Newcomer - Water and Light Help?

[Zoid Bacon]

Hello everyone! I was just gifted a small ficus bonsai and I want to make sure I take good care of it. I am very interested in getting into bonsai but I am relatively new to the world of plant care. Here are my main questions:

1. How much should I water it, and how do I tell if I am watering it too much or too little? Is there some sort of moisture meter I should buy to test the soil?
2. When does it need fertilizer and how much / what kind?
3. I have plenty of windows that get good light throughout the day. Should I try to give the tree lots of direct light or just let it get ambient light in the room?
4. How do I know when it's time to re-pot?

To clarify I will be keeping the tree indoors since I don't have a yard. I am in the american midwest.

 

[Bnana]

Which species is it? There are a lot of ficus species. Most do like light.

You can use a moisture meter, known at tooth pick out match stick. Have it in the soil and pull out when you want to check. Is the end dry? Than you have to water.

It's a plant, fertilise as any other plant. Less on winter when it hardly grows.

If there are lots of roots in the pot clogging it you need to repot or trim the roots.

 

[sorce]

Pics!

Welcome to Crazy!

Some "gift" fici can be potted in drainless pots in poor soil etc....
That'll determine many things.

I think ambient light away from cold windows is better, but you won't get "bonsaiable" growth without lights or outdoors.

Sorce

 

[penumbra]

Helps to know your climate. American midwest tells us nothing. You could be zone 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 8 and maybe 9. This affects your total plant care inside or out.

 

[Michael P]

Re light, put the tree in the brightest window you have. Indoor bonsai need all the light they can get.

 

[Zoid Bacon]

Wow, lots of great responses! I really am brand new to this so let me give you more information.

Which species is it? There are a lot of ficus species. Most do like light.

You can use a moisture meter, known at tooth pick out match stick. Have it in the soil and pull out when you want to check. Is the end dry? Than you have to water.

It's a plant, fertilise as any other plant. Less on winter when it hardly grows.

If there are lots of roots in the pot clogging it you need to repot or trim the roots.

I don't know which species I'm afraid, the tag doesn't say. Hopefully someone can help me identify it! Pic attached.

So as long as a toothpick in the soil isn't dry we're good? I'm nervous about the chances of over or under watering. What general frequency of watering would you recommend, and is there a preferred method (I know some people like spritzer bottles)?

Pics!

Welcome to Crazy!

Some "gift" fici can be potted in drainless pots in poor soil etc....
That'll determine many things.

I think ambient light away from cold windows is better, but you won't get "bonsaiable" growth without lights or outdoors.

Sorce

Pics attached!

Helps to know your climate. American midwest tells us nothing. You could be zone 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 8 and maybe 9. This affects your total plant care inside or out.

I looked up the USDA Plant Hardiness Map which I assume is what you're referring to? If so I am in zone 6a.

Re light, put the tree in the brightest window you have. Indoor bonsai need all the light they can get.

I'm hearing a little bit of conflicting info. You say brightest light in a window would be best, but sorce says ambient light away from cold windows is better. My windows don't seal very well, so if it's in a window it will get fairly cold. I assume it's best to prefer temperature over direct light in this case?

If it will struggle to get enough light even in a bright room then I am not opposed to looking at a grow light.

 

[Michael P]

The tag says Ficus 'Too Little', which is a variety of Ficus benjamina. Like most ficus, this is an easy plant. As bonsai they don't respond well to drastic pruning, but that is about the only thing to be careful about.

As long as the temperature inside the window is above 45 F, the ficus will be fine. Seriously, light is the biggest problem for indoor bonsai, so put it in that window.

 

[penumbra]

The above is good for maintaining it this winter.^^^
If you want to actually grow it this winter get a plant light and keep it above 60 F.

 

[Bnana]

Indeed if the toothpick still feels moist it means the plant has enough water. It is an easy trick.
How often you have to water depends on the local conditions (heating, air moisture, pot size, plant size) so that is something you'll have to figure out.

Often ficusses are in standstill in winter and grow in summer. With additional light you can let it grow in winter.

 

[sorce]

grow light

Just make sure you can fit about 8 more trees under the light! Cuz "they'll come" whether you "build it" or not!
For that reason I'm guessing Iowa! Best stick it in your profile!

That's a right nice tree!

I would make a fast decision, (that's fast decision specifically without action) about them new shoots lower on the trunk.
Since it is right difficult to have low branches become thicker than top ones under light, as necessary to obey the design rule, "lowest branches thickest, thinning up to the top"....

You can either cut em off, so you don't get a bulgy eyesore mid trunk....

Or what I think may prove better over time...
Cut back TO them to restart a more balanced canopy.

Then you can root the top part as a cutting.

You shouldn't have to do anything fast, so after a winter of study, you'll come up with a good plan to execute next year!

