Newbies - want to share your trees?

I couldn’t load all of my pictures.. All these are in various stages of growth.. some recently collected, some first flush after cutback, some still container growing. All my plants are either nursery stock or wild grown chopped and dug.
 
Group foto of this years additions last year I thought I could start with sticks in pots. But after a trip to Japan I made my first purchase at the Trophy (west Europes biggest bonsai event), that was the big satsuki, soon followed by the Carpinus betulus, Magnolia liliflora, Acer campestre, another satsuki and my favourite the Styrax japonica.

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@dcbonsai
When you are looking at a piece of material, boxwood, juniper, whatever. And you can decide what to do, the best advice is to set the pruners down, and back away from the tree. Let it grow a while.

Seriously. Often with new to bonsai, and or new material, the best answer is let it grow. This accomplishes 2 things.
If the material is new material, sparse, or not overly dense with branches, letting it grow will allow time for new buds, new branches and new growth to develop. Often the branches you need for a good design are simply not there yet.

Second, in the case of material with many branches, often we can't see the tree because the "forest" is in the way. Many of the better artists will keep a new acquisition growing on their bench for a year or two before doing any styling. This is to give them time to evaluate, time to make sure the tree s healthy and time for the mind and imagination to try out different ideas.

I have a boxwood. It has been kicking around my backyard. I got it maybe 2010. I could never quite "see the tree", I wanted to make an old live oak look for this boxwood. First picture is from 2014. I had already had it around a while. I took a pruner to it without thought or planning. Butchered it. Then stopped myself before going too far. It did not back bud anywhere I wanted it to. I've just been leaving it alone, to let it re-grow branches where I might be able to use them. So I am just leaving it grow until I have "Inspiration". So far, its safe. I'm leaving it alone. Second Picture is this year, 2020. I still don't "see the tree in there". I got a couple ideas, but I'm not really ready to tackle it. Needs more branches to work on.

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So the point is, when you are stumped. Put the pruners down. Just let it grow, give it another year or two. If it takes 10 years to come up with a plan, no big deal. Eventually you will come up with a plan that uses branches that are actually there. The wait time allows 2 things, the tree to grow, giving you new possible branches to work with, and it gives your imagination time to grow, to consider different images.

So don't feel "you got to prune it NOW, because it is bonsai". Sometime the best bonsai are trees we took a couple years to get around to.
 
Loving all the posts 😊 here's another contribution to the cause - enjoying this little potentilla! Not too shabby for £8. Really love the flower colour
 

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Good time to remind you Newbs all these trees are going to need "away care" when you can go on vacation!

Of course, the truely dedicated vacation under tiny shade trees.

Glad you all supported this thread and our community.

Now go start some progression threads!

Sorce
 
Good time to remind you Newbs all these trees are going to need "away care" when you can go on vacation!

Of course, the truely dedicated vacation under tiny shade trees.

Glad you all supported this thread and our community.

Now go start some progression threads!

Sorce

Funny you should say that! I have 4 nights away next week, luckily I have a cat feeder and plant waterer on hand 😊
 
Funny you should say that! I have 4 nights away next week, luckily I have a cat feeder and plant waterer on hand 😊

You might be better off training the cat to water than a human! 😉

I highly suggest a monetary incentive, and at least 2 days training....for the humans!

Sorce
 
You might be better off training the cat to water than a human! 😉

I highly suggest a monetary incentive, and at least 2 days training....for the humans!

Sorce

It's my fella's brother - there will definitely be money involved, perhaps a bonus if no fatalities 😂 he's booked in for his training on Saturday 👍🏻🤞🏻🙏
 
@dcbonsai
When you are looking at a piece of material, boxwood, juniper, whatever. And you can decide what to do, the best advice is to set the pruners down, and back away from the tree. Let it grow a while.

Seriously. Often with new to bonsai, and or new material, the best answer is let it grow. This accomplishes 2 things.
If the material is new material, sparse, or not overly dense with branches, letting it grow will allow time for new buds, new branches and new growth to develop. Often the branches you need for a good design are simply not there yet.

