Preventative Dormant Spraying

[just.wing.it]

I had a very springlike day today, so I pulled everything out for a dose of copper fungicide spray.
I think I will hit them with a sulfur spray also, closer to spring....after repotting for the ones that are being repotted.

I'm hoping that these preventative measures will keep my trees in good shape for 2018.

I also have Daconil and Neem oil, plus other horticultural oil that I can use if needed during the year.

I had good success with Neem oil last year in my war against the aphids on my crape myrtle....though each success was temporary...gonna be moving this spring, so hopefully ants won't be there...yeah right....

How about Daconil for dormant spraying?

Would all 3 be too much, Daconil, Copper and Sulfur?

What do you use?

I think if I see aphids again I'll go with some sort of systemic...

 

[Stan Kengai]

That's a whole lot of spraying you're contemplating. If I were you, I would try to find out what in my local climate/environment and/or horticultural practices might be causing the problem. Spraying too much can actually exacerbate the problem. Be mindful of the difference between a minor problem and an infestation. Don't spray for a minor problem, when you can hand pick infected leaves or minor aphid outbreaks.

 

[just.wing.it]

That's a whole lot of spraying you're contemplating. If I were you, I would try to find out what in my local climate/environment and/or horticultural practices might be causing the problem. Spraying too much can actually exacerbate the problem. Be mindful of the difference between a minor problem and an infestation. Don't spray for a minor problem, when you can hand pick infected leaves or minor aphid outbreaks.

Well, I've not actually had any bad fungal issues other that Elm leaf black spot, but who doesn't get that?
The Daconil did clear it up after a month of weekly applications.

I'm just trying to be proactive about it.
I've read of others doing multiple dormant sprays, probably fall, winter and early spring...but I don't know what is best to use...
I figure low dose dilutions of a few things should cover my bases....

I do appreciate your message though, it is good to be cautious, and not over do it.
I will say, I've heard of people "dipping" their trees in Daconil, which I don't have the guts to do....
Spraying the branches and trunk is one thing, but soaking the roots scares me a bit....

 

[Stan Kengai]

The multiple dormant spray applications are for insects (dormant oil) and fungus (lime sulfur), with only one application of each. @markyscott has a good thread explaining the procedure. Follow this, and you'll take care of 80% of your problems. Then you can spot treat any issues that pop up during the growing season.

 

[Bonsai Nut]

I am a big believer in neem oil. I started by using it on my citrus, and now during the winter I spray at least monthly on my citrus, stone fruits and all my bonsai. I had heard that it may cause burning on deciduous leaves in combination with direct sun, but for a dormant spray I have seen no negative impact on any tree species. It is the #1 treatment for mites on pines. It will destroy over-wintering insect eggs. I love it. It does have a strong odor, but I don't find it that offensive. To me it smells like... "victory".

For anti-fungals, I use a rotation of 3 different anti-fungal treatments in close proximity to one another. But I generally only do this after a lot of rain.

 

[Bonsai Nut]

I should maybe add... for insects I use pyrethrins during the summer - particularly on anything I am going to eat (citrus, stone fruits).

 

[markyscott]

I had a very springlike day today, so I pulled everything out for a dose of copper fungicide spray.
I think I will hit them with a sulfur spray also, closer to spring....after repotting for the ones that are being repotted.

I'm hoping that these preventative measures will keep my trees in good shape for 2018.

I also have Daconil and Neem oil, plus other horticultural oil that I can use if needed during the year.

I had good success with Neem oil last year in my war against the aphids on my crape myrtle....though each success was temporary...gonna be moving this spring, so hopefully ants won't be there...yeah right....

How about Daconil for dormant spraying?

Would all 3 be too much, Daconil, Copper and Sulfur?

What do you use?

I think if I see aphids again I'll go with some sort of systemic...

JWI - Dormant spraying is different. First, you’re spraying to kill dormant insects and/or their eggs. Normal insecticides don’t work - you have to smother them with some kind of oil. Neem, a vegetable oil, would work or you could use a dormant oil spray, which is a highly refined petroleum product. You can spray in concentrations that would normally cause significant damage to the foliage, because the tree is not in leaf. Dormant concentrations for the Bonide, All Seasons Oil I use is 8oz per gallon - that’s roughly triple the in season concentration. The oil covers the spiracles, smothering overwintering insects on your tree. It’s very effective at a time when normal insecticides are completely ineffective.

