My First Forest Setting. Acer Rubrum

Jetson1950

Shohin
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Location
Central Florida
USDA Zone
9b
This will be my first attempt at making a forest bonsai. Still being a newbie and not even up to the rank of bonsai amateur yet, I’m probably making as many mistakes as I can so I can learn faster. Time will tell if these little guys can survive my tinkering. Some might say I’m doing this a bit early since technically we are still in winter, but I think they will be fine since they are all dormant. Plus, things tend to start their spring push early here with our warmer climate.

I’m starting with 13 red maples I’ve collected over the last year. These are probably all three year old saplings. All of them came from the central Florida area, so they are well acclimated to our climate here. The tallest one in the forest will be 17” tall with all the others reduced in height to different levels. The soil mix I’m using will be the soil they have been growing in for the last year. It’s a combination of small size lava rock, pumus and akadama and pine fines. It mostly lava rock. The pot is a 17” oval about 2.5” deep. The center section is granite rock and fines to try and simulate a creek/stream in the forest. The chop stick lattice is to wire the saplings into place. I’ll use 1.5 mm wire.

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Here are all the saplings with most of the soil mix removed. I’ll trim each one as I put them in the setting. They all have good lateral root structure so I’ll try to set them in a way to take advantage of the near surface roots. As they grow, it may look like solid surface roots for each group.

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Left side complete. It has seven trees in it. I’ve wired the roots into the base lattice and then used 1 mm wire to connect the tops so they are all straight up, or at least close to straight up and aligned with each other. Once they have settled and the roots get a firmer grip I’ll be able to remove the top wires. I did a lot of reading on how to arrange the different heights, but found out it’s a little tougher when you’re trying to squeeze all those roots into a small space. Figure I can trim them into a logical looking setting once they start growing.

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Right side complete. six trees on this side. Same with wiring the tops so they stand straight. I used small granite rocks and fines to fill in my “creek” to complete the look of trees on both sides of a small stream.

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Last thing to do was put my forest floor covering. I used a few different types of moss I had in a lot of my pots.

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A little cleaning up and a lite watering. It will stay in a shaded area on my porch so it can get settled in.

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Project complete. Now just have to wait and see if they all decide to grow. They all have good looking buds so hopefully everyone will start leafing out come spring. Lmk what you think and if there are things I could have done better. This is my practice forest. I’m looking around for a nice slate slab to make me a bigger one. I’ve go about 30 red maple saplings still in small pots.
 
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That's going to be beautiful once it has leaves and begins some branching. I love the path (or creek), and I'm glad you didn't do it perpendicular to the front. I look forward to seeing it leaf out!
 
That's going to be beautiful once it has leaves and begins some branching. I love the path (or creek), and I'm glad you didn't do it perpendicular to the front. I look forward to seeing it leaf out!
Thanks! So far, the only thing I wished I had put a little more thought into was the left side trees. I think I may have gotten that side a little too symmetrical. Hopefully, once it starts growing leaves and branches it won’t look that way.
 
Good start!

You should really check out some blog posts from @William N. Valavanis on forest creation. A lot of the old International Bonsai magazines have some great reads on the same subject. @Deep Sea Diver also shared with me a collection of info a while back. Maybe DSD would be kind enough to share with you as Weill if you so choose!
 
Great first effort.
Some pointers you might choose to consider:
Perspective: Normally we see things in the distance as smaller than closer objects of the same size. In bonsai we use 'forced perspective' to give the viewer an impression of greater distance. If your stream was narrower at the back and wider toward the front of the pot viewers would 'see' a stream heading off into the distance.
Same for tree trunks. Thicker and taller trunks near the front gives the impression of being close to larger trees. Thinner, shorter trunks at the rear reinforce the impression of greater distance. Better groups are assembled from trunks of different ages. You might consider getting a few new new trunks next year. Either find a couple of thicker ones to add or just add some new smaller saplings each year until you have the desired range of trunk thickness.

Seeing straight through to the back leaves little to the imagination. Viewers tend to move on quickly because they have seen it all in one glance. Curving the stream around behind the rear trees allows the viewer to stop and look.

