ah, right - then, yeah! This does make me think a bit more about how sunlight differences could affect air layers or ground layers and what might be done in response to ensure better layering. Good thinking, @JoeR . I probably wouldn't have given it a second thought if you hadn't commented. Thanks!
It would probably root either way. The wire can help in several other ways though - it makes it harder for the tree to heal over the cut, and it prevents whatever roots do form from growing straight down along the trunk . . .
some of my anthocyanin rich orchids are the same way, and I always find it charming. Looks like it's growing a bunch of new roots near the soil surface. It's also finally pushing actual extension growth 
If you use this Hormone around the top cut only it will callus 10 times more and flare roots out all around the base, the wire is not necessary at all.
I actually said "duh" out loud when I read that; haha. Why would anyone put hormone on the bottom cut?! Seems a silly thing to point out, but I guess someone somewhere has probably done it - "do not iron while wearing."
That sounds a tad hyperbolic to me, but I am shopping for new rooting hormones, so I'll take a look. That appears to be their liquid - which concentration is it? Edit: I should add that I did use a powdered rooting hormone on this layer. So the comparison would be between hormones, not hormex vs. not using one at all.
Perhaps, but I like the peace of mind that it provides me by making it that much more difficult for the tree to bridge the cut - you can see in the photos that it tried.
Yes, but in trying to apply only to the top it can run onto the bottom and cause green shoots that will rott your roots in the layer.I actually said "duh" out loud when I read that; haha. Why would anyone put hormone on the bottom cut?! Seems a silly thing to point out, but I guess someone somewhere has probably done it - "do not iron while wearing."
That sounds a tad hyperbolic to me, but I am shopping for new rooting hormones, so I'll take a look. That appears to be their liquid - which concentration is it? Edit: I should add that I did use a powdered rooting hormone on this layer. So the comparison would be between hormones, not hormex vs. not using one at all.
Perhaps, but I like the peace of mind that it provides me by making it that much more difficult for the tree to bridge the cut - you can see in the photos that it tried.
A bit more than 5 months after the first post (so at least 3 since separation), this is doing well, and I am very pleased with its survival.
Also in the pic there is still Phloem left on the wood, this will cause it try to bridge itself.I actually said "duh" out loud when I read that; haha. Why would anyone put hormone on the bottom cut?! Seems a silly thing to point out, but I guess someone somewhere has probably done it - "do not iron while wearing."
That sounds a tad hyperbolic to me, but I am shopping for new rooting hormones, so I'll take a look. That appears to be their liquid - which concentration is it? Edit: I should add that I did use a powdered rooting hormone on this layer. So the comparison would be between hormones, not hormex vs. not using one at all.
Perhaps, but I like the peace of mind that it provides me by making it that much more difficult for the tree to bridge the cut - you can see in the photos that it tried.
A bit more than 5 months after the first post (so at least 3 since separation), this is doing well, and I am very pleased with its survival.
Right idea, but wrong tissue/term. Phloem is also known as 'inner bark'.
This is nonsense. Cutting the girdle stimulates the release of buds below it. Slopping some rooting hormone on the bottom of the girdle will only have a brief effect and that will be to suppress, not encourage, shoots below.
Well, this is one of my hundreds of air layers produced alongside a Mizzou horticulture graduate and his professor on a 900 acre tree farm. Just trying to help. You can make anything work
Nice pic of new roots, but what is your point?View attachment 83283 Well, this is one of my hundreds of air layers produced alongside a Mizzou horticulture graduate and his professor on a 900 acre tree farm. Just trying to help. You can make anything work
