JudyB
Queen of the Nuts
Be careful moving heavily root pruned or newly collected trees early on, as the roots you so need them to grow may be broken off as the soil shifts a little in the pot. Especially if the pot is not stiff.
My soil mix is simple: Turface All Sport roughly half and half with pine bark mulch from Home Depot. Unsifted for nursery stock, sifted for bonsai. The trees love it.RockM, Zach, whats your horn beam soil mix if i may ask? you seemed to mention mine was too coarse.. its sifted napa 8822, sifted calcine clay oil dry (I've had good luck with it in a mix) 1/4" lava, 1/4" pumice, 1/4" bark, 1/4" "bonsai block" handful of hort charcoal. probably way too expensive for what im doing with it, I do have one more hornbeam I will collect that Zach has given the green light as far as potential goes, ill cut the roots back more aggressively on that one and get it in a smaller container, and bury it deeper. I'm going to use these ones for my research this year, and leave some really good ones for next year once I have my data.
Which brand of pine bark mulch? Sifted the last of mine yesterday, so have to get some more.My soil mix is simple: Turface All Sport roughly half and half with pine bark mulch from Home Depot. Unsifted for nursery stock, sifted for bonsai. The trees love it.
Zach
I like the one Home Depot sells (down here, at least), Show Scape. It seems to be more rotted than what you get from Lowes.Which brand of pine bark mulch? Sifted the last of mine yesterday, so have to get some more.
You might find a better size at Lowe's or Home Depot under the brand Evergreen Soil Conditioner.Which brand of pine bark mulch? Sifted the last of mine yesterday, so have to get some more.
What I meant by too coarse meant that it's too free draining and contains no organic compounds. It is probably best for conifers. Organic ingredients, IMO, have a place in deciduous bonsai soil. I've used the Evergreen Soil Conditioner over the years. If you can't find that name, have a look at "clay buster" soil amendments. They are usually some form of composted pine mulch. I stopped sifting soil a very long time ago. I was finding there wasn't much return for the labor involved.RockM, Zach, whats your horn beam soil mix if i may ask? you seemed to mention mine was too coarse.. its sifted napa 8822, sifted calcine clay oil dry (I've had good luck with it in a mix) 1/4" lava, 1/4" pumice, 1/4" bark, 1/4" "bonsai block" handful of hort charcoal. probably way too expensive for what im doing with it, I do have one more hornbeam I will collect that Zach has given the green light as far as potential goes, ill cut the roots back more aggressively on that one and get it in a smaller container, and bury it deeper. I'm going to use these ones for my research this year, and leave some really good ones for next year once I have my data.
What I meant by too coarse meant that it's too free draining and contains no organic compounds. It is probably best for conifers. Organic ingredients, IMO, have a place in deciduous bonsai soil. I've used the Evergreen Soil Conditioner over the years. If you can't find that name, have a look at "clay buster" soil amendments. They are usually some form of composted pine mulch. I stopped sifting soil a very long time ago. I was finding there wasn't much return for the labor involved.
When I repotted the smaller hornbeam, I just switched to a non-organic soil. Do you think I'll have problems and should use the sphagnum as well, or is this suggestion only for freshly collected trees? I won't be able to trim the big hornbeam until this weekend. I spent last weekend unexpectedly buying a new car
You've got to reduce that trunk next year by at least half. If it were mine, I'd cut it back most of the way to that first strong shoot.
The soil sounds OK.
Sympathies on the water damage. Had much the same situation a few years ago after the roof held up four feet of snow and developed ice dams. The Serve Pro guys brought in big heaters and dehumidifiers and dried my top floor out. Didn't see the octopus thing, though.
Wow, lower than I was thinking. Then make that shoot the new leader?The one right above the soil.
I like the box Scott. Well built.
Yes, that WOULD BE DEVELOPED into the new apex, inducing some movement into it and some diameter by wiring it and then letting it grow unhindered for a couple of years, then chopping it back.
Skip the air layering. The long stretch of straight, no-taper makes this trunk pretty boring not worth the effort. The time spent air layering would be better (and more easily) spent collecting a better one.
That's what I'm doing. Learning.Oh well, I'll just work with what I have for now. Thank you for all the advice!