Progressing a funky airlayer parent

[apr]

Hi folks

I am very much a beginner and looking for some suggestions on how to progress this parent tree. You can obviously see where an air layer was taken from it before I got hold of it.

There is a slight inverse taper in the trunk which is less obvious with the front showing the roots, but the layering wound is glaring.

(I dont like the random piece of concrete its sat on either but perhaps another issue for another time).

I can only really thing to chop where I've added the red line, to continue the movement with one branch pad forming a new apex, and ditching the two branches.

As I type this I am also now thinking that each branch is a bit taperless and perhaps to hard chop across below the lowest branch and hopefully get some suitable new buds and start from scratch?

I know its not a fantastic piece of starting material but I may as well strive to make it the best I can.

Tree appears to be otherwise happy and health. Has been sat outdoors all year in NE Scotland and hasn't minded some prolonged snow and negative temperatures we've had recently.

Thanks for any suggestions.


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[Shibui]

I agree with the red line being a possible chop point. Can't see the down angle of that top branch being useful for any continuation of the trunk.
The longer branch at the red line might be flexible enough to move a little if needed to match the trunk line below.
Leave chopping the branch until you see what it looks like. The great thing about Chinese elm is that it will sprout new buds anywhere after a chop so reducing branches is no problem. If necessary you could even chop the trunk below the existing branches but that would probably be a last resort if the first chop doesn't achieve the required results.

Elms also later easily so when those roots get too much to bear you could layer at root level to get a better nebari and get rid of the concrete.

 

[apr]

I agree with the red line being a possible chop point. Can't see the down angle of that top branch being useful for any continuation of the trunk.
The longer branch at the red line might be flexible enough to move a little if needed to match the trunk line below.
Leave chopping the branch until you see what it looks like. The great thing about Chinese elm is that it will sprout new buds anywhere after a chop so reducing branches is no problem. If necessary you could even chop the trunk below the existing branches but that would probably be a last resort if the first chop doesn't achieve the required results.

Elms also later easily so when those roots get too much to bear you could layer at root level to get a better nebari and get rid of the concrete.

Am I right in thinking chinese elms are pretty bomb proof and that I could potentially trunk chop and repot at the same time? I slipped potted it in August last year as the ceramic it was in was smashed to bits when it arrived.

I'll check the flexibility of that top branch but It could be a case of starting over.

If I was to remove the section with the two branches or do the full chop, is there a best time of year to do this ?

Thanks

 

[Shibui]

Timing usually has a lot to do with seasons and seasons depend what part of the world we are in. I had to go back and reread the original post to find out you are in Scotland. Much better to add that location to your profile so it shows up each time you post. Saves us lots of scrolling.

Chinese elms are pretty much bomb proof. I routinely chop and repot these. I do most repotting in Early spring, when the new shoots are beginning to open but I also know that Chinese elms are not always deciduous. In warmer areas they don't go dormant. Growers there have discovered that Chinese elm can be root pruned and repotted all year round. In my cooler climate I've lost a few C.E.s after root pruning early in winter. Not sure if that can be generalised or was just a co-incidence but I only repot in Spring now.

Chopping can be done pretty much year round. Chop in Spring gives quick results - and relief from anxiety. Chop in Autumn or winter and the tree will wait until the following spring to sprout - which can seem like a veeerrrry long time so I usually wait for the Spring/Early Summer window.