Lobaeux
Shohin
Not mites, but I had scale and these little guys this morning on my Grewia.
Spider Mites and conflicting info have me dizzy
- Thread starter StoneCloud
- Start date
Not mites, but I had scale and these little guys this morning on my Grewia.
StoneCloud
Omono
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
Good choice, I use it when needed. I never have seen a reason to cover the soil and have poured it into pots on occasion with no ill effects so far. Also I spray the plant shelves with it and surrounding mulch and fence a couple of times during the growing season.
As with any chemical though I strongly advise using rubber gloves when mixing and spraying. Also toss on an old long sleeve shirt and some inexpensive eye protection.
I recommend that for ANY chemical since I did some minor damage to my left eye with Copper Fungicide.
Many will argue it kills a lot of "good" bugs but we never have been lacking Bees, Praying Mantis, Spiders, or Lady bugs... so I find that hard to believe, at least here.
Grimmy
I lost a big braided oleander to scale, after I had it for 5 years, broke my heart. It also traveled to another oleander that was in the same vicinity. By the time I found something for it, I had to burn them both. I would move that away from your other trees, until you have it under control.
StoneCloud
Omono
I find myself agreeing with you here as well. I've sprayed my lawn with stuff (forgot the name) that kills everything. I have to here. there are literally a billion mosquitos, flies, etc. And yet there are always bees and wasps and spiders everywhere. Kind of happy b/c I don't want to kill the spiders etc...but it keeps the mosquitos and flies away for 4 weeks if there isn't a lot of rain and a week if there is haha.
I do watch the bees though and they are smart, after spraying the lawn I watch them fly around and they don't go for the lawn they come down and about 4 to 5 feet from the ground they fly back up. They stay away, very smart.
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
What you have is ANTS. Kill the ants and they will stop carrying aphids and putting them on your plants. Aphids don't just "show up" in a group like that - they are put there by ants who farm them for honeydew.
This is the little gardenia that had the webs. Is the yellowing indicative of spider mites? It was fine until last week. I don't think it's a watering issue. I try to keep it evenly moist, but not soaking wet. My apologies @StoneCloud for putting this on your thread.
StoneCloud
Omono
StoneCloud
Omono
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
That sounds way too sweet.
Effers....
Call them effers!
No mercy, f that tree I would light em up on it.
At least a few.
Tizorch!
Sorce
I didn't really notice it when I took the picture, but I see what you mean. I'm at work, so can't inspect closely, but I think you may be right and it is bugs
. Guess it's getting a shot of Tempo tonight. If I lose those flower buds, I'm going to be thoroughly pissed.
StoneCloud
Omono
I sprayed tonight with Tempo, that should kill all critters. I want to see it bloom!
StoneCloud
Omono
M. Frary
Bonsai Godzilla
I hose my trees with Bayer 3 in 1 systemic.
And have them planted in Diatomaceous Earth.
I have zero bugs.
And have them planted in Diatomaceous Earth.
I have zero bugs.
Dalmat
Shohin
This is the key to your problem. Three life stages of spider mites. Insecticide is not solution for spider mites you should use acaricide.
Now. some of them are killing only adults, some adults and eggs but not larvae, some adults and larvae but not eggs. According which one you have you have to repeat treatment and apply it in intervals. Simply follow the instructions on package.
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
Treatment will involve a few applications as you must interrupt the egg/life cycle. Not certain if Tempo is the correct product as I cannot see the inner label describing in detail the insects/pests it is meant for. The leaf yellowing could be acclimation. For instance some plants we bring inside for Winter will pout and drop foliage immediately one year and a month after indoors a year later. Unlikely the buds will be harmed as they look robust, getting nutrient. They could be chewed on IF those are pests so some treatment would be of no harm at this point. Tough call on this plant as it could be bugs but not certain as it looks more like potting mix residuals, at least to me.
Grimmy
StoneCloud
Omono
So they are back and more of them along with a ton of other things (it's spring and well everything is growing in number exponentially)
I've tried the other methods 4 days part, 5, 6 and 7 days apart.
Tonight i'm going to hit everything with the Malathion.
And should I hit them all again in 4 days? 6 days?
tbh this is the first time in my life i've had to use chemicals so just a little uptight.
I've tried the other methods 4 days part, 5, 6 and 7 days apart.
Tonight i'm going to hit everything with the Malathion.
And should I hit them all again in 4 days? 6 days?
tbh this is the first time in my life i've had to use chemicals so just a little uptight.
Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
- Messages
- 11,427
- Reaction score
- 23,610
- USDA Zone
- 5b
@jacob letoile and @Dalmat - both offered good advice.
@Lobaeux - those white specs look like whitefly to me
If you use the non-toxic ''safe'' sprays, like horticultural oil, soapy water, water & milk mix, or any of the other home brews, you really need to keep repeating application every few days to catch the new hatchlings from eggs laid by the previous generation. Keep spraying a couple cycles AFTER you no longer see pests.
If you are going to use a pesticide - remember, it is a highly regulated group of chemicals. Technically the labels on the pesticides carry the weight of law, and what is on the label is the limit to how it is used. There is no way around it. You need to take the time to read the labels, both before you buy, and before you spray. If a pest is not listed on the label, the pesticide will not kill that pest. This also means you really need to know what the identity of your pest is. An insecticide for mealy bug, will not kill spider mites. A pesticide for spider mites will not kill mealy bugs. The target pest MUST be listed on the label or you are wasting your money and time. Finally, you really need to read the safety precautions and wear the gear the label recommends. Also, the abbreviation REI stands for Re-Entry Interval - this is how long before you may come in contact with the trees you sprayed, or how long you have to keep the kids, pets and yourself from touching the trees. So READ, READ, READ the labels. All the inside pages. A person considered a ''professional'' can be sued for using a pesticide in a manner not itemized on the label. It is vague as to whether a hobby or home owner can be sued, but the point is, the label directions must be followed.
