Neglected Massive Azalea in Bank Parking lot

[sketchylemons]

Hi everyone,

I couldn't help but notice this massive azalea on this bank property in my town. It is quite neglected but I guess that's how these things prosper. I'm pretty sure it's a hino crimson variety. I have a couple questions.
1. How would you approach them about taking it off their hands? As far as I know, it's a drive through bank so there's people that work there that could care less about what tree is where. What and how would you guys ask them or if you have found yourself in the same scenario, how did it play out for you? There's nothing good at the nurseries and this is at least a 20+ year head start.
2. When would be the best time to dig out? My landscaper friend said the best time would be after the first big freeze when the roots go dormant. I assume it would be relatively easy to dig out since azaleas have small, fibrous roots.
3. What should I transfer it into? The ground or container? I have a large wooden container box. If I were to go that route, what substrate should I use? I don't have enough Kanuma to realistically fill a large container. If I were to replant it somewhere, how would I prepare the soil area before hand? I planted a bunch of hino crimson azaleas in my front yard which has bark type soil and they are doing great.
4. Is this even viable to do? I've had some people tell me I'd just kill it but I desperately want a large azalea in my collection without spending thousands on some satsuki import. I'm going to Japan in January so I may pick one up while I'm there, perhaps a northern variety. If I can successfully obtain this one, I'm tempted to take that confidence and go around town asking people for their azaleas to add to my collection since I know of a couple other azaleas in my area that have old hardwood with great nebari and form.

Let me know what you guys think. I will worry about styling once I have it in my possession.

 

[crab apple]

I doubt anyone that works there has the authority to give that away. You may have to to a bank job and hold the place up.

 

[Joelshack2362]

I don't think their insurance company will Iike the idea much. But that is a very nice potential for a great looking tree. Best of luck!

Edit: Also if you do get permission to dig I would definitely have the utilities located just incase anything is under the root ball or around the digging area.

 

[Desert O'Piñon]

I would contact the manager of the branch first. That person would at least have the information for whomever has the authority to give you permission. But start with a detailed plan, to ensure them that you will be safe (as @Joelshack2362 mentioned to locate any utilities) and assure them that you will completely backfill the hole and mark off the area while work is being performed. Maybe even include safety gear (hard hat, gloves, safety glasses, and safety vest, for example) in your plan so they know you are serious about protecting yourself (and their liability interests). Is it overkill? Probably. But how far are you willing to go to get a prime specimen like this?
Actually, you might even offer to replace it with a (much less valuable, but they don't need to know that little detail) new shrub that is fuller and more vigorous looking, but you can get one much cheaper at a nursery or even big box store.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Hi everyone,

I couldn't help but notice this massive azalea on this bank property in my town. It is quite neglected but I guess that's how these things prosper. I'm pretty sure it's a hino crimson variety. I have a couple questions.
1. How would you approach them about taking it off their hands? As far as I know, it's a drive through bank so there's people that work there that could care less about what tree is where. What and how would you guys ask them or if you have found yourself in the same scenario, how did it play out for you? There's nothing good at the nurseries and this is at least a 20+ year head start.

Looks like folks have already given some great ideas. Often bank units out here lease their property, so one might need to contact them. Looks like it from the shape the plants is in.

2. When would be the best time to dig out? My landscaper friend said the best time would be after the first big freeze when the roots go dormant. I assume it would be relatively easy to dig out since azaleas have small, fibrous roots.

Timing for digging azalea can be pretty broad. Summer isn’t optional.

imho The very best time to dig an azalea in this situation and get the very strongest and a whole year response is after winter is just about complete. There are variations. Your location and USDA Plant Cold Hardiness Zone aren’t listed, so it’s hard to give more information.

3. What should I transfer it into? The ground or container? I have a large wooden container box. If I were to go that route, what substrate should I use? I don't have enough Kanuma to realistically fill a large container. If I were to replant it somewhere, how would I prepare the soil area before hand? I planted a bunch of hino crimson azaleas in my front yard which has bark type soil and they are doing great.

Into the ground.

Normally these landscape azaleas are cut into multiple different trees, but in this case, from the images shown, it looks to be a one and done at least to start.

Honestly this is a cut down/back with at least one or more air layers involved… as it looks from the images there is more than one azalea to be made out of this yardadory. To do this, it seems it would be best to lift the entire kit and kaboodle out of the soil. That would mean to trench around the periphery of the roots, go down about about 8-10” and take a flat shovel and under cut the root ball. Highly likely a lot of the soil will fall off… which is good.

By this point one should assess the tree and decide what parts to keep and not. However I won’t cut off the extra trunks… but air layer these early the following spring ‘26. When in doubt prune back leaving green growth on the end of each cut. Saw or prune to make clean cuts. If you are in an area where the temps heat quick would recommend sealing the cuts.

Bag the rootball, bare rooted or not. Then transport to the new site and water wash the remaining soil off the root.

The new site should have either morning sun or filtered sunlight. Avoid full or afternoon sun the first year.