Too.... something like a "bottom saucer" to a 12" terra Cotta pot, wide and shallow, with some drainage holes, would be good to Repot it into, again never soon, that'll allow the roots room to stretch out and flare your base.

BACON!

Sorce

 

[Zoid Bacon]

The tag says Ficus 'Too Little', which is a variety of Ficus benjamina. Like most ficus, this is an easy plant. As bonsai they don't respond well to drastic pruning, but that is about the only thing to be careful about.

As long as the temperature inside the window is above 45 F, the ficus will be fine. Seriously, light is the biggest problem for indoor bonsai, so put it in that window.

I foolishly assumed that 'Too Little' was a fun nickname and not an actual variety, now I know! Good to know about temperature. I guess I have to remember this is a tree and not a more fragile herb or something. I may try it out right on the window sill then. Maybe I'll move inward at night if it's going to be sub-freezing out.

The above is good for maintaining it this winter.^^^
If you want to actually grow it this winter get a plant light and keep it above 60 F.

Good to know. Regarding maintaining in winter / growing in summer, does the tree actually "care" when it grows? Or if you give it the right lighting and temperature conditions will it just grow continuously? Is there any problem with letting it go kind of dormant for the winter and then changing my mind and getting a grow light? Or can you adjust conditions at any time?

Indeed if the toothpick still feels moist it means the plant has enough water. It is an easy trick.
How often you have to water depends on the local conditions (heating, air moisture, pot size, plant size) so that is something you'll have to figure out.

Often ficusses are in standstill in winter and grow in summer. With additional light you can let it grow in winter.

Cool, I'll start getting familiar with the frequency required for the toothpick method. The air in my place gets really dry from the heater but I do try to balance that with a humidifier. I'll try to put that near the tree.

Just make sure you can fit about 8 more trees under the light! Cuz "they'll come" whether you "build it" or not!
For that reason I'm guessing Iowa! Best stick it in your profile!

That's a right nice tree!

I would make a fast decision, (that's fast decision specifically without action) about them new shoots lower on the trunk.
Since it is right difficult to have low branches become thicker than top ones under light, as necessary to obey the design rule, "lowest branches thickest, thinning up to the top"....

You can either cut em off, so you don't get a bulgy eyesore mid trunk....

Or what I think may prove better over time...
Cut back TO them to restart a more balanced canopy.

Then you can root the top part as a cutting.

You shouldn't have to do anything fast, so after a winter of study, you'll come up with a good plan to execute next year!

Too.... something like a "bottom saucer" to a 12" terra Cotta pot, wide and shallow, with some drainage holes, would be good to Repot it into, again never soon, that'll allow the roots room to stretch out and flare your base.

BACON!

Sorce

Haha I definitely can see myself getting sucked into this hobby. And good guess, but Ohio.

Cut back to them as in just chop the tree in half above those sprouts? Bold! That might be a little too "expert difficulty" for me. The styling aspect of bonsai is definitely something I'm going to have to read up on. I've no expectation that I'll achieve a particularly beautiful bonsai with this tree - if I simply manage to keep it alive and growing that will be a success for me!

I will probably take those lower sprouts off, then I'll familiarize myself with ficus styling and maybe try to guide the upper branches a little. I'll look into other pots as well. Wide and shallow is preferred for ficus?

 

[Michael P]

"Good to know. Regarding maintaining in winter / growing in summer, does the tree actually "care" when it grows? Or if you give it the right lighting and temperature conditions will it just grow continuously? Is there any problem with letting it go kind of dormant for the winter and then changing my mind and getting a grow light? Or can you adjust conditions at any time?"

With most tropicals including ficus, you can do either. But pick one and don't switch back and forth in the same season. Trees need some consistency.

". . . if I simply manage to keep it alive and growing that will be a success for me!"

This is always the first step. Get it through the winter, the most difficult season for indoor trees. Move it outside next spring when temperatures are warm enough. When it is growing rapidly in late spring or early summer will be the best time for pruning, re-potting, wiring, and all that other bonsai styling stuff.

 

[Zoid Bacon]

"Good to know. Regarding maintaining in winter / growing in summer, does the tree actually "care" when it grows? Or if you give it the right lighting and temperature conditions will it just grow continuously? Is there any problem with letting it go kind of dormant for the winter and then changing my mind and getting a grow light? Or can you adjust conditions at any time?"

With most tropicals including ficus, you can do either. But pick one and don't switch back and forth in the same season. Trees need some consistency.

". . . if I simply manage to keep it alive and growing that will be a success for me!"

This is always the first step. Get it through the winter, the most difficult season for indoor trees. Move it outside next spring when temperatures are warm enough. When it is growing rapidly in late spring or early summer will be the best time for pruning, re-potting, wiring, and all that other bonsai styling stuff.