Second, in the case of material with many branches, often we can't see the tree because the "forest" is in the way. Many of the better artists will keep a new acquisition growing on their bench for a year or two before doing any styling. This is to give them time to evaluate, time to make sure the tree s healthy and time for the mind and imagination to try out different ideas.

I have a boxwood. It has been kicking around my backyard. I got it maybe 2010. I could never quite "see the tree", I wanted to make an old live oak look for this boxwood. First picture is from 2014. I had already had it around a while. I took a pruner to it without thought or planning. Butchered it. Then stopped myself before going too far. It did not back bud anywhere I wanted it to. I've just been leaving it alone, to let it re-grow branches where I might be able to use them. So I am just leaving it grow until I have "Inspiration". So far, its safe. I'm leaving it alone. Second Picture is this year, 2020. I still don't "see the tree in there". I got a couple ideas, but I'm not really ready to tackle it. Needs more branches to work on.

View attachment 317941

View attachment 317942

So the point is, when you are stumped. Put the pruners down. Just let it grow, give it another year or two. If it takes 10 years to come up with a plan, no big deal. Eventually you will come up with a plan that uses branches that are actually there. The wait time allows 2 things, the tree to grow, giving you new possible branches to work with, and it gives your imagination time to grow, to consider different images.

So don't feel "you got to prune it NOW, because it is bonsai". Sometime the best bonsai are trees we took a couple years to get around to.

Thank you Leo for the words of wisdom!

The pruning itself however gives one a sense of feeling of MAKING your own bonsai, and this (false) feeling is quite intriguing, making the waiting unbearable😀
 
The cure for impatience is to get more trees! The "correct size" collection of bonsai and pre-bonsai is to have enough trees that you have a hard time keeping up with all of them. If you are always a little behind on keeping up with bonsai tasks, then you will be able to leave a tree alone for a while without over-working it to death. I'm partly joking, partly serious. If you have a collection of 30 or 50 or even 100 sticks in pots, you then have a large enough group that you can let a few grow for a number of years without impatience. This works for a while. Young trees, the proverbial "sticks in pots" take very little work. Often you cut one or two branches, then leave them alone for one or two or even 3 years. Having the patience to do this for one lone "stick in a pot" is difficult. But if you have a larger bunch of them, it becomes much easier to let them grow, when they need to grow.

The downside of this approach is that as trees develop, they need more time and effort from their grower. It is hard to appreciate, until you have a mature bonsai of medium or large size. I have a jack pine that is "not ready" for its first show yet. It is large enough, with enough branches that just applying wire requires about 10 to 15 hours. I have to spread the work out over several days. Obviously if I had a collection of 100 trees at this stage of development, I simply would not be able to keep up and have a life. Patience would be easy, because you'd always be in a state of panic, because you are so far behind on bonsai tasks. So if you do build a collection of sticks in pots, remember, as they develop, they will require more time than you might expect. Plan on your bonsai collections to be dynamic, rather than static in their numbers. While your trees are young, you can amass a bunch of them without outstriping your ability to care for them. But as they develop, plan to continuously downsize your collection, re-homing, or composting the least developed as the better trees begin to demand more time. When you are pressed for time, it is time to evaluate, and discard the trees "that no longer bring you joy". Hopefully when your collection is a larger number of "sticks in pots" you will discover which species appeal to your sense of design. Which ones reward your work. Which ones grow well for you. For example, I've discovered I love azalea. I love cork bark JBP, and jack pines. I love persimmons. I have also discovered that boxwood, junipers, elms and a number of plain leafy green trees bore me. I have discovered that Japanese maples require more skill to cultivate than I am willing to invest. (I can keep them happy, but it is more work than I can keep up with). Trees that are susceptible to late spring frosts, trees that sprout a few weeks before our average last frost, simply don't do well for me. I refuse to do the "in and out dance", with trees to protect them from late frosts. This means Japanese maples die in my care, as they tend to leaf out about 2 to 3 weeks too early. These are things a larger collection of "sticks in pots" will teach you. The trick is to learn from this phase, and to downsize quickly when the time demands of the collection begin to increase.

