My first and only JBP in central Texas

My crabapple literally THRIVED all last summer in pond basket with pumice.
Stayed cool as I could water all day if I wanted to and it simply ran out on all sides. Cooling the whole shebang.

2019 crabapple.jpg

Now it's happy in a pot.

crab full bloom.JPG
 
Austin isn't much different than Dallas in the summer heat where I'm located and as you can see these guys are in colanders / pond baskets all year long in whatever the temps might be in mid July and August too. The only problem is they will need watering up to 2-3 times a day so if you're at work all day and have no one to do that for you then you might want to do whatever you feel you need to maintain the health of the tree. :cool: jbp51.jpg
 
It is the parts under the ground that are performing the duties of roots so as long as there's enough roots in the pot I think it would be fin
The key factor is the needles, I would upsize the container and increase the depth of planting to ensure healthy conditions for the feeder roots that may exist. This also allows more sun exposure and less frequent watering. Safer conditions to support healthy growth. The exposed roots will not deteriorate from this treatment but it will give a healthier environment for the tree! Such a tiny pot in such a hot climate, I doubt very much it would be fine. Unless of course it is tended several times a day, even then the size of the pot would barely support a healthy root mass in the crevices between the soil mix.
 
5067F351-E3CD-4EDC-9BB0-881BE8E79469.jpegD0FB5D26-DF94-49C2-BF9F-801A734C0707.jpegOn to my actual black pine. I think this tree is 4-5yo. I’m curious if I should chop some of the branches in the cluster pictured or if I should leave it be.
 
@Mame-Mo
Nice, it has grown, looks healthy.
Don’t count out my ignorance just yet. I plucked a ton of needles in late spring that I probably shouldn’t have, but I am happy to see it starting to come into itself. I do not research red pines very much but I have heard they are less vigorous than pines. Do you know if that’s true? My black pine seems to surprise me year over year but this one seems much slower and I’m not sure it that’s due to it’s initial condition or if it is due to the species.
 
Was it Howard and/or Sylvia Smith? They’re excellent at growing JBP just going over old comments. A few months after this Sylvia did a presentation at our club. I would love to take a class with them sometime. I didn’t understand as much as I would have liked to at the time, but looking back some of the things she said about what makes pines ideal ring so true. They are dependable, and they behave in relatively a predictable fashion, they also seem to do well in our climate.
 
View attachment 372474View attachment 372475On to my actual black pine. I think this tree is 4-5yo. I’m curious if I should chop some of the branches in the cluster pictured or if I should leave it be.
Are you happy with the thickness of the trunk? Why did you chop the sacrifice off so early?
 
Are you happy with the thickness of the trunk? Why did you chop the sacrifice off so early?
In retrospect I should have kept it for a few more years, but at the time I was more concerned about the stability of the tree in the pot. With the sacrifice branch it was more susceptible to being blown over. I also figured I can always just let a new runner be the sacrifice in the future, or at least that’s what I was thinking. That said this is going to be a relatively small tree regardless.
 
Even small trees need some thickening. There are loads of ways to stabilise a free with a tall sacrifice, letting the wind be your deciding factor is a bit drastic. Starting another sacrifice from another branch is going to add years to the development.
 
Don’t count out my ignorance just yet. I plucked a ton of needles in late spring that I probably shouldn’t have, but I am happy to see it starting to come into itself. I do not research red pines very much but I have heard they are less vigorous than pines. Do you know if that’s true? My black pine seems to surprise me year over year but this one seems much slower and I’m not sure it that’s due to it’s initial condition or if it is due to the species.

I don't know, I've never grown JRP. I'm far enough north that JBP are not vigorous. JBP & JRP are better suited to areas with warm summers with more than 130 day growing season.

About whorls, some of my pines will have whorls of 5 to 8 branches, sometimes more. These whorled should be reduced to no more than 3 branches. Until you are ready to restyle, keeping 3 branches at a whorl leaves design choices, without much danger of forming knots or bulges. Eventually you will want to reduce to the trunk and a single branch. But you can initially reduce to 3 branches and a trunk, especially if 2 of the 3 are the smallest of the options in the whorl. Then a year or two later you can reduce it to just the trunk and a single branch.
 
On JBP and JRP better to reduce to two branches on each whorl as long as they are not opposite. This allows some choice but does not create issues with developing trunk. Be Sure to keep in ming 360 degree development of design when reducing branches at whorls on pines.
 
Had some die back on the top of my exposed root last year, but the tree is still chugging along and getting stronger every year. Sylvia Smith suggested covering the roots and putting them in something inert, which I finally did this year. Anyways, I’m still not 100% certain what species it is. I added a photo of the extending candles to see if anyone could help me identify.
 

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