Should cut branches be sealed?

Mike Corazzi

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I've done both ways. With and without. For jins of course, I just let the wood be exposed.
Curious if it matters when removing a branch if the raw part should get a light coat of seal.
 
I seal them just to be safe, but sometimes I get lazy and say eff it. I use both the putty and tube paste. I think this is one of those things that would be hard to prove objectively in a study and you'll find vehement adherents on both sides of the coin, which tells me it probably doesn't matter.
 
The definitive study on this says don't do it because the sealer interferes with and slows the tree healing itself. However, the study's structure leaves a great deal to be desired and was essentially making small holes in larger trees and observing the results. This was more of lumbering tree study, IMHO. As such, it's useless to us, IMHO. I have a lot of gardening experience and wounds vary widely, to put it mildly, and species are very different, too. Big wounds on Acer and Prunus and Malus tend to attract insects that like their tasty sap (I speculate). When wood dries out the core of the branch removed shrinks, and if it has any size splits in the center making a nice portal into the the heartwood of the tree. Bugs notice this. Fungi are ubiquitous and if the wind presents them to an open wound they have a nice place to also find their way into the inner parts of the tree. I suppose if you have a towering tree and a little hole making a little blemish doesn't make any difference to you, who cares?

I don't have any trees that I want any blemishes on, period. I use standard tar dressing in my landscape and it works fine because the black blends in well over time and it does the trick, -usually. In bonsai, I use every kind of wound dressing in the book. If it's going to very visible and I don't think I can remove it from the core of the wood and the bark is thick and sturdy where an application doesn't have to get the sealer on the class A side of the bark (where the wound can be entirely sealed by coating the open end (edges)) of the bark, I use a clear liquid like Elmer's wood glue. I also use the Japanese stuff in the yellow tube with no English on the label where the bark is too thin and soft and will peel back and open up instead of laying flat. It's ugly no matter what color you use, but if you gob it on in a big enough blob it will have enough integrity to be peeled off in a few months. If too thinly applied little bits will adhere to the core and be impossible to clean out. I always overlap the edge of the wound a lot to make sure the live edges of the remaining bark are encapsulated and sealed so the bark (I speculate) more easily grows over the wound underneath the glob. My own success varies more than I like, but I think that's more species-dependent and not under my control.

Whatever else is true, I make sure the drying out of the branch core is slow (because it is in a wet place, longer), and contained, and as bug and fungi non-accessible as I can make it, and I leave as little to nature as possible. Right, wrong, or indifferent, that's my philosophy.
 
The definitive study on this says don't do it because the sealer interferes with and slows the tree healing itself. However, the study's structure leaves a great deal to be desired and was essentially making small holes in larger trees and observing the results. This was more of lumbering tree study, IMHO. As such, it's useless to us, IMHO. I have a lot of gardening experience and wounds vary widely, to put it mildly, and species are very different, too. Big wounds on Acer and Prunus and Malus tend to attract insects that like their tasty sap (I speculate). When wood dries out the core of the branch removed shrinks, and if it has any size splits in the center making a nice portal into the the heartwood of the tree. Bugs notice this. Fungi are ubiquitous and if the wind presents them to an open wound they have a nice place to also find their way into the inner parts of the tree. I suppose if you have a towering tree and a little hole making a little blemish doesn't make any difference to you, who cares?

I don't have any trees that I want any blemishes on, period. I use standard tar dressing in my landscape and it works fine because the black blends in well over time and it does the trick, -usually. In bonsai, I use every kind of wound dressing in the book. If it's going to very visible and I don't think I can remove it from the core of the wood and the bark is thick and sturdy where an application doesn't have to get the sealer on the class A side of the bark (where the wound can be entirely sealed by coating the open end (edges)) of the bark, I use a clear liquid like Elmer's wood glue. I also use the Japanese stuff in the yellow tube with no English on the label where the bark is too thin and soft and will peel back and open up instead of laying flat. It's ugly no matter what color you use, but if you gob it on in a big enough blob it will have enough integrity to be peeled off in a few months. If too thinly applied little bits will adhere to the core and be impossible to clean out. I always overlap the edge of the wound a lot to make sure the live edges of the remaining bark are encapsulated and sealed so the bark (I speculate) more easily grows over the wound underneath the glob. My own success varies more than I like, but I think that's more species-dependent and not under my control.

Whatever else is true, I make sure the drying out of the branch core is slow (because it is in a wet place, longer), and contained, and as bug and fungi non-accessible as I can make it, and I leave as little to nature as possible. Right, wrong, or indifferent, that's my philosophy.
Wow, sounds like you've learned something in the last year or so... and maybe from this thread? https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/bonsai-paste.37690/
Any way, I'm a big fan on using sealants, both paste or liquid depending on species, on all deciduous trees, and occasionally on conifers, depending on the application. As Adair said, "It depends".
 
Coincidentally, I was watching this Harry Harrington video yesterday. As we all know, Harry is a British bonsai professional widely respected in the world. He uses Vaseline to cover pruning wounds. See at 6'30" of the video. I don't know if he does this specifically for large cuts on newly collected trees as in this video. I've known arborists to use axle grease when pruning large limbs on trees.

 
Wow, sounds like you've learned something in the last year or so... and maybe from this thread? https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/bonsai-paste.37690/
Any way, I'm a big fan on using sealants, both paste or liquid depending on species, on all deciduous trees, and occasionally on conifers, depending on the application. As Adair said, "It depends".


If someone like Bill Valavanis accused himself of "diarrhea mouth", well, some of us mortals should probably get tested before we post!! ☺ ☺ ☺
 
It works but leaves a long lasting stain. Six of one...
 
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