Second, you’re spraying to kill emergent fungi. Fungicides like daconil and copper are completely ineffective this time of year because they don’t work on spores. Pretty much nothing works on the spores so don’t spray for fungi when your tree is dormant. At that time the fungi are dormant too. Instead, wait until the buds are just starting to swell in the spring. When you’re tree is starting to wake up, the fungus is starting to wake up. You have a moment to kill any fungus on your tree when its emerging from dormancy and before it enters the green tissue of your plant. And you can spray at dormant concentrations. I use lime sulfur at concentrations that would normally cause a lot of foliage damage if the tree were in leaf - but you can do it then with no risk to the plant. It’s also highly effective if you time it right. Once the tree enters the green tissue, it’s too late. You can’t spray at dormant concentrations as it would damage the plant, and it’s unlikely it would be very effective once it enters the tissue anyway.

The whole point of this is to A) give your plants a good start in spring - once the healthy growth hardens off you’ll have a lot less problems with fungus and insects anyway and B) reduce your reliance on all of those rough chemicals - you should hopefully be spraying a lot less rather than a lot more.

Here are a the articles @Stan Kengai mentioned:
https://www.facebook.com/notes/houston-bonsai-society/dormant-spraying/1335155469848406/
https://www.facebook.com/notes/hous...ose-on-the-texas-gulf-coast/1384161804947772/

Scott

 

[markyscott]

Make sure to read the articles - there are a lot of things you can do to help with fungal problems. Things like - grow your tree in a coarse mixture that doesn’t stay wet all the time, don’t overhead water, keep the foliage dry, etc...

Fungal problems are big on the Gulf Coast - almost everyone I know who grows maples or chinese elm down here has them because the summers a long and about eleventy million percent humidity. But they can be dealt with - you just have to stay on top of your dormant spraying and plantsmanship.

Good luck

Scott

 

[milehigh_7]

I've been using neem for the first time if you can believe it. I love the way it smells! Is that weird?

 

[just.wing.it]

JWI - Dormant spraying is different. First, you’re spraying to kill dormant insects and/or their eggs. Normal insecticides don’t work - you have to smother them with some kind of oil. Neem, a vegetable oil, would work or you could use a dormant oil spray, which is a highly refined petroleum product. You can spray in concentrations that would normally cause significant damage to the foliage, because the tree is not in leaf. Dormant concentrations for the Bonide, All Seasons Oil I use is 8oz per gallon - that’s roughly triple the in season concentration. The oil covers the spiracles, smothering overwintering insects on your tree. It’s very effective at a time when normal insecticides are completely ineffective.

Second, you’re spraying to kill emergent fungi. Fungicides like daconil and copper are completely ineffective this time of year because they don’t work on spores. Pretty much nothing works on the spores so don’t spray for fungi when your tree is dormant. At that time the fungi are dormant too. Instead, wait until the buds are just starting to swell in the spring. When you’re tree is starting to wake up, the fungus is starting to wake up. You have a moment to kill any fungus on your tree when its emerging from dormancy and before it enters the green tissue of your plant. And you can spray at dormant concentrations. I use lime sulfur at concentrations that would normally cause a lot of foliage damage if the tree were in leaf - but you can do it then with no risk to the plant. It’s also highly effective if you time it right. Once the tree enters the green tissue, it’s too late. You can’t spray at dormant concentrations as it would damage the plant, and it’s unlikely it would be very effective once it enters the tissue anyway.

The whole point of this is to A) give your plants a good start in spring - once the healthy growth hardens off you’ll have a lot less problems with fungus and insects anyway and B) reduce your reliance on all of those rough chemicals - you should hopefully be spraying a lot less rather than a lot more.

Here are a the articles @Stan Kengai mentioned:
https://www.facebook.com/notes/houston-bonsai-society/dormant-spraying/1335155469848406/
https://www.facebook.com/notes/hous...ose-on-the-texas-gulf-coast/1384161804947772/

Scott

Thanks so much Scott!
I see what you're saying!
Much appreciated!

 

[jacob letoile]

I figure low dose dilutions of a few things should cover my bases....

Please don't use a solution more dilute than the label. That is how you select for resistant strains.

This is a video that shows what happens when you use low doses of *.cides. You need to hit it with a sufficient dose, first time to do the job.

 

[just.wing.it]

Please don't use a solution more dilute than the label. That is how you select for resistant strains.

Thanks, I'll take a look at that once I get a minute here...working today.
Thanks!

This is a video that shows what happens when you use low doses of *.cides. You need to hit it with a sufficient dose, first time to do the job.

 

[eb84327]

https://www.using-hydrogen-peroxide.com/gardening-with-hydrogen-peroxide.html