Question about "energy" in trees.

[MeltingSlurpee]

Good day to all.

I have read about trees using energy to push new buds(after a chop for example) and got me thinking,
at what point does the energy used for new buds gets returned by said bud?

I understand that green = photosynthesis

Does a recently chopped tree start gaining vigour after X surface area of leaves? or once leaves become a dark green? (very vague here)

I'd like to know your experiences with this subject matter. I come from a tropical climate and I got a little confused due to most bonsai cultivating information online focusing on seasonal climates.

Doe vigour boil down to just how actively the tree is growing? Apologies if my questions seem all over the place.

 

[sorce]

Missed you... Welcome to Crazy!


Check this out, I must have clicked on your name right as you changed your Avatar, cuz the thread had the plant, then it opened with the cat! I was like WTF! You got 2 pics!

Now to read and respond..

Sorce

 

[sorce]

There is a good Mirai Live on the subject.

I believe it starts working right away, but the more you leave it on, the more it "charges the system".
The larger the system, the more is stored, the more is stored the easier it is to not deplete it.

Sorce

 

[BunjaeKorea]

Good day to all.

I have read about trees using energy to push new buds(after a chop for example) and got me thinking,
at what point does the energy used for new buds gets returned by said bud?

I understand that green = photosynthesis

Does a recently chopped tree start gaining vigour after X surface area of leaves? or once leaves become a dark green? (very vague here)

I'd like to know your experiences with this subject matter. I come from a tropical climate and I got a little confused due to most bonsai cultivating information online focusing on seasonal climates.

Doe vigour boil down to just how actively the tree is growing? Apologies if my questions seem all over the place.

Trees from colder climates store energy for dormant periods and always have a reserve amount that depends on the species of tree. This is less obvious in tropicals because they do not go dormant in the same way. It means they generally reserve less energy in the form of nutrients because they can technically get energy all year or at least have sunlight all year. I am therefore reluctant to do some of the heavy work I wouldn't mind doing on trees from colder climates.
Once again the species is very important. Their growth pattern will tell you about their energy.

 

[roberthu]

There is a good Mirai Live on the subject.

I believe it starts working right away, but the more you leave it on, the more it "charges the system".
The larger the system, the more is stored, the more is stored the easier it is to not deplete it.

Sorce

Yeah Ryan calls them solar panels which is quite intuitive. Energy (sugar/starch)is used to produce solar panel, then solar panel recharges the plant combined with CO2 and water/mineral pulled from roots and the plant stores up sugar/starch again.

 

[Anthony]

@MeltingSlurpee ,

@jun ,

can help you.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

In Singapore, it is best to plan that most trees do not have large reserves of sugars stored. Sugar is how trees store energy. New leaves do not produce more energy than they consume until they are fully expanded. Then they do produce more energy (sugars) than it takes to develop the leaf.

To play safe, when pruning a tree in Singapore, or any true tropical climate, always keep a green leaf or two on every branch you want to keep.

In the tropics, you do have a group of trees from wet-dry monsoon climates. These species will store sugars during the rain season, in order to carry them through the dry, leafless season. These species can be pruned severely towards the end of the dry season, or at the beginning of the rain season, before they have expended their sugars make new leaves for the season.

With true tropicals, from wet rainforests, that never have a yearly leafless state, you should either always keep at least a few leaves on every branch, or consult with other local bonsai growers and find out how they handle that specific species.

Some species, like Ficus, respond well to severe pruning. They can be pruned to leafless stumps once every few years and they will respond well. Other species, I do not know the answer to.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Another example, conifers, in particular, in Singapore you may encounter Juniperus procumbens. The prostrate juniper. This is a conifer, you must retain green needles on a branch if the branch is to live. If you cut a branch to a leafless or needless stump, the branch will die. Similar with Pinus radiata, and Pinus thunbergiana (Japanese black pine). These two pine are tolerant of tropical conditions and are sometimes grown in tropical climates. Especially Pinus radiata, and hybrids made with P. radiata. They make good bonsai, but never prune a branch to the point where it has no needles. The branch will die.

Other trees, some tolerate severe pruning, some do not.