Noted! I'll make a decision soon on weather or not to spring for a grow light and I'll stick with that choice until spring.

I don't have any outdoor space (I'm in an upper-floors apartment with no balcony), so it's going to have to be an indoor tree indefinitely. But in the spring I can make sure it's getting extra light.

 

[penumbra]

Good to know. Regarding maintaining in winter / growing in summer, does the tree actually "care" when it grows? Or if you give it the right lighting and temperature conditions will it just grow continuously? Is there any problem with letting it go kind of dormant for the winter and then changing my mind and getting a grow light? Or can you adjust conditions at any time?

I have a lot of ficus and I do both. It is important to go one way or the other and not switch back and forth. Its less work to simply let them go dormant. Its more fun to keep them growing so you have something to work on and results you can see. And then there are special considerations like re-potting. If you are allowing dormancy, do not re-pot until plant is actively growing again. If you want to re-pot in winter, keep the ficus growing with lots of light and warmth. Another consideration is the type of ficus. There are many different types and care requirements can vary significantly. For instance, Willow Leaf Ficus has a tendency to drop its leaves and go dormant. In fact, this is the way most people grow them. I have chosen to keep mine growing all winter and given light and warmth, they are growing vigorously.
Too Little is a very popular dwarf Ficus benjamini It is much less sensitive to leaf drop than its parents. The choice of growing it through the winter are allowing it to just "be" is up to you. I am with Sorce on this. Buy some more plants and get a good light. Even an LED shoplight will work, but a bonified grow light is better. Keep temps over 60 F and higher is better. There are a lot of ficus and several other hardy tropicals that will happily live together.
Welcome to Our world. Grow with Us.

 

[penumbra]

This Willow Leaf was bare the past two winters but this year I brought it in early and kept it warm and well lighted. It is sitting next to me now, about 30 inches away.

 

[sorce]

Cut back to them as in just chop the tree in half above those sprouts? Bold! That might be a little too "expert difficulty" for me.

I'm taking that "little too" as ingenious wordplay.

The styling aspect of bonsai is definitely something I'm going to have to read up on.

You have plenty of time.

I've no expectation that I'll achieve a particularly beautiful bonsai with this tree - if I simply manage to keep it alive and growing that will be a success for me!

Have the expectation. My most enjoyable tree is a cutting from the ficus that shoved me onto this endeavor. They are nearly indestructible, so long as you don't throw them in a fire.

will probably take those lower sprouts off, then I'll familiarize myself with ficus styling and maybe try to guide the upper branches a little. I'll look into other pots as well. Wide and shallow is preferred for ficus?

Since it will always throw more shoots in that area, it would be completely safe to knock them off and still have that as a plan B later.
Lot to learn about pot selection in time. I was told a wide shallow container helps flare the base, did it, and found it true. Timing, is nothing and everything.

You've thought of the actual temperature of your window, thought about the effects of your heater, these are things that actually matter that normally, people don't consider. Tells me you have more than what it takes to be successful.

Morce

 

[sorce]

Just some confidence boosters. But eff boosters.

The cutting from the original.

Ficus Ben over Rockish type Material.

Nutters, A cutting from my original Ben, I put it on this (melted asphalt Rockish type material) rock about a year ago. The rock is about 4-5 inches with about an inch over the soil now, I intend to expose it to an inch under the soil in spring, and maybe pot it proper. It will stand...

www.bonsainut.com

The one that went in a wide shallow pot.

Concrete hollow patch.

I saw Peter Tea do this with a trident. Having some concrete left over from my pot project, I decided why not. Heres the hole. This is part of my OG Benjamin. Sentimental practice material, emphasis on the mental. It's In a pot poured haphazardly of hydraulic cement. There's the taper Im...

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The one I wish I didn't wait so long to graft.

Purpose of the past post. Giant Ficus.

Reducing the giant. Past post on the airlayer circled in red. http://bonsainut.com/forums/showthread.php?17046-Radialayer%99-a-season-saver I aqcuired this tree last November. Craigslist freebie. Had to go before a Thanksgiving party so I drove it home a couple days before tday last year on...

www.bonsainut.com

I still want to graft a different foliage to that last one, since it grows in a shit pattern.

If I had the appropriate confidence I wouldn't have wasted so many years. Lock it down!

Sorce

 

[sorce]

But eff lock it down! Lol!

Sorce

 

[Orion_metalhead]

As far as water, if the soil drains really well, and the particles are large, you can water it pretty much every day with little issue... it's only when it is sitting in standing water with no air getting to the roots that you should worry. Ficus handle water and moisture well.

Brightest window is good. I take my ficus in and they get artificial light in the basement all winter and do ok. You may see leaf drop when moving to a new spot with new temperature and light conditions. If leafs start to fall, just cut back on water a little and wait for it to leaf back out.