A mature bonsai will require several 4 hour or more sessions per year of pruning, wiring, repotting, or other work. This is hard to appreciate if your experience so far is only a juniper from a shopping mall. Young trees need only a little pruning, then they need to grow. Intermediate trees, need serious attention to wiring and shaping, which if they have any size to them can mean hours of applying wire and getting their positions correct. Advanced trees need incredible amounts of detail work. Wire for the finest of branches, detail pruning of hundreds of branches, the detail required can be daunting.

To learn bonsai quickly, one needs a collection that is varied in levels of development as bonsai. It is not as important to have varied species, it is levels of development that is important. A few "sticks in pots", seedlings, and then one or two collected trees with some caliper to their trunks, so you are not having to wait for the trunks to grow. Then you need at least one or two trees in advanced stages of development. These last 2 can be expensive. But it is worth the investment. It is possible to barter either time or goods in exchange for good trees. Sometimes bonsai clubs hold estate sales to disperse a deceased members trees. Even better, sometimes a bonsai club member of a "certain age" will hold their estate sale before they are deceased. Here you can negotiate with the tree's owner, sometimes a bargain can be struck. Bonsai clubs, bonsai societies are still a really good resource when seeking out trees of advanced development. It is worth joining a club, and finding a mentor. The prices the bonsai professionals ask for advanced, developed trees are reasonable, even though they may take your breath away. If you figure $25 per hour for the time invested in training a tree, and $10 per hour for time in just the simple horticulture of a tree, many trees are bargains even with their hefty price tags.

So try to develop a collection of varied species, and of varied stages of development. Doing so will provide the most rapid way to learn all phased of bonsai. I did go off on a tangent. Originally just replying to the issue of patience. A varied collection with some advanced trees, will give you so much to do that you won't have time to need to practice patience.
 
The cure for impatience is to get more trees! The "correct size" collection of bonsai and pre-bonsai is to have enough trees that you have a hard time keeping up with all of them. If you are always a little behind on keeping up with bonsai tasks, then you will be able to leave a tree alone for a while without over-working it to death. I'm partly joking, partly serious. If you have a collection of 30 or 50 or even 100 sticks in pots, you then have a large enough group that you can let a few grow for a number of years without impatience. This works for a while. Young trees, the proverbial "sticks in pots" take very little work. Often you cut one or two branches, then leave them alone for one or two or even 3 years. Having the patience to do this for one lone "stick in a pot" is difficult. But if you have a larger bunch of them, it becomes much easier to let them grow, when they need to grow.

The downside of this approach is that as trees develop, they need more time and effort from their grower. It is hard to appreciate, until you have a mature bonsai of medium or large size. I have a jack pine that is "not ready" for its first show yet. It is large enough, with enough branches that just applying wire requires about 10 to 15 hours. I have to spread the work out over several days. Obviously if I had a collection of 100 trees at this stage of development, I simply would not be able to keep up and have a life. Patience would be easy, because you'd always be in a state of panic, because you are so far behind on bonsai tasks. So if you do build a collection of sticks in pots, remember, as they develop, they will require more time than you might expect. Plan on your bonsai collections to be dynamic, rather than static in their numbers. While your trees are young, you can amass a bunch of them without outstriping your ability to care for them. But as they develop, plan to continuously downsize your collection, re-homing, or composting the least developed as the better trees begin to demand more time. When you are pressed for time, it is time to evaluate, and discard the trees "that no longer bring you joy". Hopefully when your collection is a larger number of "sticks in pots" you will discover which species appeal to your sense of design. Which ones reward your work. Which ones grow well for you. For example, I've discovered I love azalea. I love cork bark JBP, and jack pines. I love persimmons. I have also discovered that boxwood, junipers, elms and a number of plain leafy green trees bore me. I have discovered that Japanese maples require more skill to cultivate than I am willing to invest. (I can keep them happy, but it is more work than I can keep up with). Trees that are susceptible to late spring frosts, trees that sprout a few weeks before our average last frost, simply don't do well for me. I refuse to do the "in and out dance", with trees to protect them from late frosts. This means Japanese maples die in my care, as they tend to leaf out about 2 to 3 weeks too early. These are things a larger collection of "sticks in pots" will teach you. The trick is to learn from this phase, and to downsize quickly when the time demands of the collection begin to increase.