And to get a pesticide to work, you need to follow directions. Too dilute from label recommended concentration, and the spray will merely create a resistant strain of the bug. Too strong a concentration and you may damage the plants. Just as critical, read the label for how often to repeat applications. Repeat at recommended intervals, not a day later, so that the target pest does not have time to lay eggs. Continue to spray at least one or two intervals after you no longer see the target pest. You want to make sure you don't leave behind a residual population.
Finally, in places like Florida, if you are near any of the agricultural areas, the pest you get may be from a population that is resistant to one pesticide or another. On the label it should list a number for Mode Of Action group. If the spray you used did not seem to make a serious dent in the bug population, look for a different pesticide that lists your target pest and is in a different Mode of Action Group. For example, Malathion is an Organophosphate, which disrupts the nervous system of true insects, but largely ineffective with arachnids. Merit is a neonicotinoid, which has a different mode of action group, targets a different system in the insects body. Mavrik, Decathalon, and several others are Pyrethroid compounds, and will have a different MOA number than the previous two. If you alternate between Mavrik, & Decathalon you will be in the same MOA group and won't get any benefit from doing the alternation. Staying inside one MOA group you can develop a resistant population.
Lastly, If one plant on your bench is infected, assume all on the bench have at least a low level population of bugs. Spray everything in the vicinity. If you just spray the plant that is obviously infected, but not its neighbors, the bugs hiding on the neighbors will simply recolonize the weak plant once the pesticide has worn off from your spray.
A lot to take in. I know, but there is no way to avoid it.
Note: I did not specify any particular spray, they all have their place, and what I can get here might not be something you can get in your state.
And if you can not find a pesticide you think you need, check out http://www.hummert.com/ they will sell pesticides through the mail. I do get some of the harder to find stuff here. Not necessarily the cheapest, but they are an ''honest business''. you can count on good service. If you have a tax ID you can set up a wholesale account fairly easily.
@Lobaeux - those white specs look like whitefly to me
If you use the non-toxic ''safe'' sprays, like horticultural oil, soapy water, water & milk mix, or any of the other home brews, you really need to keep repeating application every few days to catch the new hatchlings from eggs laid by the previous generation. Keep spraying a couple cycles AFTER you no longer see pests.
If you are going to use a pesticide - remember, it is a highly regulated group of chemicals. Technically the labels on the pesticides carry the weight of law, and what is on the label is the limit to how it is used. There is no way around it. You need to take the time to read the labels, both before you buy, and before you spray. If a pest is not listed on the label, the pesticide will not kill that pest. This also means you really need to know what the identity of your pest is. An insecticide for mealy bug, will not kill spider mites. A pesticide for spider mites will not kill mealy bugs. The target pest MUST be listed on the label or you are wasting your money and time. Finally, you really need to read the safety precautions and wear the gear the label recommends. Also, the abbreviation REI stands for Re-Entry Interval - this is how long before you may come in contact with the trees you sprayed, or how long you have to keep the kids, pets and yourself from touching the trees. So READ, READ, READ the labels. All the inside pages. A person considered a ''professional'' can be sued for using a pesticide in a manner not itemized on the label. It is vague as to whether a hobby or home owner can be sued, but the point is, the label directions must be followed.
And to get a pesticide to work, you need to follow directions. Too dilute from label recommended concentration, and the spray will merely create a resistant strain of the bug. Too strong a concentration and you may damage the plants. Just as critical, read the label for how often to repeat applications. Repeat at recommended intervals, not a day later, so that the target pest does not have time to lay eggs. Continue to spray at least one or two intervals after you no longer see the target pest. You want to make sure you don't leave behind a residual population.
Finally, in places like Florida, if you are near any of the agricultural areas, the pest you get may be from a population that is resistant to one pesticide or another. On the label it should list a number for Mode Of Action group. If the spray you used did not seem to make a serious dent in the bug population, look for a different pesticide that lists your target pest and is in a different Mode of Action Group. For example, Malathion is an Organophosphate, which disrupts the nervous system of true insects, but largely ineffective with arachnids. Merit is a neonicotinoid, which has a different mode of action group, targets a different system in the insects body. Mavrik, Decathalon, and several others are Pyrethroid compounds, and will have a different MOA number than the previous two. If you alternate between Mavrik, & Decathalon you will be in the same MOA group and won't get any benefit from doing the alternation. Staying inside one MOA group you can develop a resistant population.
Lastly, If one plant on your bench is infected, assume all on the bench have at least a low level population of bugs. Spray everything in the vicinity. If you just spray the plant that is obviously infected, but not its neighbors, the bugs hiding on the neighbors will simply recolonize the weak plant once the pesticide has worn off from your spray.
A lot to take in. I know, but there is no way to avoid it.
Note: I did not specify any particular spray, they all have their place, and what I can get here might not be something you can get in your state.
And if you can not find a pesticide you think you need, check out http://www.hummert.com/ they will sell pesticides through the mail. I do get some of the harder to find stuff here. Not necessarily the cheapest, but they are an ''honest business''. you can count on good service. If you have a tax ID you can set up a wholesale account fairly easily.
Similar threads