Through some experimenting we’ve found in our location the best way to reestablish azalea yardadory is to loosen the 6-8” dirt on the new site to ensure the water will penetrate. Then bring in bags of small-medium bark (fir is good)/composted manure at a ratio of somewhere about 90/10ish.

Next create a 4” build up on top of the site where the roots will reside. Mix in with the native soil lightly. Put in the azalea and stake it up so it doesn’t move. Finally cover the roots 2-3” with the media mix and slowly, yet thoroughly, water the root ball. Add more media over the spring to keep at least 1 1/2-2” of bark on the roots as the bark will settle over time.

4. Is this even viable to do? I've had some people tell me I'd just kill it but I desperately want a large azalea in my collection without spending thousands on some satsuki import.

Yes, definitely!

I'm going to Japan in January so I may pick one up while I'm there, perhaps a northern variety. If I can successfully obtain this one, I'm tempted to take that confidence and go around town asking people for their azaleas to add to my collection since I know of a couple other azaleas in my area that have old hardwood with great nebari and form.

Doubt one can pick up azaleas in Japan and just ship them home unless pre quarantined . It takes a bare root quarantine period of about a year and an import license. The shops in Japan that specialize in this can help you. But only a few advertise this service. However you might need a stateside middle person to handle things on this side of the pond.

Let me know what you guys think. I will worry about styling once I have it in my possession.

Would worry about planning on styling the tree after a healthy and robust response during an entire growing year.

We have a couple other folks here that are also very experienced in these matters. The most experienced is @Shibui He actually created a thread on azalea yardadory. A frequent advisor in these matters likely he’ll also weigh in.

(Please enter your data as requested above in the near future?)

Cheers and Happy Holidays.
DSD sends

 

[The Barber]

I'm guessing they will require someone with insurance to do any landscaping. That being said, they may have a contract with a landscaper, whom may do some work if you pay them, and perhaps pay for a replacement tree. As stated above, branch manager is where I would also start. Also never hurts to ask.

 

[Shibui]

Personally I disagree with the landscaper suggestion of dig after first freeze. Azaleas seem to transplant better when they are actively growing. You will see most recommendations for repotting azalea bonsai as 'after flowering' which translates to mid-late spring or early summer. I've personally transplanted azaleas almost every month of the year successfully but you need to note that we do not have cold winters here.
Old landscape azaleas can be a great source of ready made bonsai material but not all are easily converted. I've only kept 3 of the 20 or 30 that I've collected. Te others having less potential or too time consuming to be worth going on with.
I've found azaleas very hardy and survive transplant quite well, even with massive root reduction and massive top cut back and it is not necessary to keep field soil around the roots. Personally find it's better to loosen and remove as much as will easily dislodge.
Ground or pot depends how well you can look after it. It's not whether one is better than the other. but more about how well you can manage to look after it. If you can maintain appropriate watering in the ground that's good but I tend to forget to water often enough and lose transplants that go straight into the ground. Pots are better for me because I routinely water the pots each day so I know they won't dry out while the new roots get established. What works for me may not always be the same for anyone else.
If you decide on a container be aware that transplant root balls are inevitably much larger than you estimated so you will need to have larger containers on hand.
Whatever time and effort you are estimating it will take to dig and move you need to double - at least. We always underestimate how hard the soil is, how tough the roots are and how difficult it will be to cut all the roots going down under the trunk.
Your transplant will also weigh much more than you guessed. You will need some way to hoist it out of the hole then move it to the vehicle and lift it in. Hard to guess how big this one actually is but probably a 2 person job at least.

Is this even viable to do? I've had some people tell me I'd just kill it but I desperately want a large azalea in my collection without spending thousands on some satsuki import.

From a survival point of view it's no real problem but I'm not sure this particular plant will give you a good azalea bonsai in under 20 years. The nebari and lower trunk looks very good but then it divides into 3 massive branches with only a few smaller branches growing close to the main trunk. At some stage you'll need to make some massive chops and I suspect it will take many years after that to regrow small branches to create branch pads and canopy. Without some very creative styling those big chopped branches will be a visual eyesore for many, many years IMHO.

I'd take it if you can get it with little cost but keep looking for other options that might be easier to convert.

 

[rockm]

FWIW, this specimen really isn't worth the considerable effort it will take to get it out of the ground. The trunk is just big and nothing more, no taper, no grace nothing really notable about it.

It's awkward and will have huge scarring that will likely die back from the borders. Sorry, but this is a white elephant. Stop obsessing.

 

[rockm]

Looks like folks have already given some great ideas. Often bank units out here lease their property, so one might need to contact them. Looks like it from the shape the plants is in.

Timing for digging azalea can be pretty broad. Summer isn’t optional.

imho The very best time to dig an azalea in this situation and get the very strongest and a whole year response is after winter is just about complete. There are variations. Your location and USDA Plant Cold Hardiness Zone aren’t listed, so it’s hard to give more information.

Into the ground.

Normally these landscape azaleas are cut into multiple different trees, but in this case, from the images shown, it looks to be a one and done at least to start.