A mature bonsai will require several 4 hour or more sessions per year of pruning, wiring, repotting, or other work. This is hard to appreciate if your experience so far is only a juniper from a shopping mall. Young trees need only a little pruning, then they need to grow. Intermediate trees, need serious attention to wiring and shaping, which if they have any size to them can mean hours of applying wire and getting their positions correct. Advanced trees need incredible amounts of detail work. Wire for the finest of branches, detail pruning of hundreds of branches, the detail required can be daunting.

To learn bonsai quickly, one needs a collection that is varied in levels of development as bonsai. It is not as important to have varied species, it is levels of development that is important. A few "sticks in pots", seedlings, and then one or two collected trees with some caliper to their trunks, so you are not having to wait for the trunks to grow. Then you need at least one or two trees in advanced stages of development. These last 2 can be expensive. But it is worth the investment. It is possible to barter either time or goods in exchange for good trees. Sometimes bonsai clubs hold estate sales to disperse a deceased members trees. Even better, sometimes a bonsai club member of a "certain age" will hold their estate sale before they are deceased. Here you can negotiate with the tree's owner, sometimes a bargain can be struck. Bonsai clubs, bonsai societies are still a really good resource when seeking out trees of advanced development. It is worth joining a club, and finding a mentor. The prices the bonsai professionals ask for advanced, developed trees are reasonable, even though they may take your breath away. If you figure $25 per hour for the time invested in training a tree, and $10 per hour for time in just the simple horticulture of a tree, many trees are bargains even with their hefty price tags.

So try to develop a collection of varied species, and of varied stages of development. Doing so will provide the most rapid way to learn all phased of bonsai. I did go off on a tangent. Originally just replying to the issue of patience. A varied collection with some advanced trees, will give you so much to do that you won't have time to need to practice patience.

I LOVE this post, thanks very much for imparting your wisdom, think you make an overall extremely valuable point.

I've tried to do this, in a fashion - I've tried to get a good amount of plants to work on, and try several different species. So far I have: 2 field maples, 2 JMs (one to put in barrel not for bonsai purposes), 3 potentilla, berberis, azalea, Cork bark elm, juniper old gold, Arctic birch, hibiscus, fuchsia, weigela, spirea, corkscrew Hazel and prunus incisa.

Aquired a lot in a short space of time, partly because of lockdown but mainly to feed my impatience! I'm finding I've got a good amount now - not too much work but enough to allow me to not smother them!

I'd say only the one potentilla (in the lovely pot at the top of the shelf) would be classed as bonsai at present. Oh and the s shaped elm, but I don't really count that 😂 I do love it for what it is though - my first and it started my love for this hobby!

The rest are either sticks or need a lot of develoing, which I'm happy about really. I though about buying a really nice bonsai to just maintain, but right now I'm more than happy learning to develop my own, even though most may not ever amount to anything presentable!

I've learned that I really love potentilla and maples, particularly field maples, even though mine aren't much yet! I'd love to try a trident, finding a decent piece of material that isn't hugely expensive is proving tricky though! Also enjoying the azalea for the contest, don't know much about them yet though 😂

Here's my collection so far!
 

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The cure for impatience is to get more trees! The "correct size" collection of bonsai and pre-bonsai is to have enough trees that you have a hard time keeping up with all of them. If you are always a little behind on keeping up with bonsai tasks, then you will be able to leave a tree alone for a while without over-working it to death. I'm partly joking, partly serious. If you have a collection of 30 or 50 or even 100 sticks in pots, you then have a large enough group that you can let a few grow for a number of years without impatience. This works for a while. Young trees, the proverbial "sticks in pots" take very little work. Often you cut one or two branches, then leave them alone for one or two or even 3 years. Having the patience to do this for one lone "stick in a pot" is difficult. But if you have a larger bunch of them, it becomes much easier to let them grow, when they need to grow.

