Question on balancing roots and canopy at repot on JM

[The Warm Canuck]

I just finished root work on this nursery JM. It's the first time I've worked the roots, so after I was done there's hardly anything left. I feel like I need to take some off the top of the tree to balance how much roots I removed, I'm worried it won't have the resources now to balance the canopy. Is my thinking right? Should I take half the top of the tree off? I realize it will slow down growth but I like to be cautious.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

That was pretty aggressive root work. I might cut branches back to one node, but more importantly is to get watering right when it does start to grow so the leaves don’t desiccate.

 

[leatherback]

I am not concerned assuming the maple was healthy beforehand. FOr next time, keep in mind the tree does need roots. Often eeping the main roots is a good idea. Then again, I am a heavy pruner.

 

[The Warm Canuck]

I am not concerned assuming the maple was healthy beforehand. FOr next time, keep in mind the tree does need roots. Often eeping the main roots is a good idea. Then again, I am a heavy pruner.

What are the "main roots"?

 

[The Warm Canuck]

That was pretty aggressive root work. I might cut branches back to one node, but more importantly is to get watering right when it does start to grow so the leaves don’t desiccate.

I guess what I'm asking is, if one is worried that they may loose the tree, what is the most safe strategy? does it do more harm to cut the tree back to the lowest branch? or would it increase it's chance of survival. Or does just cutting back to first nodes and ensuring proper watering when leafed out, the safest strategy?

 

[The Warm Canuck]

@markyscott @River's Edge

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

A couple things for you to think about.

First off there were about 90% of the roots removed. That’s an edgy move for someone new with maples..

First two of the most experienced BN’ers just gave you advice. The first gave you the safest pathway. The second less conservative and likely will work fine… especially if you were experienced with maples.

The big variable now will be the aftercare you give this tree.

Love to see the follow up this fall.

cheers
DSD sends

 

[SeanS]

What are the "main roots"?

Looks like you found the few highest roots coming out of the trunk and cut off everything below them. @leatherback is advising that one can also find where the majority of the roots (the main roots he’s referring to) and try to keep those (but obviously work them into a bonsai rootball form) and cut off any high roots instead. Not always possible if the main root ball is really bad and/or if the high roots have caused some inverse taper on the trunk already.

 

[River's Edge]

I guess what I'm asking is, if one is worried that they may loose the tree, what is the most safe strategy?

Leave the tree to recover, every bud and leaf will contribute to the root recovery and health moving forward. There is no rush you will be working on the treee for 10 or 15 years to improve it and begin refinement!
The work will proceed faster when you have developed better nebari and rootball.
If you feel the need to do more go looking for another tree! Just my thoughts!
Do pay attention to the watering and location. Morning sun, partial shade, protect from freezing!

 

[The Warm Canuck]

Looks like you found the few highest roots coming out of the trunk and cut off everything below them. @leatherback is advising that one can also find where the majority of the roots (the main roots he’s referring to) and try to keep those (but obviously work them into a bonsai rootball form) and cut off any high roots instead. Not always possible if the main root ball is really bad and/or if the high roots have caused some inverse taper on the trunk already.

Yes, there would have been massive inverse taper if I would have gone lower. With nursery stock I find it's kind of : start from the top, work from the bottom, meet in the middle at the best flare.

 

[dbonsaiw]

On the bright side, you’ve got it set up to grow great nebari. Maybe keep in a shadier spot as it opens up. Definitely make sure it doesn’t freeze. I put sphagnum moss over the soil when I butcher the roots to make sure the top layer of soil stays moist.