Honestly this is a cut down/back with at least one or more air layers involved… as it looks from the images there is more than one azalea to be made out of this yardadory. To do this, it seems it would be best to lift the entire kit and kaboodle out of the soil. That would mean to trench around the periphery of the roots, go down about about 8-10” and take a flat shovel and under cut the root ball. Highly likely a lot of the soil will fall off… which is good.

By this point one should assess the tree and decide what parts to keep and not. However I won’t cut off the extra trunks… but air layer these early the following spring ‘26. When in doubt prune back leaving green growth on the end of each cut. Saw or prune to make clean cuts. If you are in an area where the temps heat quick would recommend sealing the cuts.

Bag the rootball, bare rooted or not. Then transport to the new site and water wash the remaining soil off the root.

The new site should have either morning sun or filtered sunlight. Avoid full or afternoon sun the first year.

Through some experimenting we’ve found in our location the best way to reestablish azalea yardadory is to loosen the 6-8” dirt on the new site to ensure the water will penetrate. Then bring in bags of small-medium bark (fir is good)/composted manure at a ratio of somewhere about 90/10ish.

Next create a 4” build up on top of the site where the roots will reside. Mix in with the native soil lightly. Put in the azalea and stake it up so it doesn’t move. Finally cover the roots 2-3” with the media mix and slowly, yet thoroughly, water the root ball. Add more media over the spring to keep at least 1 1/2-2” of bark on the roots as the bark will settle over time.


Yes, definitely!

Doubt one can pick up azaleas in Japan and just ship them home unless pre quarantined . It takes a bare root quarantine period of about a year and an import license. The shops in Japan that specialize in this can help you. But only a few advertise this service. However you might need a stateside middle person to handle things on this side of the pond.


Would worry about planning on styling the tree after a healthy and robust response during an entire growing year.

We have a couple other folks here that are also very experienced in these matters. The most experienced is @Shibui He actually created a thread on azalea yardadory. A frequent advisor in these matters likely he’ll also weigh in.

(Please enter your data as requested above in the near future?)

Cheers and Happy Holidays.
DSD sends

You can get azaleas drop shipped Directly to the U.S. from a quarantine facility in Japan. I can’t remember the name of the site but it’s been discussed here before. Place an order their site and the plant is shipped to you in days. The two year quarantine requirement is fulfilled at a facility in Japan and the plant is put on the market after that period to enable “immediate” shipment. One of those is vastly superior in quality to this. Of course it comes with a big price tag. But this one comes with a substantial debt in development that will take a decade or more to do before it makes it into a bonsai pot. …

 

[Paradox]

I agree with the comments from @rockm
I dont think this azalea is worth the effort

Also as someone else stated, importing a tree from Japan has a lot of requirements
Might be best to deal with someone in the United States that has already gone through the requirements to import trees and has trees ready for sale
There are several sellers that have done the work required

 

[rockm]

One last thing. This may not be a satsuki variety. The extra expense of a satsuki vs a “regular” landscape azalea would be hard to justify for a landscaper. Not a huge deal but if your after a satsuki you may be barking up the wrong tree. Many landscape azaleas have small flowers.

 

[Glaucus]

If an azalea is a satsuki or not is mostly relevant for the type of flowers, or the timing of the flowering. This looks like some kurume or obtusum heavy in R.kiusuanum.
Which actually gives better bark than the supersmooth trunks of many satsuki.

That said, this plant is huge. And 3 branches with very little taper. It is also not in optimal health. If you have an ambitious vision for this plant that justifies it's age, that could involve 10 years of nursing and developing it back to health and curing big cuts you may make. Followed by 5 more years to actually style it. With 5 to 10 extra years if things don't work out as planned.
In the end, you will always have to leverage it's size as a quality. If you want a nicely tapered satsuki that you can lift with one hand, this thing is the opposite.
Buying pricy trees from Japan means they are almost instantly presentable as bonsai.

If you can get/buy this tree, you should put it in peat with perlite or bark or lava or kanuma for at least 3 years and see how much you can get it to grow. It will be very hard to cut 1 of these 3 main branches, as those would create wounds that would need 3 decades to heal. You would dig it up and transplant late winter, so it can start to grow immediately after. As azaleas have shallow roots, they are not too difficult to dig up.

I don't think the risk of killing it is all to great. Azaleas this age need to be dug up to allow them to rejuvenate. This thing is just a lot of work. I can't fully get a sense of the size, but this thing seems huge.
If you prune it all the way back to almost nothing, then indeed it may die. But if it does not, you will have to try very hard to hide those huge scars you will get.

As for the bank manager, if you are crazy enough to buy this from them, they could get a much nicer and neater azalea flower display buying a bunch of new nursery azaleas and planting them back in this plot. They just need money to amend the soil, but some new azaleas, and not forget to water them in the summer after plating them there. It would look neater and more well-kept than this monstrosity.

 

[Mike Westervelt]

Here is the site @rockm is referring to I believe pretty good prices

Satsuki Azalea Bonsai from Japan

Satsuki-Bonsai.com : - Over 70 cm 45-70 cm Under 45 cm **Sold out** Satsuki, Azalea, Bonsai

satsuki-bonsai.com

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

Azalea in Bank​

Isn't that that singer?