecast ?

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

Looks fungal to me so I second needlecast. But hail damage is also possible.

 

[Michigan Tree Murderer]

Thanks. Daconil to the rescue.

 

[Dabbler]

I had this on one of my tree's then it shed all the needle - Daconil should help but you might lose those needles

 

[Michigan Tree Murderer]

I had this on one of my tree's then it shed all the needle - Daconil should help but you might lose those needles

All the needles or just the infected ones?

 

[Dabbler]

All the needles or just the infected ones?

could be a mix of both or none - just do what you can

 

[Japonicus]

In treating fungus on needles, the needles will not repair, so do not expect to see the issue get better.
Daconil will not cause needle drop but fungus can. However don't intentionally spray the soil.
Overspray on the soil is ok, but direct soil spraying might interrupt the mycelium.
Still we use granular systemic in conjunction with the foliar spray to involve internal parts.
The best time to address new needles to prevent the fungus is twice sprayed in Spring.
Once as the candles are mature but not opened, again when they are partially open, maybe midways.
Application now won't hurt, but it won't give you the short term fix either. Only new needles
which are venerable to the fungus.
Now for decandleing purposes, that's a different story and one I am not familiar with given it is JBP
Consider any other pine that presents a second flush as with my 2 dwarf EWPs, to receive a 2nd treatment course.
If you have not treated for fungus as described above, expect this years 1st flush to get the fungus as well as older needles.
It can take a few years to get it under control and should be carried out annually - perpetually as the spores
are in the air from forest trees.

 

[Michigan Tree Murderer]

In treating fungus on needles, the needles will not repair, so do not expect to see the issue get better.
Daconil will not cause needle drop but fungus can. However don't intentionally spray the soil.
Overspray on the soil is ok, but direct soil spraying might interrupt the mycelium.
Still we use granular systemic in conjunction with the foliar spray to involve internal parts.
The best time to address new needles to prevent the fungus is twice sprayed in Spring.
Once as the candles are mature but not opened, again when they are partially open, maybe midways.
Application now won't hurt, but it won't give you the short term fix either. Only new needles
which are venerable to the fungus.
Now for decandleing purposes, that's a different story and one I am not familiar with given it is JBP
Consider any other pine that presents a second flush as with my 2 dwarf EWPs, to receive a 2nd treatment course.
If you have not treated for fungus as described above, expect this years 1st flush to get the fungus as well as older needles.
It can take a few years to get it under control and should be carried out annually - perpetually as the spores
are in the air from forest trees.

Should I separate this pine from the rest of my pines? I noticed the damage was only on two branches the rest of the trees needles look fine (for now). I also considered removing all the infected needles, because they're near non infected needles. I just purchased this tree last Friday, and I'm kicking myself for not seeing this.

I appreciate your advice. Thanks.

 

[Japonicus]

Should I separate this pine from the rest of my pines? I noticed the damage was only on two branches the rest of the trees needles look fine (for now). I also considered removing all the infected needles, because they're near non infected needles. I just purchased this tree last Friday, and I'm kicking myself for not seeing this.

I appreciate your advice. Thanks.

Isolation in my world is in an area without much Sun. Trees are vulnerable during the time the needles are developing
and have just opened up, so we treat just at the right time before this occurs. I personally would not isolate just for the
fact that I know the tree can be infected from the spores already in the air. Of course if you do not have any pines in
say pollination distance (which is quite a distance, and I'm sure birds and bees can carry it further) then you may be more apt to
isolate.
Search - Needlecast/Needle cast/ neeflecast by member Adair M (Adair space M)

I would commence to treating as if it were Spring candle elongation time including Infuse granular and the Daconil.
Repeat at proper time when second flush occurs to candles as mentioned in Adairs thread on it.
You can pull needles that aren't necessary to bud structure, but that's unbalancing the branch perhaps.
Still you can go ahead and balance that effort across the tree if needed, any time.
I'm also on the border line of doesn't this open a wound at point, to infection?
Cutting and pulling both create a small wound. It's going to possibly take 2 years minimum on a newly infected tree to be "clear"
of the fungus, maybe more. Then we're continually treating each Spring, so if there's a lot of needles infected I remove them
in Fall. If not I pull a small amount of infected needles and systemic protects open wounds I'm hoping.

scale?

This is scale on a pines needles. Magnifying glass confirms.

 

[Michigan Tree Murderer]

Isolation in my world is in an area without much Sun. Trees are vulnerable during the time the needles are developing
and have just opened up, so we treat just at the right time before this occurs. I personally would not isolate just for the
fact that I know the tree can be infected from the spores already in the air. Of course if you do not have any pines in
say pollination distance (which is quite a distance, and I'm sure birds and bees can carry it further) then you may be more apt to
isolate.
Search - Needlecast/Needle cast/ neeflecast by member Adair M (Adair space M)

I would commence to treating as if it were Spring candle elongation time including Infuse granular and the Daconil.
Repeat at proper time when second flush occurs to candles as mentioned in Adairs thread on it.
You can pull needles that aren't necessary to bud structure, but that's unbalancing the branch perhaps.
Still you can go ahead and balance that effort across the tree if needed, any time.
I'm also on the border line of doesn't this open a wound at point, to infection?
Cutting and pulling both create a small wound. It's going to possibly take 2 years minimum on a newly infected tree to be "clear"
of the fungus, maybe more. Then we're continually treating each Spring, so if there's a lot of needles infected I remove them
in Fall. If not I pull a small amount of infected needles and systemic protects open wounds I'm hoping.

View attachment 546669
This is scale on a pines needles. Magnifying glass confirms.

Thanks man, I'll read up on it some more, and search Adair.

 

[Japonicus]

Not sure how to link to thread on android in app...found it though


First off, never bring home a tree that’s badly infected. You will likely not be able to completely cure it, and you risk infecting your entire collection.

 

[Michigan Tree Murderer]

@Japonicus I'm on page three of that Adair thread and I'm thinking it would be cheaper to throw the pine in the garbage. Save time and my other pines trees.

 

[Betula1]

Removing all the affected needles and bin them , quarantine the tree ,or bin the tree,disinfect any pruning tools and wash hands after handling- this will reduce the source of disease spores