The downside of this approach is that as trees develop, they need more time and effort from their grower. It is hard to appreciate, until you have a mature bonsai of medium or large size. I have a jack pine that is "not ready" for its first show yet. It is large enough, with enough branches that just applying wire requires about 10 to 15 hours. I have to spread the work out over several days. Obviously if I had a collection of 100 trees at this stage of development, I simply would not be able to keep up and have a life. Patience would be easy, because you'd always be in a state of panic, because you are so far behind on bonsai tasks. So if you do build a collection of sticks in pots, remember, as they develop, they will require more time than you might expect. Plan on your bonsai collections to be dynamic, rather than static in their numbers. While your trees are young, you can amass a bunch of them without outstriping your ability to care for them. But as they develop, plan to continuously downsize your collection, re-homing, or composting the least developed as the better trees begin to demand more time. When you are pressed for time, it is time to evaluate, and discard the trees "that no longer bring you joy". Hopefully when your collection is a larger number of "sticks in pots" you will discover which species appeal to your sense of design. Which ones reward your work. Which ones grow well for you. For example, I've discovered I love azalea. I love cork bark JBP, and jack pines. I love persimmons. I have also discovered that boxwood, junipers, elms and a number of plain leafy green trees bore me. I have discovered that Japanese maples require more skill to cultivate than I am willing to invest. (I can keep them happy, but it is more work than I can keep up with). Trees that are susceptible to late spring frosts, trees that sprout a few weeks before our average last frost, simply don't do well for me. I refuse to do the "in and out dance", with trees to protect them from late frosts. This means Japanese maples die in my care, as they tend to leaf out about 2 to 3 weeks too early. These are things a larger collection of "sticks in pots" will teach you. The trick is to learn from this phase, and to downsize quickly when the time demands of the collection begin to increase.

A mature bonsai will require several 4 hour or more sessions per year of pruning, wiring, repotting, or other work. This is hard to appreciate if your experience so far is only a juniper from a shopping mall. Young trees need only a little pruning, then they need to grow. Intermediate trees, need serious attention to wiring and shaping, which if they have any size to them can mean hours of applying wire and getting their positions correct. Advanced trees need incredible amounts of detail work. Wire for the finest of branches, detail pruning of hundreds of branches, the detail required can be daunting.

To learn bonsai quickly, one needs a collection that is varied in levels of development as bonsai. It is not as important to have varied species, it is levels of development that is important. A few "sticks in pots", seedlings, and then one or two collected trees with some caliper to their trunks, so you are not having to wait for the trunks to grow. Then you need at least one or two trees in advanced stages of development. These last 2 can be expensive. But it is worth the investment. It is possible to barter either time or goods in exchange for good trees. Sometimes bonsai clubs hold estate sales to disperse a deceased members trees. Even better, sometimes a bonsai club member of a "certain age" will hold their estate sale before they are deceased. Here you can negotiate with the tree's owner, sometimes a bargain can be struck. Bonsai clubs, bonsai societies are still a really good resource when seeking out trees of advanced development. It is worth joining a club, and finding a mentor. The prices the bonsai professionals ask for advanced, developed trees are reasonable, even though they may take your breath away. If you figure $25 per hour for the time invested in training a tree, and $10 per hour for time in just the simple horticulture of a tree, many trees are bargains even with their hefty price tags.

So try to develop a collection of varied species, and of varied stages of development. Doing so will provide the most rapid way to learn all phased of bonsai. I did go off on a tangent. Originally just replying to the issue of patience. A varied collection with some advanced trees, will give you so much to do that you won't have time to need to practice patience.
Thank you so much Leo for a post full of invaluable knowledge and info gained through years of experience!
William
 
Got a few years invested in some of these and made the Dawn Redwood Forest last year. Still very much a newbie.
 

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