Straight lines: Natural trees rarely occur in straight lines or at regular spacing but our natural instinct is to place things in rows at regular spacing. One of the hardest things in Forest planting is to get irregular spacing and random placement. Even after 30 years I often need to rearrange trunks after initial placement to get better random spacing and lines.
 
Great first effort.
Some pointers you might choose to consider:
Perspective: Normally we see things in the distance as smaller than closer objects of the same size. In bonsai we use 'forced perspective' to give the viewer an impression of greater distance. If your stream was narrower at the back and wider toward the front of the pot viewers would 'see' a stream heading off into the distance.
Same for tree trunks. Thicker and taller trunks near the front gives the impression of being close to larger trees. Thinner, shorter trunks at the rear reinforce the impression of greater distance. Better groups are assembled from trunks of different ages. You might consider getting a few new new trunks next year. Either find a couple of thicker ones to add or just add some new smaller saplings each year until you have the desired range of trunk thickness.

Seeing straight through to the back leaves little to the imagination. Viewers tend to move on quickly because they have seen it all in one glance. Curving the stream around behind the rear trees allows the viewer to stop and look.

Straight lines: Natural trees rarely occur in straight lines or at regular spacing but our natural instinct is to place things in rows at regular spacing. One of the hardest things in Forest planting is to get irregular spacing and random placement. Even after 30 years I often need to rearrange trunks after initial placement to get better random spacing and lines.
Thanks Shibui. All great comments and perspective. I think I can actually incorporate a lot of your comments and thoughts into the scene. I’ve got a lot of red maple seedlings to work with a the way down to 3-4” tall. The trees I have in it now are all very close in thickness so easy to adjust which are tallest. Planting more little trees, narrow the stream in the distance and make it snake through the trees will be easy. I can even plant a few leaning trees.
 
One thing you could do to make trees of different size is train for a few years in different size pots. It's amazing just how different trees will grow in different size pots. From say 2 or 4" all the way up to ground. In 3 years time it's amazing. Then you have trees of different sizes, but the same age. The other thing is using cuttings for uniformity.
 
From the great comments I decided to make a couple of adjustments to the forest. My stream seemed out of proportion so I narrowed it down and made a few turns in it. I really couldn’t give it a lot of depth look front to back in 7”, so I added seven more smaller trees in the turns to try and give it depth. Once the trees leaf out, you won’t be able to see the far end of the creek without moving to another viewing point or see it under the tree lower canopy. I also let a couple of the smaller trees lean a bit so everything is not perfectly straight up. That was hard on my brain. My brain loves symmetry vs a lot of entropy. When it comes to looking at a forest or a beautiful orchard I would pick the orchard every time. Forest now has 20 trees in it. I’m thinking at the end of next year I’ll need a bigger pot.

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Finding balance in asymmetry is about visual speed and weight. Finding perfection in imperfection is what keeps it interesting and what makes each grouping and each forest unique.
 
I would select one tree as your main trunk, I don’t think it matters much at this point which one, but have it be off center and slightly forward of center, then prune all of the other large trees in a rough tringular pattern to that one as the peak, then let everything grow for a few seasons, that should help you establish one or two trees a bit thicker as well!
 
I would select one tree as your main trunk, I don’t think it matters much at this point which one, but have it be off center and slightly forward of center, then prune all of the other large trees in a rough tringular pattern to that one as the peak, then let everything grow for a few seasons, that should help you establish one or two trees a bit thicker as well!
With two sides in the forest (each side of the creek) should I consider two peaks or Maybe have a sub triangle on the non dominate side just a bit lower than the dominate side?
 
With two sides in the forest (each side of the creek) should I consider two peaks or Maybe have a sub triangle on the non dominate side just a bit lower than the dominate side?
I just happened to see this video released today by Nigel Saunders. He goes into the same things discussed here.

His forest also has a path between two sections. He pruned the whole thing into a single peak centered over the larger side, rather than having two peaks. I'm not sure if that's a standard guideline in bonsai or just his personal artistic choice.

One more quick note: He also pruned into a peak when viewed from the side, so that's another thing to think about.

 
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